Does anyone know of a replacement "tube type" fuel level sender that is 240-33 ohms? My Eagle fuel tanks have horizontal baffles that block the movement of a "swing arm" type fuel level sender. The mounting flange is the common 5 hole type with the holes unevenly spaced.
This is the closest thing I have found- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cin-sn35t22/overview/ (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cin-sn35t22/overview/)
The only problem with that sender is it isn't long enough. The tank is ~27.5" deep.
I just ordered a tube type for a link belt crane, I'll measure the resistance and length for you.
Eric
Livorsi,Larson,Wema or Mastercraft from the marine world I like the Livorsi but don't buy it often because of the price fwiw Moller/Reed is a good unit also but stay away from the China made stuff you wear the screws out taking those in and out sending it back
good luck
Man Clifford they should provide better screw, right!...... ;D
Thanks! I placed an order for a Wema SSS/SSL 27.0 240-33 ohms. It is worth paying for quality when replacing it involves either cutting a hole in the floor or removing the tank through the fourth bay.
Hi;
I used a Centroid sending unit. They have capacitance type
sender units. Have not had any problems since installing it
except setting the "empty" adjustment.
Call Mary at 386/423-3709. They are in Edgewater Fl.
Merle
not to throw a wrench in....
I have been lead to believe that the last twenty+ gallons in the tank are unavailable.
Have you factored that into your length ?
or is my belief fogged ?
Eagle- I wish I knew more about my fuel tanks. I do not know if the pickup tube(s?) are stock. I do not know if they reach the bottom of the tank or are 20 gallons too short. Both tanks have two large aluminum die cast fittings that aren't connected to anything. Does anybody know what those are for? Did Eagle use plastic air line as fuel line?
Every thing about the fuel system on my bus looks questionable at best. I am tempted to remove the fittings and plug the open holes. All of the plastic air line fuel line is shrunk tight and needs to be replaced with NAPAs stainless steel braided fuel line. The only thing holding me back is the unknown... I do not want to unscrew the pickup tubes or die cast fittings and have something critical fall off in the bottom of the tank.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-jzgqSRyPNrA/UnpI1hABtaI/AAAAAAAACrE/A0518GDS88Q/w632-h843-no/20131106_074904.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_dsMJm4a0C8/UnpIxL6CnqI/AAAAAAAACq4/PazQD9NoO1M/w632-h843-no/20131106_074835.jpg)
mine is a 78 ... 05/10 meaning it was near the end and the beginning,
having said that, mine doesn't look like yours... IIRC... now i need to go look :)
but i am reasonably certain that at least 15% of the fuel stays and you never suck
the bottom up ....
and you would want an inch clearance on the gage to tank bottom.
The pickup tube is only 1/2 from the bottom from the factory,Eagle used copper fuel line for the return and supply that leaves around 15 gals not useable ,the 2 extra fitting on top were for a fast fill option I only saw those on Houston Metro and NJT Eagles does the vent tie together and come out in 1 place ? when you remove the gauge sender you can see the pickup tube fwiw
Not being able to use all the fuel? Is that just an Eagle thing or is it related to an MCI as we'll?
Jim D.
All buses have a useable gals and non useable gals when it comes to fuel pickup
Thanks!! Always learning!
Clifford- There are six places open to fresh air. Air (and water) can enter the fuel tanks through the four die cast aluminum fittings and through two plastic air lines plumbed up to the fuel cap enclosures on both sides of the bus. The large red tube connects the two tanks together, but does not allow fresh air in.
On the newer Eagles they moved the 2 over fill drain vent lines back behind the cap on the fill tubes the red line should have a air release some where, without the fast fill I would remove all 6 and go with a vent like most Eagles I can send you the drawings on the revision on the fuel tank piping and filling neck if you want it
I will remove all 6 existing "vents"-- those are the 4 fast fill fittings and the 2 air lines that go to the fuel cap enclosueres. I just double checked the full length of the red hose with a flashlight-- It is one continuous piece of hose that connects the two tanks together. How is a normal vent plumbed? Do I need to buy a special vent "T" for the red hose?
I'll send the updated revision drawing Mon to you by PM
An updated diagram would be very helpful. If it weren't for you, ten years from now I would still be wondering why my tank has random vents everywhere. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge.
Quote from: sparkplug188 on October 26, 2014, 12:38:58 PMThanks! I placed an order for a Wema SSS/SSL 27.0 240-33 ohms. It is worth paying for quality when replacing it involves either cutting a hole in the floor or removing the tank through the fourth bay.
I have a WEMA sender. Looks solid and I've had no trouble with it.
Clifford- I found the diagrams in my parts book. Like you said, the vents "T" into the fill lines behind the cap. I will set my vents up just like the diagram.
Good Jesse I spent 1/2 the day trying to scan it thanks
Isspro
Clifford- No problem. Thank you for pointing me in the right direction.
For anyone searching this topic in the future, this is the diagram:
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FRVaN68v.jpg&hash=6c9812e49efb02fb295f7b509f9ad25c7d76341b)
I sure like my single 130gal tank on my bus, and my single 150gal tank on my bus (also a 75gal for gen). Good luck, TomC
I recently replaced/added a fuel sending unit to my 5a. I liked the Wema unit. Maybe I was dealing with the wrong person, but they made a really big deal about how my plate, which had the same pattern as theirs, was rotated differently, how they would have to alter their factory production line just to accommodate my slightly different orientation, and how that would involve extra custom manufacturing charges.
I also looked at the Centroid unit, which was fine. They had a reasonable method for matching the plate orientation. However, they were really quirky and made it difficult to put in the order. While waiting for them, I contacted Luke who had a float unit he said would work, so I went with that. It seems to be fine, but I will not know if it hangs up anywhere until I use a bunch more fuel.