I am looking at a house to buy that has a 30x48 pole building. Interior clearance appears to be 13 feet. My bus is 12'-9" tall. The driveway to the building has a slight angle to it. Would you buy this house with this building? Do you think the bus would fit?
I cannot test the fit in the garage because the overhead door is only 12 feet and would need to be changed. There are also light fixtures sticking down that need to be moved. The RV stored in there now is a smaller Class C that fits fine. The only reason I would buy this house would be for the existing building.
I wouldn't, and it has nothing to do with the clearances. I'd buy a house that I actually want, then put up a cheap pole building or steel barn for the toys.
Cheers, John
Most cities don't allow pole type buildings unless I want to commute 35 to 40 miles or more every day. I wouldn't mind the drive quite so much if congestion wasn't so bad and getting worse. There will be no new capacity added to our highways unless they finally decide to raise road taxes. All of the highway money is basically going to repairs now.
The house with building is nice, but not exactly what I would want. I don't know that I will ever find a house that exactly meets my needs in my price range. I can't afford to build new because land prices are too high. There is a house that I really like, but it needs $50K+ in repairs and the bank wants too much for it. I could build a building there that meets my needs.
I don't have a bunch of money to build a building so a house with existing building is better because I can just take out a mortgage.
I'm with John...I'd buy a house I like with the property to build if it didn't already have a barn. I think after all the houses I've owned, the next one I am building. I'm tired of all the crap you have to deal with in a pre-built house. It's almost cheaper to do it yourself than fix everything up! Especially the new houses.
-Sean
I am looking for a house in the L.A. area. I've found that horse properties will allow "barns". It seems I need at least .6 acre to accomplish this. I have found a couple of places, but still a bit expensive (in the 7 digit range).
A 60ft x 40ft steel building would cost around $50,000. Good luck, TomC
Not a single one of our opinions is worth the paper it is written on.
Only you can answer the question. Even though there are a gazillion factors that go into buying a house the bottom line is always if it works for you, and we cannot possibly begin to know what is right for you.
As to the 3" of clearance........Not a problem. I literally have 1/2" height clearance to get the tail of my bus into my garage if I raise the front air bags all the way up, and lower the rears all the way down. 3" would be no better or worse than 1/2" because if I do it wrong I am either going to have expensive repairs to the bus, the garage or both.
Quote from: Seangie on June 30, 2014, 08:59:29 AM
I'm with John...I'd buy a house I like with the property to build if it didn't already have a barn. I think after all the houses I've owned, the next one I am building. I'm tired of all the crap you have to deal with in a pre-built house. It's almost cheaper to do it yourself than fix everything up! Especially the new houses.
Building new is more expensive than existing in almost all cases where I live. $209,000 just to build a new house with well and septic not including land or garage. A lot costs $60,000 or more for 1 acre. There is a 7 acre lot for $60,000, but it is wet and very limited spot to build the house plus an architecture committee. It does allow horses though.
I am seriously looking at buying a 1980 house that requires some work if the bank will take a low enough offer. The price is about $40,000 too high for the condition. I would build a 2,000 square foot garage with this one. My realtor doesn't think they will go that low yet. I would take out a rehab loan to pay for most of the repairs so I can't DIY the repairs. DIY is great, but you do have to know what you are doing. I have seen plenty of DIY stuff that looks like crap.
I don't have airbags so I can't lower the bus. I'm thinking 3" is just not enough clearance to be safe. The driveway has a slight angle to it so that could reduce my clearance even more. I would have to replace the overhead door with a sliding door or something since there isn't enough clearance for an overhead door. I'm kinda thinking this one is out. I would prefer not to have a sliding door.
My brother in law had a similar situation but a very cleaver door man. His door goes up into the trusses. They had to make some minor truss renovations. it works great
I though I created a profile??
Alan Baker
84 Eagle 10
Brian,
My shop has 14' sidewalls with 13-6" ceiling height. The overhead door is 12.0. The MC-5 with roof raise and air conditioners is 11-10". No problem just go slow.
Fred
I would think the cheapest and least troubling way would be to lower the threshold a few inches.>>>Dan (Then add the difference to the bottom of the door) (A city slicker saw a barn that had two knotches cut in the top of the door header, he approached the farmer with the question of why??.Farmer said his mule had very long ears and they needed to clear the top of the door opening, slicker said why not just lower the threshold?. Farmer said, just like a slicker, it ain't his legs that are too long.>>>
Seems there are lots of opinions, but the question is WHAT do you think ? its yours one way or the other. Can you live with and enjoy it ?
