http://www.evanscooling.com/ (http://www.evanscooling.com/)
Waterless Coolant for:
Heavy Duty Vehicles, Generators, Agricultural Vehicles etc...
Boiling Point: Above 375°F
Antifreeze Properties: Protects below -40°C
Benefits: Reduces Downtime, Improves Combustion, Prevents Boil-Over, Avoids cavitation erosion
Corrosive Properties: Eliminates corrosion and electrolysis
Life Span: Protects for life of the engine
Toxicity: Reduced Toxicity
Benefits Over Water-Based Coolants: Eliminates Overheating
Evans Waterless Coolants have a boiling point above 375°F and will not vaporize, thus eliminating overheating, boil-over and after-boil.
Reduces Pressure: Evans Waterless Coolants generate very low vapor pressures reducing stress on engine cooling system components.
Prevents Corrosion: Evans Waterless Coolants contain no oxygen effectively eliminating corrosion.
Increases BHP
Evans Waterless Coolants eliminate pre-ignition and detonation caused by overheating - thus improving combustion efficiency and delivering more power.
Stops Erosion: Evans Waterless Coolants prevent cavitation and eliminate liner and cooling pump erosion.
Freeze Protection: Evans Waterless Coolants freeze below -40ºF
Less Toxic: Evans Waterless Coolants are Less Toxic. Standard anti-freeze is toxic and known to kill pets.
I actually have a case of it in my shop, my race car customer bought it but I won't use it. It's about $50 a gallon. I won't use it because you can't mix it with water at all, so if you need to just top up you need to carry spare coolant. No comment on how it might work, the guy that sold it to him thought it was elixir of youth...
Brian
My question is if it is so good as claimed why aren't the engine manufacturers all specifying its use?
Ya, I saw the price tag. I just figure that for bus guys price is no object. :)
Absolute WARNING!!
DO NOT use Evans antifreeze. Personal experience: 350 hp Porsche, front engine car, on a race track. My best friend was driving this car. Like most 928s, this car had over heating problems on the track in warm weather, so my friend switched to the Evans product in an effort to solve the problem.
While at 100 plus MPH, the heater control valve split spilling Evans coolant onto the exhaust manifold. The result was a fireball. Thank goodness my friend had Nomex suit, shoes, gloves and head sock. He narrowly escaped. The car was fully engulfed in flames in mere seconds at over 100 MPH. I witnessed this from behind his car, one of the scariest moments of my life.
On the track it's a controlled environment with firetrucks and EMTs only seconds away, and most drivers are aware of the dangers and (hopefully) practice emergency egress.
On a bus, the entire rear could be in flames in seconds, the driver would have almost no time to react. Imagine 25 gallons of that stuff spraying onto a hot turbo.
To me it sounds like bells and whistles one may or may not need. Yikes! Very expensive indeed. We were taught that plain good distilled or very clean water cools the best but you may need that anti corrosion additive if you have some mixed metals in the cooling system.
A water pump lubricant additive is not needed. Water does not lube water pumps on modern stuff.
Also some sort of pH stabilizer comes to mind. Combustion products over time are very acid like and something usually is needed to raise the water pH to counteract such. A good sealed non leaking pressurized system is best. But ... what about very cold weather? Humm.
Since I was a Los Angeles CA boy, we just drained out the pure water when it got that cold.
HB of CJ (old coot) We usually remembered to put it back in. Mostly :)
Quote from: OneLapper on March 29, 2015, 10:20:04 AM
Absolute WARNING!!
spilling Evans coolant onto the exhaust manifold. The result was a fireball.
Yeah, but did it keep the engine cool?
Years ago Waukesha engine came up with Steam Cooling for their large engines, never heard of the final results, but the operating temps were in the 450f area, of course lots of ceramics used and new gasket materials. Anyone know how this turned out from about 30 yrs ago when I left that game.
Dave M
Quote from: Lin on March 29, 2015, 10:43:37 AM
Yeah, but did it keep the engine cool?
Um, yes, it did lower the on track temps about 10-20 degrees, which, all things considered, is a sizable amount. BUT.......... The BURNING CAR did exceed the 200 degree coolant temps.
OK, so Evans "coolant" (sic) may not always work exactly as intended, but how about WaterWetter? Wasn't it the Next Big Thing some years ago, but I haven't heard much about it recently. There's even a Diesel WaterWetter for larger diesels: http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=75&pcid=10 (http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=75&pcid=10)
Does anyone here use it, or is it just another flavor of snake oil?
John
Onelapper, I probably should have included the words, "Mrs Lincoln" at the end of my post.
Quote from: Iceni John on March 29, 2015, 04:52:15 PM
OK, so Evans "coolant" (sic) may not always work exactly as intended, but how about WaterWetter? Wasn't it the Next Big Thing some years ago, but I haven't heard much about it recently. There's even a Diesel WaterWetter for larger diesels: http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=75&pcid=10 (http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=75&pcid=10)
Does anyone here use it, or is it just another flavor of snake oil?
John
Water Wetter and distilled water is what most of the guys I know are using on their race cars / track cars. Most race tracks don't even allow regular antifreeze but it's rarely inforced.
I've always used dehydrated water in sealed cans:)
It is made for fallout shelters!
Royal Purple water wetter..and antifreeze spring water mix in bus..just spring water and wetter in race truck.. Good for about 20 degrees in 100+ weather..rdw