My propane tank is getting rusty I do not think that the rust is bad it looks like surface rust, but since it is in the basement of where I will be sleeping I figured I would ask. The tank is empty and I am thinking of removing it from the storage bay and using the wire wheel on my grinder to remove the paint that is left and then just repainting it does this seem like a good idea to do it this way. Is there any precautions that I should take or is there a better way to do this?
Here are some pics of the tanks current condition.
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Many places will not refill a tank that has been repainted.
no place will fill a propane tank that has the old style valve....nor will they let you cross hoover dam..or travel in some tunnels....without the OPD....
I might be wrong, but last time I was there they had a stack of propane tanks that would fill 2 pickup trucks...at least.
Best to just buy a new tank then, I forgot about the newer style valve.
That tank has the OPD valve ( the yellow cap) just paint it on the RV mounted tanks all the BS does not apply the same portable tanks,but I don't know about using a steel wheel I am thinking sand blasting or paint remover ::)
Personally I would go with a regular grill tank. A lot less money and a lot easier to deal with. Plus you can get new ones when you use one of the tank trade-in things like at HD or Lowes. There are 2 on mine, and I won't be using a lot of propane anyway.
If I was only using the stove, heaters and Furnace I would gladly use a couple of small grill ones but my Generator is propane so I do not have much choice. I suppose I could convert the generator to GAS but I don't know if I gain anything by doing that since it takes up storage space just like the propane.
The steel wheel does not seem great to me either I like the idea of stripper better, maybe I will try that.
I have propane for my house stove so I am going to see if they will fill this for me too, but I know if it shows rust most places will not touch it.
I would install one of the newer style regulators that cut off if a leak is flowing to much propane I don't see the regulator is it on the appliances ? I would install a regulator close to the tank and those tanks can be mounted any where and use a remote fill for easy filling. Mine were like that for years they cost about 40 bucks for the Auto Stop brand maybe more now with the price of brass today with the bleeder valve made on the fill valve
Yeah, you will want a big tank then. If you do use that one, I would have it pressure tested before you fill it.
here's the deal...12 year old tanks are supposed to be recertified.... the way i understood it... if it has the old style shut off valve...hence not the OPD then you would encounter problems getting it filled...since the requirement has been in existence since 2002...plus 12 = 2014,,, or since january
I am all electric so I have no propane dilemma.
In otherwords if the cert stamp is more than 12 years ago.
Here is a picture of the regulator and a shot to show its location, although I am not sure that I like the way this it is mounted.
Where is a good place to go to get the tank tested?
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I would call whoever your house propane is supplied by and ask them if they do it or can recommend someone who does. That tank looks a lot worse than the one on my old Winnie and that one made me a little nervous.
That tank is made of 1/4 in steel wait till you pick it up, you can do what you feel best with but that tank does not need to be tested look at welds on it that is a DOT approved tank has a liquid and a vapor valve so your generator runs on vapor the way it is plumbed ?
How would you tell the amount it holds to get a replacement the dimensions are roughly 70" circumference x 34" long.
I think it might look worse in the pics than it is but you can't be too safe, it looks empty too which is good.
Can anyone recommend some place to look for a new tank I would like to see what my options are, especially if anyone has installed one in a 4104 compartment mine is in the second from the front on the drivers side.
Quote from: luvrbus on October 02, 2014, 12:16:12 PM
That tank is made of 1/4 in steel wait till you pick it up, you can do what you feel best with but that tank does not need to be tested look at welds on it that is a DOT approved tank has a liquid and a vapor valve so your generator runs on vapor the way it is plumbed ?
I have not started the Generator yet but it has been running like this, I will check the Generator to see what the manual says.
I do not know a lot about tanks but it looks extremely heavy not like the grill types, and the rust is very much only surface rust. Also if you look at the pics there is no rust at the seams which is good.
There is a stamping on the side but it is tough to read I am going to see if I can get a rubbing of it.
I would clean it up, paint it and not concern myself ::) your switch is on the way first class mail was the cheapest way to send it 3 bucks
Quote from: luvrbus on October 02, 2014, 12:28:28 PM
I would clean it up, paint it and not concern myself ::) your switch is on the way first class mail was the cheapest way to send it 3 bucks
Thanks your the best!
Ps I would clean it up too...and not worry on it either, I'm just addressing your concerns..
There are 2 types of propane storage vessels, an ASME TANK and the DOT CYLINDER. NFPA pamphlet 58 states that the DOT CYLINDER needs to be recertified after 12 years from the manufacturing date. Depending on the certifying method used, they are recertified every 5,7,12 years thereafter. The recertification involves an inspection and testing of the cylinder to confirm that the cylinder is still safe and legal to remain in service.
ASME TANKS that are found on an RV do not get recertified. They should have the relief valve replaced every 10 years and should follow the same standards established by the Department of Transportation.
Notice the wording here - they go to great lengths to call the BBQ tanks a CYLINDER and the ASME cylinders a TANK.