Speaking of garage doors, I am having an issue with the electric opener on the 14 X 14 door, Apple Door is to arrive Wednesday AM. Has worked flawlessly for 12 years, the door beside it works great, think might be a problem with the safety eye guard, ust a guess.
Dave M
Quote from: belfert on June 30, 2014, 11:09:20 AM
The driveway has a slight angle to it so that could reduce my clearance even more.
Can you fill the drive way 40' out to make it level with the door? Or, if you know exactly how much drop you have your can figure out on paper if the bus will fit.
TOM
My bus has about 4" clearance to the trusses but won't fit under the lights in one of my shops. So I don't drive it under the lights, big deal. Lifestyle is about more than a house, or a garage, or a bus. If what you have found makes you happy, or gets you in a place to deal with things for a few years, go for it. Things don't make you happy, you make you happy.
Brian
Hi Brian, if it fits in ever other way, why not lower the floor in the area where the bus drives in and while your at it put a work pit in while lowering the floor, how great would that be? Lvmci...
Hummmmm, that sounds familiar.>>>D
I worked one time for a builder and I saw him jack and raise a house several inches one time. Not sure how this barn you are looking at is anchored but another approach to consider.
I agree with Barn Owl. You can rent Hydraulic jacks made for lifting a building. A little at a time or have a company do it. Fairly simple process. 1 Control used to move jack slowly and evenly. Then they would only have to extend framing and cover outside. Still would need permits etc.
One thing you did not mention is the peak of the roof across the bus or with the length of it. Is it a flat roof or sloped which way according to the entry of the bus?
I have attached a picture of the building. I have been told it is 13'-4" to the bottom of the trusses. The floor is just stone and not concrete. It is a pole building so no idea if the building could be raised. The driveway isn't sloped all that much. The driveway is also not much longer than you see in the photo.
Ive been thinking alot of your situation,and the one thought that i keep coming back to is( raising the ceiling). Could ya make a recessed ceiling like they do in house living rooms etc all the time, without jacking up the house ;) I think if You have a roll up door there might be some door left on the roll, and if not im thinking that an extra panel can be added for it to be longer. Ps..Just my idea and it takes ideas to make a decision..George.. :)
Brian said, "The floor is just stone and not concrete."
1. If that is the case and your 3" clearance is not enough, lower the floor for the bus.
2. Why don't you take your bus over to the property and see if it will fit? What is the high point on your bus? The A/C?
Just my $2 worth.
GaryD
Brian thats 7 inches. so cut the door frame up to the bottom of the trusses and put in a 14 foot door roll up in the trusses. Bottom of door set 1 inch above truss bottom. Should be enough room from the looks in the picture you have about 2 foot. All guesses without being there but if you really want it, it looks doable.
I just went thru a similar thing on a buying decision, similar situation except my bus is 11'6" clearance and I bought a place with a sloped drive (other direction - downward) and a 12' door. I did get a tape measure and checked it myself before buying. People said I wouldn't get it in there.. I did.
I have a GM so I dump the bags almost all the way, and have my wife get up on a ladder and watch the clearance. Now that I've done it a few times, it's the mirrors and width I have to watch, not the height.
Your door could probably be replaced with a 13' roll up because the 13'-4" will help allow for the tracks... My lights are mounted above the rafters, I can squeeze it in. I figured worst case, I might have to rent a small dozer and re-grade my approach ramp, but didn't need to.
The appraisers do not allow full replacement cost on the shop either, I could not build it for what I paid. Pole barns can't be easily raised because the poles are set in the ground.
Quote from: usbusin on June 30, 2014, 08:31:10 PM
2. Why don't you take your bus over to the property and see if it will fit? What is the high point on your bus? The A/C?
The current door is only 12 feet high. If I buy the house I will need to replace the door with something that has more clearance. I know the bus won't fit without changing the door.
I suspect I could have a pole building like this built new for around $25,000. At $250,000 I didn't think the house plus building is worth what they are asking, but they will probably take a lower offer after being on the market for a while.
After looking at the picture i think you could do both: lower the entrance a little and raise the driveway a little. That would probably be the least expensive solution.
