I don't want to start the age old discussion again, but forgive my ignorance (or even interest) about oil. But O'Reilly Auto Parts has this on sale.
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ftapatalk.imageshack.com%2Fv2%2F14%2F10%2F20%2Fffe1407f474dc10aed2af9ffcae19ff9.jpg&hash=68a359a16c664394a4247e5f0ff85b459807479a)
It has the CF-2 rating and approved for Detroit Diesel 2-stroke applications according to the Shell website.
You can buy this same oil, In the SAE30 at Walmart. I bought some when I couldn't find anything else. I wasn't sure it was right, but it's oil....so
YES,
I noticed it at Wally World last week.. Cool!
In a bind on the road we all do what we have to. But otherwise, unless operating exclusively in a sub-freezing climate, Detroit Diesel does not advise the use of 30W oil in their 2-stroke engines. It can result in dangerously low oil pressure, especially at idle.
That is what I use. Found some at TSC for $15.00.
If its wrong I will be wrong with ya, as I replaced with it and bought more all in 40, not sure why but I ran in to the same deal with the weight and had time so I ask if they could get 40 and was no problem next morning. Curious to know how it works out for others.
Good day there
Might give a lot more thought to using the SAE 40 wt oil, I would, but I have read the DDC manuals. Unless your at -20f, would not be using SAE30.
Dave M
Dave there is a very old saying that goes, "The proof is in the pudding". It seems the 40 works better for most. Sometimes the manuals aren't updated to include million of miles of success stories. I imagine that DD really isn't spending a lot of time updating a lot on the two stokes are they? It is the practical experience that wins out every time.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I just ordered a case of three gallons. That should last me for years.
Alaska...30 wt
drive to Texas, winter....dump the oil....nope.
400 hrs. change it....yup...40 wt. in 2006.
still purring... on 40 wt.
Oil is an interesting subject and full of opinions, even Greyhound used SAE30 back when my MC7 was new, even ran the 30 in front wheel bearings & tag bearings, now we all know better don't we.
Even the older DDA books said 30wt, but they finally went with the 40wt, and if your running a high output 8V-92, you best be thinking 50wt. Most know the 8V-92 has a tender rear main bearing.
Of course, forget everything you hear and do what makes you happy, pay for it later.
All opinion of course.
Dave M
;D No one ever pays any attention to the book when it says @ 100 degrees air temp you are supposed to use 50W I can see people looking for 50w on the road because it is a 100 degrees that is not happening in the real world
You'll love this one...
1975....working 16 hour days on a flood control dyke, no time, paid the local Fairbanks ford dealer to R+R a diff seal in my Lincoln MKIV, (a few bucks, I'm a mechanic)...
drove it around a few days and hooked up to my 31ft airstream.
Heading to Valdez in the middle of nowhere my kids in the back seat telling me their asses are getting hot...huh ???
pull over and stick my hand between the seats....ouch...dam near burned my fingers....
Now what.
I check it out...no pumpkin oil, zilch...sh^%...
worse yet...not a drop of dead dinosaur anywhere...
double dam....
looked around and found a half gallon of Wesson oil and a turkey baster.
Drove another 60 miles to a place I could park,camp and get help,pulled the axles to see what parts I'd need...nada...zip...put it back together added gear oil....drove it for another 3 years.
I don't think anybody would change their oil to a different weight on the road based on the climate they are visiting. And I don't think the manual even eludes to that. What it is referencing is the typical operating environment of the engine. If it will spend the majority of its time in subfreezing, then 30wt. If it will spend the majority of its operation in 100+ degrees, then 50wt. Otherwise 40 wt.
The issue as I understand it is oil pressure, especially at idle, and oil flow, especially at load. Thinner oil at high temps, makes it harder to maintain minimum oil pressure at idle/low rpms. Thicker oil at low temps reduces flow under load.
Quote from: luvrbus on October 20, 2014, 07:52:27 PM
;D No one ever pays any attention to the book when it says @ 100 degrees air temp you are supposed to use 50W I can see people looking for 50w on the road because it is a 100 degrees that is not happening in the real world
50 wt becomes cement at sub freezing temps...
Delo 100 40 wt ;D 8) ::)
The point was Mike the guy used 30 w because he could not find 40w and people clouded up and rained down on him that was my point.
I know if it was my engine and I needed a couple of gals of oil and 15/40 or 30w was all that was available the old DD would need to acquire a taste for 15/40 or 30 w because that is what it would get.
Take Sean his Neo always ran at 200 degrees or a little above he never used 50W as the book calls for, the book is a guide line but you do what you have to do IMO
Even though i had 40 wt with me, the shop wanted to use 30wt for the break-in of my engine for warranty purposes. Told me that once i got back to Yuma i could change it to 40 wt if i wanted to even though it would have less than 2000 miles on it.
All shops use 30w after a out of frame rebuild Ed and run it for 5000 miles and then pull a sample
It is very helpful for members of this board to mention when sales of this nature are on.
I just called O'Reilley's and ordered my three cases.
Thanks for sharing the news!
Mike in GA
A little wear is an essential part of break-in.
Quote from: luvrbus on October 21, 2014, 06:20:45 AM
All shops use 30w after a out of frame rebuild Ed and run it for 5000 miles and then pull a sample
Quote from: Ed Hackenbruch on October 21, 2014, 06:11:48 AM
Even though i had 40 wt with me, the shop wanted to use 30wt for the break-in of my engine for warranty purposes. Told me that once i got back to Yuma i could change it to 40 wt if i wanted to even though it would have less than 2000 miles on it.
I don't know about your shop ED but Williams,United and Stewart and Stevenson use a 30 W with a high ash content like 1.27 for the break in period after a out of frame so do I
So on the subject of ideal oil pressure, what should we be looking for? What is an acceptable idle oil pressure reading?
Clifford, i am not going to change it yet....it only has 1625 miles on it now. Will pull an oil sample when i change it.
Geom, the book for my 5A says with the engine hot, 11 lbs minimum idling.
The 6V92 anything above 7 lbs is safe the turbo takes some of the oil pressure always check the idle rpm before checking the oil pressure and worrying about it takes away the stress off by 50 rpms makes a world of difference