What is the best way to stop water from dripping through the drip rails where the sections but up against each other? I thought about bending a small piece of flashing to line the inside of the drip rail and secure it with gutter sealer and two rivets-- wonder if there is a better solution.
How about that spray stuff they spray on a screen door in a row boat.
it does work nice and is available in black, white, and clear. Just mask and use a couple of coats. I've seen it at Lowes and Wal-mart
I have use a product called Dicor from an RV shop. It is self levelling and comes in a caulking tube
Don't use the flex seal as advertized on tv, it is thin and runs on anything not flat, the "clear" stay's clear only for a short while then turns a mustard yellow.>>>Dan ???
I believe Rustoleum makes a version, Maybe it is better. Also, like paint, you may need several thin coats.I'm sure there are several things that will work well.If it is inside the drip rail, I'd spray some of it into the lid to set up some and dab it on with a cheap small artist type paint brush.
Those gaps in the drip rail are the ultimate torture test for sealants-- constant UV exposure, underwater, and significant thermal expansion and contraction.. on top of all that, no overlapping support.
Raymond- Thanks! I will try a little glob of Dicor inside the drip rail. The guy at the RV shop said Dicor and Eternabond are the two most used products for sealing RV roofs and drip rails. With proper prep work, you can't go wrong with either one.
cheesie- The reviews of Flex Seal on Amazon don't look good-- lots of rage and leaky gutters. :P The Rustoleum product reviews were a little better, but still hit or miss.
Also bathroom silicone caulking. Comes in a few shades.
How about a dab of 3m seem sealer on the bottom that way its not blocking the run.
great question as I have thought about the same on occasion, now the entrance door has had a bigger influence with me where I park that there im calling some gutter experts from on the tv ads!
hmm maybe
If it is steel can it be cleaned of any paint and soldered? ;D
Or JB weld? 8)
Dave- It is aluminum. I thought about TIG welding it at very low amps. I decided against it because it would make removal very difficult. I will try JB weld next.
First, I will see how long the blobs of Dicor last. I lightly scuffed the inside of the drip rail with an angle grinder so that the Dicor will have something to grip on to. I spread the blobs about 4" long, about 1/8" thick and contoured to the inside of the drip rail.
Quote from: brmax on November 22, 2014, 03:31:01 PMHow about a dab of 3m seem sealer on the bottom that way its not blocking the run. ...
Yeah, I think that this is important. *Any* place you make a puddle of water, you're eventually going to get a water leak there. All it takes is the slightest uphill or dam, and there's going to be standing water and that's going to cause trouble.
Trouble, Trouble Trouble, Right here in River City With ...................... sorry couldn't resist Bruce ;D
Bruce- You are right. However, there are sealers made for standing water and underwater use. The guy at the RV shop said Dicor will work in standing water. The tube doesn't say if it will or won't work. We will just have to see if it holds up.
Liquid EPDM sold on Amazon brags about not being affected by standing water or underwater use. I might try that if the Dicor doesn't last.
3m adhesive on the outside of the gutter is probably the best functional solution. The only reason I am avoiding it is, my gutters are shiny polished aluminum. I don't know sealant lines would look from the ground.
Urethane windshield adhesive as used in modern windshields is an excellent low cost caulk. it wont shrink, crack, harden or degrade in the sun. Its also paintable as long as you dust epoxy primer on it first. mask everything first and peel the tape quickly. I like to use 1.5 inch wide masking tape first set about 1/4 inch away from actual seam. then run a strip of 1/2 inch wide automotive 3M Fine Line auto body painters type tape. if you are using the 1.5 inch masking tape over a painted area rub the adhesive side on your clothing before applying so that you aren't ripping paint off. if its still hard to pull off when you are done warm it in the sun or use a heat gun. Would advise that you don't apply in hot weather or on a hot surface as you wont have much working time on something as large as a bus. wear gloves too and clean up the area with lacquer thinner when you are done. you can dab your finger in the lacquer thinner to smooth the freshly applied thinner. Its always worked great for me. Thanks.
I like Vulkem it will handle any expanding and shifting it is very tough, it dries grayish not sure about painting it if needed. I think it is much better than silicon caulk or anything like that.
http://www.amazon.com/Tremco-Vulkem-Polyurethane-Sealant-Caulk/dp/B000WTXMR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416767803&sr=8-1&keywords=vulkem+116 (http://www.amazon.com/Tremco-Vulkem-Polyurethane-Sealant-Caulk/dp/B000WTXMR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416767803&sr=8-1&keywords=vulkem+116)
Since nobody would see it you could use a strip of Gorilla tape inside the rail,....won't leak, won't create a water dam, and should last for several years at least.