I know it is over a hundred degrees here in St Louis today, but it will be cold soon enough. I was looking into adding heat strips to my 2 ac units, and came across these.
http://www.eheat.com/categories/Wall-Mounted-Electric-Panel-Heaters/ (http://www.eheat.com/categories/Wall-Mounted-Electric-Panel-Heaters/)
I was wondering if anyone has used them? All the reviews seem to be good on them. They are the same amount for direct wire or the ones that come with a plug.
http://warmwaves.com/ (http://warmwaves.com/) This is new technology.
Quote from: harleyman_1000 on August 23, 2014, 01:36:21 PM
I know it is over a hundred degrees here in St Louis today, but it will be cold soon enough. I was looking into adding heat strips to my 2 ac units, and came across these.
http://www.eheat.com/categories/Wall-Mounted-Electric-Panel-Heaters/ (http://www.eheat.com/categories/Wall-Mounted-Electric-Panel-Heaters/)
I was wondering if anyone has used them? All the reviews seem to be good on them. They are the same amount for direct wire or the ones that come with a plug.
$139.00 for....Power Consumption: 475 Watts of heat....i don't think so...
two 5$ heat lamps will do that...
or you can get a half dozen cube heaters..... I've never needed more than two, but have used 3 cuz I'm extravagant and my wife is an ice cube.. ;D
Quote from: harleyman_1000 on August 23, 2014, 01:36:21 PM
I know it is over a hundred degrees here in St Louis today, but it will be cold soon enough. I was looking into adding heat strips to my 2 ac units, and came across these.
[
I have heat strips in my A/C units. IMO they are like pissing in the wind. In other words they don't work very well.
John
I have a heat strip I was thinking it was 5600 btu or 1500 watts it works fairly good with the fan on low on high not so good, as the air heats up inside it gets better
Fulltime in Central NM. It gets very cold here in the winter (snow, ice, sleet and single digit temps). We use electric heat (two fan forced 1500 watts Patton Utility heaters $20 each from Wal-Mart, usually overnight only), a Tag-a-long LP heater we've had for many years (wall-mounted in the bathroom area that can also heat the bedroom if need be), a vent-free LP gas log fireplace insert. At night, we have a heated mattress pad (not electric blanket... a pad that we sleep on top of) on our bed as we like to keep the room pretty cool. One winter, while we were planning the conversion, Albuquerque lost power due to a huge winter storm. It was out in some places for over two weeks. We have lived in other places where the power has gone out anywhere from a few hours to a week. We do not want to be dependant solely on electric heat. That is why we have both electric and LP options. We also let sunshine in during the day which helps warm the bus up as well. We have a portion of our site rental goes towards electric. If we go over that amount, we have to make up the difference. We don't go over. We have found that electric space heaters don't work all that great when the temps get below 20F and/or the wind is blowing hard. But the LP fireplace (thermostatically controlled) keeps us warm. The LP heater in the bathroom is great to just heat the bath area for showers and getting dressed in the morning.
I looked at the web site, and every thing shows installation in the floor. I had a house that had electric radiant in the ceiling. The house was always comfortable, and the only place that was "cold" was under the desk, as the radiant didn't get down there. Seems that this material could be very good but I think that in the ceiling or possibly on the walls the radiation is straight line and would work either way. Ceiling would probably be best though. Waiting for those more knowledgeable to tell me where I'm wrong.
Spent this past winter (one of the coldest in recent history in Indiana) in a 8'x24.5' fifth wheel camper. Used 2 utility electric heaters and when it got sub zero added a small Mr. Heater to the mix to take the rest of the chill off when I was awake. Would relight the heater in the morning only if I needed it. Was comfortable (low to mid 60's) during the coldest part of the winter and the two electric kept 70 once above 20 degrees. The camper was made in 1984 and I'm sure the insulation is the best to be had (hahahaha). I did skirt the trailer before winter and found that helped a lot. The floor never really got that cold either. I think that by the time I'm done insulating the bus (floor, walls and ceiling), it'll be very comfortable (I hope).
The single 35,000btu Atwood propane heater works quite well. It only takes a run of 3-4 minutes to warm up the bus. When at the power pole will use one or two space heaters. All three of my roof top airs (Colemans) have heat strips. The trick is to close the vents off to slow the air down, then they work pretty well. Also have an electric wall heater in the bathroom wired through the inverter.