So... is it time to re-certify that propane tank/cylinder on your RV??? The answer is MAYBE if you have a travel trailer and definitely NO if you have a motor home. It couldn't hurt, but it is not a requirement on an rv with an ASME TANK, I would have the relief valve replaced after 10 years and the flexible hose connection replaced after 15 years.
http://phmsa.dot.gov/pv_obj_cache/pv_obj_id_0AC374C72CE4B82CD55A384509C1A22E6EDA1000/filename/requal_propane_cylinders.pdf (http://phmsa.dot.gov/pv_obj_cache/pv_obj_id_0AC374C72CE4B82CD55A384509C1A22E6EDA1000/filename/requal_propane_cylinders.pdf)
Mine is in the same place. It has been in the coach for over 20 years. never a problem and it has been painted with silver paint several times.
It is used for heat ,cooking and the refg.
uncle ned
Donald has some good info but those are not a series 4 tank 240 psi tank they are rated 650 psi to 800 psi @ 100 degrees
If I could upgrade it to current standards for a reasonable price I probably would. I tend to upgrade everything... ::) At the same time my understanding is the same as has been stated - permanent tanks in motorhomes aren't subject to automatic rebuilding/recertification every however many years. But they are subject to inspection every time they get filled, and who know when someone is going to call you on it. I personally would at the very least pull that tank, media blast it and spray paint it with a quality paint and system, the idea being to make it look like it was owned by someone who was proud of it. I think that is exactly what you think, too. Wire wheel or abrasives won't cut it, it needs to be fairly aggressively media blasted. That might mean fully emptying it and filling it with a noble gas like argon, and that is something that I think you may need a qualified guy to do.
Brian
I've been around lots of tanks . Clean it up . Put your $ elsewhere and your ahead of the game ... Plus it fits...
You can buy any valve on the tank if needed and install it yourself no questions asked I just replaced a relief valve 9 bucks from Mesa Pipe and Supply here in the valley
Quote from: luvrbus on October 02, 2014, 04:03:01 PM
You can buy any valve on the tank if needed and install it yourself no questions asked I just replaced a relief valve 9 bucks from Mesa Pipe and Supply here in the valley
This definitely sounds like the way to go, I will remove it clean it up and at least replace the release valve. I would also like to mount the regulator in a better way.
Once I have done all of that I will ask my propane guy to fill it.
Thanks!
It's probably better than anything you could buy new today, I agree paint it, fill it, use it.
Pull it out and take to a Suburban propane location. They should be able to tell you what you can and can't do with/to it. If it is ok, I'd sand blast it.
Quote from: chessie4905 on October 02, 2014, 04:43:49 PM
Pull it out and take to a Suburban propane location. They should be able to tell you what you can and can't do with/to it. If it is ok, I'd sand blast it.
i would hesitate to do that...with it laying on the ground in there yard i am sure you will leave with your wallet $400.00 lighter....
If you leave it in the Bus add a second hookup off a "T" with a separate shut off so that if you stay anywhere for awhile and you run out of Propane you can have the propane company bring you a 50 to 100 gallon tank and then you will have the hookup right there with their tank and your system. You shut off your tank and open the second shutoff. You won't have to pull up stakes and go get your on board tank filled.
I just pulled my 25 gallon tank out and put in 4, 20lb LP tanks (BBQ) on slides. If one or two empty I pull it and fill it when I get time and just switch to one of the others. ;D
Dave5Cs
He may not to be able to remove tank till he finds out if the generator is vapor fuel or not it has 2 valves
My Manchester chassis tank is over 20 years old and never had anyone refuse to fill it. Chassis mounts are not regulated like portables. Repaint it nicely and will look pretty. I would add a solenoid cut off valve-I have one and keep the propane off until I need it for my furnace or stove only. Good Luck, TomC
I have one of these on my boat. More important on a boat than a bus but still a good investment.
http://www.fireboy-xintex.com/S-1A.htm (http://www.fireboy-xintex.com/S-1A.htm)
I repainted my forklift style tank, it was not as rusty as yours, i researched this type of tank and it did not require a recert, my tank has valves for liquid and vapor, liquid for the generator, i replaced all the valves with opd built into them, replaced the regulator with an two stage type, blew out the tank with air covered the inlets while i sanded off the minor rust old paint, replaced the filler fitting and hose , added a shut off to the filler hose,added a lpg gauge to monitor fuel level, applied new lpg decals.
What is that cable looking stuff with the turnbuckle hooked to it in the picture of your tank?
Quote from: chessie4905 on October 03, 2014, 01:50:02 PM
What is that cable looking stuff with the turnbuckle hooked to it in the picture of your tank?
That is the way that they mounted it, I would not have done it that way but it has been in there forever and is still fine so I am going to leave it. The aircraft cable is rubber coated and is not digging into the tank.
I was out working on the bus and grabbed a couple of pictures of the generator and noticed that there is a regulator there that may account for why there was nothing connected to the liquid connection on the tank.
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Generally, something that uses a large volume of propane connects to a liquid port and has a vaporizer close to the machine to vaporize the liquid propane so the generator, in this case, can run on gas. The vaporizer uses water temperature exhaust heat, or even an electrical element to vaporize the liquid propane. Your picture is the vaporizer. Many times it is recommended to have an automatic shutoff valve before the vaporizer in case of some serious leak. Do you have one?
There is definitely one there, but now that you mention it I should become more familiar with where they are.
I am pretty sure for every drop there is a valve but some are not quite right next to the drop.