Well it seems like my shift pins are 9/16 and no one has any around here. Amazon is out of stock on anyone who can overnight them with Prime. So, I am going to be making some pins tonight.
Quote from: mung on September 25, 2014, 09:31:23 AM
Well it seems like my shift pins are 9/16 and no one has any around here. Amazon is out of stock on anyone who can overnight them with Prime. So, I am going to be making some pins tonight.
parts book says that they are all 1/2" or 3/8".....your yokes are worn...
Just take a 9/16 bolt and cut to length and drill for cotter pin.
Eagle, it says that for all of them except the one that doesn't have the specs which is the one for those yokes and was actually used in military applications. Hard to believe that the yoke and the arm just happened to wear out to EXACTLY 3/4 of an inch and the holes stayed round.
Chessie, exactly what I am doing. Going to Northern Tools right now to buy a drill press, because all I have now is one that you strap a hand drill to. Figure I am going to need a real one and really should have had one a long time ago.
Sorry, meant exactly 9/16" round. Yeah the bolt fits in there really nice. Now I need to get it cut and drilled.
Watch out for the hardness of the pin. Clevis pins are often hardened a lot more than bolts, which are actually quite soft. They might wear out really fast. Just something to think about, if you are transferring much force.
Brian
You could get a grade 8 bolt but it could be hard to drill or cut. Get at least, a cobalt drill bit to make the job easier.
I got a grade 5 and that was hard enough to drill through. Tore my bits and my rescue blades up.
Why not just use a grd8 bolt with a steel locknut? If unsure about the security of a steel locking nut, add some locktite red.
You would have trouble getting enough thread without it being in the clevis where you want it smooth. Not saying it can't work, but some of the shorter bolts are all thread or you would have to cut off the excess thread to avoid possible interference with other rods. Grease them when installing. You'll never run that coach enough to have wear issues.
Add to that, in order to keep it in there you would need 2 nuts locked on each other and at that size those nuts are thick. So it would have put a lot of excess bolt sticking out of the side of the yoke. Yes as strong as those bolts are, the yoke will wear out first.
I use grade 8 bolts with a grade 8 or AN half height nylock nut in place of a clevis pin. I just cut them off with a hacksaw to length. Seems to work quite well, and they stay in place fine.
Brian
Yes, they will work fine but cotter pins are cheap and we need to keep the weight down on an 04. ::)
As long as it took to cut through the grade 5 - 9/16 bolts with the sawz all using rescue blades, I can't imagine how long it would take to cut through a grade 8 with a hack saw.
About two minutes, extrapolating from a 3/8" bolt. Newish 24 tooth bi-metal blade, normally. I cut bolts all the time, and sometimes drill the heads for safety wire. I find those metal cutting blades in a recip saw quite slow too. Hack saw is actually faster. I do a lot of metal fab work, so I guess I am used to it... You were luck to find a 9/16" bolt actually, far more common for suppliers to jump from 1/2" to 5/8". You could lube the bolts with that ceramic brake pin grease, it is very resistant to water and very persistent.
Brian
best thing since sliced bread....a bread slicer ;D
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Quote from: mung on September 26, 2014, 05:08:01 AM
As long as it took to cut through the grade 5 - 9/16 bolts with the sawz all using rescue blades, I can't imagine how long it would take to cut through a grade 8 with a hack saw.
Cut off saw works pretty good too.
The rescue blades worked good, but did take some effort. It does shift a lot better now and I didn't have any issues with it getting stuck in gear.