I have a 6v71 in my 1969 fishbowl. What is required to switch the fuel filters to spin on? Or is it even possible?
Napa sell the primary and secondary base for spin on filter a easy change out they go in the same place with the same bolt pattern will cost you some where in 50 bucks ea range
That's sounds easy and cheap. Is the spin on just as good as the original?
Better by far
Awesome, thanks for the info.
Hey Kid,
I've got a used set I'll sell you for $50 plus shipping. I'll throw in a set of new filters, as well.
If you're interested, PM me your address and I'll work up a shipping quote.
Bob
AND...... always carry spares and a small container of fuel to pre-fill them before installing. Oh, and a metal strap type oil filter wrench of the proper size. Example:
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Oil-Filter-Wrenches/_/R-SER772159_0405868278 (http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Oil-Filter-Wrenches/_/R-SER772159_0405868278)
Great advice thanks!
This is where i just got mine. IIRC it was 127.00 for two tops and 2 sets of each filter.
http://dieselpro.com/detroit-diesel-parts/6v71-engine/fuel-pump-bomba-combustible.html (http://dieselpro.com/detroit-diesel-parts/6v71-engine/fuel-pump-bomba-combustible.html)
Why do you want to change? Why are spin-on filters better? I was going to change mine one time and got talked out of it. My bus came with a pile of filters so I thought I should at least use them up. If I can recall the spin on filters cost more. When I change my filters I can see exactly what they have caught. If I were to go through the trouble to change mine I would go to the see through filter that shows how dirty it is by the level of the fuel in the filter.
Like this: http://www.davco.com/DFP-_fp382.htm (http://www.davco.com/DFP-_fp382.htm)
Now you have me wondering. I might have to get more feedback before I make a possible change. I was think spin on would be easier.
a 3442 NAPA fuel water separator makes a world of difference.
the old socks have been obsolete for years, DD stopped putting them on new engines around the 80's....
luvrbus says "better by far". I am sure he will explain that when he shows up. NAPA still sells the old filter cartridges. Spin-on filters are more of a convenience for the mechanic I have been told. Your bus will run just fine with either type you choose and obsolete does not necessarily mean improved in this case. If what you have is working, put your money to better use somewhere else.
Agree Barn Owl, The spin on are nicer/easier but sure not better, just like the conversion to the spin on oil filter vs the cartridge, NAPA/Wix has the change over kit for that too.
Dave M
When you need to change fuel filter,s on the road, you'll appreciate avoiding the mess from the fuel when changing, just like using the old style oil filters. If money is really tight or you spent it all for those aluminum wheels, just stay with the socks.
The less messy change out on the road is why I wanted to convert. I'm leaning towards the spin on for sure. This was all great advise, thanks.
One time digging the sock filter out of the fuel pump you will love the spin on filters btdt ???
Quote from: luvrbus on August 09, 2014, 06:33:47 AM
One time digging the sock filter out of the fuel pump you will love the spin on filters btdt ???
and be thankful the pump was there to stop it... :o
Kid,
Having dealt with both installations, there's no doubt in my mind that spin on filters are better. Even if it's only for the convenience factor, there's nothing wrong with convenience for the mechanic, especially if the mechanic is you. :)
Money well spent, IMHO.
Bob
What would cause a sock filter to come apart? If you keep them changed and not put one in that was dry rotted and stored in the battery compartment you should be fine. That scenario would be a side of the road downer for sure to deal with. How often does that happen? Rare enough that I am sure I probably would never see that failure. luverbus being in the business has seen every type of failure known, and in my book he is the authority here on this board. I am for weighing the cost vs. benefit of changing what you have that is working. If it was 1 in 100 odds I would change it, 1 in 1000 I would not. I would agree that the oil filter spin-on is much better, but I change my socks without a mess, no problem there. I must have gotten the hang of it.
The old socks with the metal center were not all that bad coming apart but they still would sometimes,the new one with the plastic and cardboard centers are terrible, there is not much difference in price of the spin on and canister type in fact the canister type are costing more at most places
The best would be to convert the canister socks to paper type filters. Most engine manufacturers are now using canister type filters with paper (like what spin ons have) filter elements. My bus came with the spin on fuel filters, but I have since changed the oil filter and the transmission filter to spin on. Much easier to change. Good Luck, TomC
Tom-- I assume you meant that your bus came with canister filters.
My previous bus had canister filters, and I managed with them although they are more of a nuisance to service than spin-ons would be. My normal tendency would be to do just that. However, if the change was a mere $50 bolt on, I would definitely do it. This bus has spin-ons-- definitely preferable.