My going down the road heater is the original heater radiator (5ft X 18") that is mounted under my cabinets on the floor in the hallway with two 14" 12v radiator fans powering it. When it kicks on, you can count to 10 then feel the heat up front. The front defroster is still hooked up-many times just turning on the water with the air coming in with the motion of the bus is enough to keep it warm inside when driving. Good Luck, TomC
Quote from: TomC on August 23, 2014, 10:44:45 PM
The single 35,000btu Atwood propane heater works quite well. It only takes a run of 3-4 minutes to warm up the bus. When at the power pole will use one or two space heaters. All three of my roof top airs (Colemans) have heat strips. The trick is to close the vents off to slow the air down, then they work pretty well. Also have an electric wall heater in the bathroom wired through the inverter.
My going down the road heater is the original heater radiator (5ft X 18") that is mounted under my cabinets on the floor in the hallway with two 14" 12v radiator fans powering it. When it kicks on, you can count to 10 then feel the heat up front. The front defroster is still hooked up-many times just turning on the water with the air coming in with the motion of the bus is enough to keep it warm inside when driving. Good Luck, TomC
When you say to close the vents off, do you mean the vent that goes to the roof vent blower fan, or the directional vents on the inside?
How can I tell if my colman units are ducted? This is a picture of the units that I
have.http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m6FW8dJI4ie3tPK_0Adp03g.jpg (http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m6FW8dJI4ie3tPK_0Adp03g.jpg)
I know that most of you say the heat strips are worthless, but for 44.00 a piece, and not having to worry about a space heater while I'm sleeping I think I am going to install them. I'm having trouble figuring out which heat strip to order. I'm not sure which units I have? I think mine are the low profile units. Mine has ceiling assembly 67698714 and were made August 6th 1985. I have read everything on the units and can't find anywhere what btu they are? Do any of you know about my units?
non ducted that is the upper unit for a Coleman Mach 13.500 btu for 44 bucks does include the new switch.I personally like my heat strips as Tom C says restrictive air flow is the key
Quote from: luvrbus on August 24, 2014, 11:18:49 AM
non ducted that is the upper unit for a Coleman Mach 13.500 btu for 44 bucks does include the new switch.I personally like my heat strips as Tom C says restrictive air flow is the key
Do I need to replace both switches? Meaning I know the switch on the left has to be replaced so that it has the heat switch, but do I also need to replace the switch on the right that controls how cool it blows?
My A/C's are non ducted Coleman's. I close off the front and rear louver on the A/C to slow down the air on heater. The fan runs on low (which on a Coleman is more like medium) when on heat. Works well if you give it time to work-but in the meantime you have to put up with swirling cold air while it warms up. Good Luck, TomC
Quote from: luvrbus on August 24, 2014, 11:18:49 AM
non ducted that is the upper unit for a Coleman Mach 13.500 btu for 44 bucks does include the new switch.I personally like my heat strips as Tom C says restrictive air flow is the key
I called Coleman, and they say the heat strips are no longer available for my unit? After I ask if anyone sold aftermarket heat strips for my units, he said no, and that I might find some in a rv salvage yard. He said the new heat strips would not hook up(wiring) or mount correctly. My question is has anyone else had this issue with Coleman telling them this? I am thinking that maybe Coleman just wanted me to buy new units? Any information on where to find heat strips that will work would be greatly appreciated.
Scott - I would not go out of the way trying to find the heat strips for the AC unit. You'll get better heat from a 20$ heater cube from wally world. The heat strips don't really "Heat" the bus but raise the temp a few degrees. Airexcel techs call them "chill chasers" just enough to take the chill out of the air on a cool night. They will not heat the bus in sub freezing weather. Remember that Cliff lives in AZ and has very dry air in the winter. For that they are perfect. A cool 45-55 degree night and they would raise the inside temps of the bus a few degrees for the perfect sleeping temperature. We got an AC unit with a heat pump and that works great until it gets below 35 degrees outside. For anything colder than 30 degreees its best to use a small electric heater or propane heater to keep the bus warm.
