Isn't there supposed to be some kind if thin material or pad between the rims to keep the inside dual lug nuts from coming loose? I think I recall some inquiry after a pedestrian was killed by a runaway tire and they said that piece was missing.
on a bud wheel, if the outside nut is tight I cannot imagine any way that the inner lug could turn because the outer nut locks the stud to the outside wheel. Am I understanding your question right? I have not seen any kind of spacer that is supposed to keep the inner lug tight.
There is a isolator I think that what it is called between aluminum and steel wheels for corrosion purposes that all I know of
Sometimes a plastic sheet is put in between a steel and aluminum wheel, or all aluminum wheel and the iron brake drum for corrosion protection. I know of no other sheet available. The only thing with Budd 2 bolt type wheels-is used never seeze to keep them from freezing up. Good Luck, TomC
The only way wheel nuts will not come loose is proper torque + proper re-torque (after about 100 to 300 miles). That or luck.
As the others have said, If you use dissimilar metals (Aluminum outside steel inside) you need the gasket.
I suspect many do not have them.
They are a large plastic disc that fits over all 10 studs and cover the area where the wheels touch.
I think they are usually yellow (or orange?) I have a couple of them in the shop but any truck tire dealer will have them.
The old split rims would very rarely pop the lock ring and that perhaps could lead to the rim separating and the tube and tire coming off the rim? I do remember how dangerous split rims were to non properly assemble and then adding air to. Back in high school, (1965) auto shop class we had to watch a very graphic black and white film on what can happen if things go wrong. HB of CJ (old coot)
Beware! If you are a newbie do not confuse a mar ring with the thin wafer that is normally used between a steel and aluminum wheel. A mar ring is what the tire shops use to protect the outside of the wheel from the air gun socket. Don't attempt to use it between the inner and outer wheel, you might get a nasty surprise.
I always wondered what is the correct way to check or re-torque the inner Bud cones on bud wheels? You would have to take the outer lug nut off, or loosen it off at least, to get any kind of true measurement on the square head inner nut. Which means torquing the outer nut from scratch.
Brian
Quote from: bevans6 on October 08, 2014, 04:07:57 AMI always wondered what is the correct way to check or re-torque the inner Bud cones on bud wheels? You would have to take the outer lug nut off, or loosen it off at least, to get any kind of true measurement on the square head inner nut. Which means torquing the outer nut from scratch.
Brian
Torque??? Shurely, the manly way is to take a 3/4" drive air gun with a big black socket and slam that sucker on until the stud snaps off, right? Any less than that and your wheel will fall off!
(/snicker mode)
Quote from: bevans6 on October 08, 2014, 04:07:57 AM
I always wondered what is the correct way to check or re-torque the inner Bud cones on bud wheels? You would have to take the outer lug nut off, or loosen it off at least, to get any kind of true measurement on the square head inner nut. Which means torquing the outer nut from scratch.
Brian
LOL, I had written out a long drawn out post about the same thing, then just shortened it. It sounded a little dry. :D
BTW, it's a 1" drive gun.
Everything you ever wanted to know about wheels and mounting:
http://www.accuridecorp.com/files/2012/10/Accuride-Wheels-Rim_Wheel-Safety-and-Service-Manual-ACC7-0002-Rev-4-06-22-12.pdf (http://www.accuridecorp.com/files/2012/10/Accuride-Wheels-Rim_Wheel-Safety-and-Service-Manual-ACC7-0002-Rev-4-06-22-12.pdf)
Our PDI (Pre Delivery Inspection) guy torques all wheel bolts and U bolts with a torque wrench that has a 4ft handle! Good Luck, TomC
If I remember this right, a 150lb guy hanging from the end of a 4 foot bar equals 600lb
Of course few of us probably weigh 150 lbs. I could use a two foot bar. Or Frankie could hang from a 6 foot bar.
Well, I TORQUE them in the first place with a 4 foot torque wrench, so the whole torquing thing is no problem. I check the torque on the front nuts and the rear outer nuts no problem. I just don't know how to check the torque on the inner Budd cones.
Brian
Thanks for all the action on my post. Just want to be safe. I'm going to take the coach over to the tire shop and get them to torque all my wheels. I have a bit of rust dripping off a couple of lug nuts. A sign that they're possibly loose.
Quote from: akroyaleagle on October 08, 2014, 09:55:04 AM
If I remember this right, a 150lb guy hanging from the end of a 4 foot bar equals 600lb
Of course few of us probably weigh 150 lbs. I could use a two foot bar. Or Frankie could hang from a 6 foot bar.
In my early years of aircraft school my instructor asked me what the torque was to put a propeller on a R985 motor? My answer was about me on the end of that bar. He didn't like that response. p.s. I was only off by 30ft lbs;D
Long ago in another life when I owned helicopters I was installing main rotor blades and didn't know if the main rotor blade grip bolt was supposed to be torqued. I called my tech service guy and asked him. He says "torque to GFT". I asked "GFT?" He replies, yeah, "good and f***ing tight!". LOL
Quote from: Boomer on October 11, 2014, 08:18:59 AM
Long ago in another life when I owned helicopters I was installing main rotor blades and didn't know if the main rotor blade grip bolt was supposed to be torqued. I called my tech service guy and asked him. He says "torque to GFT". I asked "GFT?" He replies, yeah, "good and f***ing tight!". LOL
"main rotor blade grip bolt" -- yeah, GFT and pray!!!!
When I was in the Army they called it the Jesus nut. If it came loose you were going to meet him.
Quote from: solodon on October 11, 2014, 04:23:36 PMWhen I was in the Army they called it the Jesus nut. If it came loose you were going to meet him.
The NC Forest Service has been running a couple of "EuroStar" helicopters for the past 6-8 years (the last of our Hueys had just wore out). The rotor hub (3-way) is a big forging in high-tech aluminum and there was an A/D to have them checked with dye penetrant for cracks. *Both* of ours had cracks you could see with your naked eye. Made our pilots feel *really* safe!
When I was in flight school a couple of centuries ago, I was performing my first preflight on a huey. The instructor half-heartedly told me to grab the "jesus" nut and make sure it was tight. I grabbed it and it came back with my hand. I new just enough to suspect that wasn't right. The IP nearly fainted. I learned the significance of that very quickly and it stuck with me.
Yup, the Jesus Nut used on Huey 2 bladed teetering rotor systems. The grips I was refering to are on fully articulated 3 and 4 bladed rotor systems. Two things to avoid making your day a bad one on a Huey, mast bump and loose Jesus nut!
When i was riding on them i was worried more about getting shot down......
Ya might survive getting shot down but a mast sheared off or loosing a nut.....well, kiss your @$# good bye. Those were the days huh Ed.
Having started out as an Infantryman in the 101st. I guess fear of getting shot down wasn't so great on my part.
Or nearly 50 years has dimmed it.
Fear of getting shot down was lessened when I switched to gun ships. The Charlie and Mike models gave you the ability to shoot back. The Cobras caused those little guys to quit firing at the skinny ones. The Apache ruins a whole lot of days for them.
After retiring from the Army, I learned to really like the fully articulated systems. I spent a lot of time in Super Pumas and some in AStars and BStars. I also have a good bit of time in the 500MD. The 412 isn't so bad. The 212 caused me a lot of back pain on long days. Jetrangers nearly killed me.
Maybe we'll meet at a rally someday Boomer and compare stories.