My fuel filters had already been changed to spin on when I bought the bus. But the engine oil filter and the transmission filter were both canister using paper element. Always seemed to leak. Changed both to spin on and love the difference. Surprisingly, the big spin on filters are not that expensive. Good Luck, TomC
Spin on filters, it was an improvement, just go with it.
Going with the spin on. Thanks for the information all. Very helpful and insightful.
Go with a Fuel Pro. You should be able to pick up a used one at a truck junk yard. Much better than spin on's. They are way better than spin on's just as spin on's are way better than canister.
The main advantage to the Davco FuelPro filter, is that you'll always know when to change the filter. The FuelPro looks like an upside down filter with the clear bowl at the top of the filter. As the filter gets dirty, the fuel rises in the filter till the fuel comes even with the "change filter" line. No debate when it needs changing. Plus, it can be ordered with either electric or coolant heating and it is a drainable fuel/water separator. The main reason I haven't changed is that my starter override is on the secondary filter (after the fuel pump before the engine). I would have to eliminate that with the FuelPro. Course, maybe run the FuelPro with the secondary? Good Luck, TomC
Well my coach came with the spin on filters. I've always hated changing things that are still usable and it's impossible to tell when to change a spin on until you have a problem. After looking at this thread, and googling the Davco, and how to change the filter (youtube videos are nice) I've decided that I'll be getting used fixtures (I'm frugal [cheap]) and switching. Seems that since you always have fuel in the housing there is less risk of having start up problems and not having to prime the system both of which seem to be a big plus. Thanks to all for the info.
Bob,
I received the filters. Thanks and that was quick :)
Thanks,
Dan
If you wonder which is which on the top in fine letters will be primary or secondary markings fwiw
Forget those fancy wonder filters. They are great, especially for the newer four cycle engines that use more precise injection systems. Just go with primary and secondary spin ons. Low in cost and have been used for millions of Detroits with no issues. I take a permanent magic marker and put date and mileage on each element. You can install a pressure sensor in head of filter wired to a dash light to warn of increasing restriction.
Or install a pressure gauge in top of the secondary filter when it starts reading low change the filters
I change mine every year. It is not like it is a lot of money!
JC
Especially if you get them on sale. I get mine each winter/spring during the Napa Gold Filter sale.
OT but the best buy on filters takes place when the DD dealers have their spring sale both fuel filters and the oil filter comes in a pack for under 20 bucks I always bought mine from Pacific Power or WW Williams fwiw
Dan,
Your welcome. Glad they arrived in one piece (or 4 pieces).
Bob
Ok I'm new here and always learning. My 4106 has the canisters for fuel filters, motor and transmission has spin-on filters. I'm doing a lot things to this bus to update and service. The one thing I haven't done yet is the fuel filters, the main reason, I have read somewhere that you better not lose the prime and opening the fuel filter would cause that to happen. So, how does one change out the filters without losing prime? That is the last thing I want to do. Thanks
While you are changing over to spin ons, good time to install an inline electric fuel pump. Makes filling filters super easy.
Example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DIESEL-FUEL-PUMP-10PSI-14PSI-ELECTRIC-INLINE-EXTERNAL-12-Volt-35GPH-3-8-LINE-/310922614018?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item48646e9502&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/DIESEL-FUEL-PUMP-10PSI-14PSI-ELECTRIC-INLINE-EXTERNAL-12-Volt-35GPH-3-8-LINE-/310922614018?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item48646e9502&vxp=mtr)
I found a place I can buy the Racor filter with the built in primer for 84 bucks not bad and they work to prime a old DD www.4land4sea.com (http://www.4land4sea.com),spin on filters are a lot easier to prime that the old antique canister type IMO I also think the inline pumps are great
No kidding, the old cannister are half again heavier, if not more, the element moves around and its bigger and more awkward to install, thank you Clifford for showing me all that, tom...
Lol make a believer out of one Tom when you see the old fuel pressure go from 6 lbs to 40 at idle
Cosmo,
I have one more set of the spin on filter heads, if you'd like to make the upgrade. Same deal as Thekid's: $50 + shipping. As with Thekid, I'll include two new filters.
If you're interested, PM me your zip code and I'll get a shipping quote.
As for losing prime, just fill the filters full, which is much easier with the spin on filters. When you start the engine, manually raise the rpms a little, for 30 seconds or so, and you should be fine.
Bob