-Sean
LOL I do live in AZ but have used the heat strips in Wells Nev and Idaho,they are not the greatest warming a cold bus but a fairly good job of maintaining the temp,they are 1500 w you don't expect much from 1500w
Clifford - You could also do like we do and bring 4 kids along with you to keep the bus warm. The 4 of them together produce about 1200 BTU's :)
Yes I know the propane furnace will work the best, but they use a lot of propane and my propane tank is 30 or 40 gallons and will run out in a few days so I figured electric heat would save me from having to run for propane every few days. My plan is to fulltime where it is always in a mild climate, but as we all know plans never go as planned. Will a couple 20 dollar heaters really heat a bus below 30 degrees? I'm not sure how well my bus is insulated yet, but since it was converted for someone in California back in the 80's originally I'm thinking not very well.
yes they will...Seangie has said it as have countless others.
My coach was adequate insulation but I have not all of the high $$ amounts that I have seen expressed on this board.
It takes a whole lot more insulation to be happy with what you got to keep cool than heat.
I spend A LOT of time in places with high humidity and high temps.
I spend $60-$70 annually per month average for electricity, I am an all electric coach.
I have lived primarily in this coach for 10 years.
I do not have a roof raise which leaves very little room for ceiling insulation.
You can spend a fortune listening to others "way" of what a coach should be,, but real world experience will determine what it needs to be.
My utility money is peanuts compared to the time and money one would spend just 'getting" more propane, in fact I think fetching propane would cost more than I spend on electric heat.
I have traveled to Alaska and back in October and November without a single freeze up with nothing more than heat lamps and my inverter in the plumbing bays and tank heaters.
Were I you I'd get cubes and spend my money else where.
I would be wondering when my 1985 model AC's were going to take a dump.
PS Just so you know, my primary heat is 220 volt electric, there are times that I am not on a pole that has 50 amp 220 service available, consequently if I have only 30 amp 110 volt shore power I used the 110v 1500 watt cubes, which are more than adequate.
1500 watts is 1500 watts = 5000 btu no matter where it comes from a cube heater or the strips the strips do take longer to heat the bus than a cube will
With the strips you are heating from the ceiling down with cubes your heating from the floor up and the last time I checked heat still rises I still like the strips ::) It is worth it to me not dealing with cords and the cube heaters and both will draw the same amps somewhere around 13.6
Quote from: eagle19952 on August 25, 2014, 10:36:02 AM
yes they will...Seangie has said it as have countless others.
My coach was adequate insulation but I have not all of the high $$ amounts that I have seen expressed on this board.
It takes a whole lot more insulation to be happy with what you got to keep cool than heat.
I spend A LOT of time in places with high humidity and high temps.
I spend $60-$70 annually per month average for electricity, I am an all electric coach.
I have lived primarily in this coach for 10 years.
I do not have a roof raise which leaves very little room for ceiling insulation.
You can spend a fortune listening to others "way" of what a coach should be,, but real world experience will determine what it needs to be.
My utility money is peanuts compared to the time and money one would spend just 'getting" more propane, in fact I think fetching propane would cost more than I spend on electric heat.
I have traveled to Alaska and back in October and November without a single freeze up with nothing more than heat lamps and my inverter in the plumbing bays and tank heaters.
Were I you I'd get cubes and spend my money else where.
I would be wondering when my 1985 model AC's were going to take a dump.
PS Just so you know, my primary heat is 220 volt electric, there are times that I am not on a pole that has 50 amp 220 service available, consequently if I have only 30 amp 110 volt shore power I used the 110v 1500 watt cubes, which are more than adequate.
How many 1500 cube heaters do you use to heat your coach?
Quote from: harleyman_1000 on August 25, 2014, 11:14:53 AM
How many 1500 cube heaters do you use to heat your coach?
We have 2...we use 1 and then an oil filled heater when it gets real cold...below 30. The second one I throw in the bay if I need to and have it for a backup.
Quote from: harleyman_1000 on August 25, 2014, 11:14:53 AM
How many 1500 cube heaters do you use to heat your coach?
Generally 2 but if it's very cold.... like 10 degrees I will put one in the entry area because heat moves to cold.... Caloric Theorum.... and my cat likes it :)
My cat has her own heating pad ::)
Quote from: harleyman_1000 on August 25, 2014, 12:17:29 PM
My cat has her own heating pad ::)
I have a wife that IS a heating pad.... :o
A 20 inch ceiling fan (ceiling huger)helps stop layering of heat/cold. Avail at Lowes.I put over drivers seat so I wouldn't have head bumps. Sure feels good blowing down on you when hot sun comes thru windshield. Or could use floor fan blowing up. Bob
The po installed a brand new dash air setup, so Im good with cold air ;D
I use 2 cube heaters, Wally Mart only needed 3'rd at -13 it was in the water bay. No roof raise, 1 1/2 in. foam insulation, 2 pillow in 2 of the 3 fantastic fans, 1 electric blanket, very few windows. Do use the gas stove to cook with only!!!!!
When I insulated I taped all metal screw heads, an all seams, and use heavy blanks over windows if below 0.
If power goes out Honda 3000I for short term backup.
Thanks to treeplanter. I went to the web site, read the info, contacted the company, and looks like I can do a self install for less than $3500. I was going to go hydronic however the ease of installation and price swayed me. I won't be getting it for a few months but when I do I'll update here. This product when installed on the floor sends infra-red up into the coach AND down thru the floor so it'll heat the pays also......more insulation to buy :).
I would stick with propane heat. If you're going to sit for more than a week in cold weather, call the local propane supply company and have them bring a 500lb stand up tank (125gal). I've seen many a long timer in RV parks with the big propane tanks hooked into the RV. Good Luck, TomC
Why spend that kinda of money for floor heat ? there are all types for a lot less money NuHeat has been used for years in the higher end bus conversions at a friction of 3500 dollars Home Depot even sells the floor heat that some serious bucks for no more than you get from floor heat IMO,no engine pre heat or hot water and a bus is nothing like a side walk or a house good luck on this one
Quote from: luvrbus on September 04, 2014, 10:57:38 AMWhy would spend that kinda of money for floor heat ? there are all types for a lot less money NuHeat has been used for years in the higher end bus conversions at a friction of 3500 dollars Home Depot even sells the floor heat that some serious bucks for no more than you get from floor heat IMO,no engine pre heat or hot water and a bus is nothing like a side walk or a house good luck on this one
Kinda what I was thinking (at least for me ... somebody else does it "his way"). And it's "New Technology" which is too often (IME) code for "buy this and we'll see if we really figured out how to make work".
I bought 2 cube heaters for $5 each at a yard sale to replace one that had died. Hoped that they would last for a year each if i was lucky. So far the first one is still working fine after 8 years and still have the other one for a backup. We also have a couple of Olympian Propane catalytic heaters that we can use if it gets too cold. I used the other $3490.00 for fuel for the bus. ;D
Yep we have 2 small cubes too. One swings back and forth and the other one I hang up in the Bedroom if it gets cold at night. We have a suburban heater but never had to use it. I tested it to make sure it worked and it needed a new board but haven't even put it in yet.
thanks for the additional input. While I'd been considering hydronics I felt that the expense and complication of installation were more than I wanted. I looked at Warm Waves because I'd not known about Nuheat. I've looked now at Nuheat, and feel that while the cost of the product may be less, the labor and cost of installation would make it about the same as the Warm Wave in the final analysis. So it comes down to cost of operation. The comments about the small electric heaters helped me rethink how I was able to be comfortable in my travel trailer this past winter with 2 small electric heaters (1500 watt each) with a propane Mr. Heater for the sub-zero type temps. This in an '84 trailer with whatever passed for insulation in that era. I KNOW my coach will be better insulated. I believe I'll insulate, and not finish the floor and see how things are this winter with the same two heaters. Thanks for the comments. Don
Dave5Cs,
If you decide to replace the board in your furnace, we have found that the Dinosaur brand is much better than the OEM. You can get rid of the blowing cold air when the furnace fails to fire.
Good luck.
Tom Caffrey
Tom Thanks, but i already got a Dino board and just haven't put it in yet. When we got the bus it was in but wasn't working So I rebuilt it new Sail switch and all else. I also got a remote board extend unit for the board. I put the unit back in but haven't hook up the extend unit. Just haven't needed to use the heater. When we have we turn on the little cube and it works well for very little cost.
Dave Walker