TOM
The house I really want to get needs some rehab, but I would build a garage that is something like 36x56 with 16 foot walls if I want them. The bank is asking at least $30,000 too much based on the work needed on the house. My agent thinks the bank coming down that much is unlikely. House needs windows and some siding, complete heating/cooling system including duct work, rot repair from broken window, and all new flooring.
The house with the 13'4" clearance building is my second choice if the bank won't take my offer on the other house.
Brian in todays market the bank may just want to move it. An offer is just that. Give the lowest offer that is in your head and see if they bite. You just never know. Today they are holding them to try and start a biding war but if it doesn't work then they want to dump them and get them off the books.
If it's a gravel floor how about digging out 6 inches or so, if the poles are buried as they normally are in a pole building it might be the easiest solution
Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Tapatalk
Shoot yeah if it's gravel floor just dig the entrance down for now.
When you get ready to pour it in concrete dig the whole floor down 1 foot put yer rebar down and pour it 6 inches thick with fiber in the mix and you'll have a good hard floor with plenty of room to spare for jacking etc.
;D BK ;D
Considering the lot is nearly flat around 3 sides of the building wouldn't I just be collecting water if I lowered the floor by a foot? I talked to the company that built the building today. They said $3,000 to $5,000 to convert the overhead door to a roll-up door. The building was designed at 13'-4" to allow space for a door opener with a 12 foot overhead door. It is also designed to still have 13'-4" clearance even with a concrete floor.
If the numbers for construction work out in the morning I will be making an offer on the house that needs rehab. I just need to get the garage to come in around $42,000 or so.
For some reason I thought the lot was on a slope, if level then I would not lower the floor, I would look for another home and shop.
And there is always the old truckers' trick: Let air out of the tires to lower your bus...
Would this 13'-4" building work for me with a new door, yes. Would it be my ideal, no. It is way better than what I have now because I have no building and the bus has sat outside since I bought it. (I don't even have a house right now.)
The other house I was looking at doing a rehab on might not work out. The best price I got for a 40x50 garage with 16 foot walls is $51,000 with asphalt shingles, or $45,000 with steel pole barn type roof. The city will not allow pole buildings unless over 5 acres so that greatly increases price. I would have to drive at least another 10 miles each way to find a city that allows pole buildings on any lot. That would put me around 40 miles each way to work.
Quote from: belfert on July 01, 2014, 07:26:51 PM
Considering the lot is nearly flat around 3 sides of the building wouldn't I just be collecting water if I lowered the floor by a foot? I talked to the company that built the building today. They said $3,000 to $5,000 to convert the overhead door to a roll-up door. The building was designed at 13'-4" to allow space for a door opener with a 12 foot overhead door. It is also designed to still have 13'-4" clearance even with a concrete floor.
If the numbers for construction work out in the morning I will be making an offer on the house that needs rehab. I just need to get the garage to come in around $42,000 or so.
Brian,
You didn't do my math correctly! If you take the floor down by 1 foot and put in 6" of concrete you've only lowered it by 6"
Also from looking at the posted photo it makes the garage appear to be sort of higher on a mound then the rest of the surrounding area.
However if you are digging the floor out to pour concrete then while you have the bobcat or backhoe there doing the digging I see an easy fix for the slope of the yard and to divert water away from the shop.
As for;
Quote from: belfert on July 02, 2014, 09:31:17 AM
Would this 13'-4" building work for me with a new door, yes. Would it be my ideal, no. It is way better than what I have now because I have no building and the bus has sat outside since I bought it. (I don't even have a house right now.)
The other house I was looking at doing a rehab on might not work out. The best price I got for a 40x50 garage with 16 foot walls is $51,000 with asphalt shingles, or $45,000 with steel pole barn type roof. The city will not allow pole buildings unless over 5 acres so that greatly increases price. I would have to drive at least another 10 miles each way to find a city that allows pole buildings on any lot. That would put me around 40 miles each way to work.
Keep checking you'll find a builder that needs the work an will build it in your price range.
Also if it were me I'd be looking at 60' X 30' (or wider) rather than 50' as your bus is 43' long and when the engine compartment is open that gets closer to 47'. With a 50' shop that limits you pretty good to the amount of space in front of or behind the bus when working on major projects.
For your personal use I'd think that 60' X 35' would be ideal with a 14' X 14' door for the bus and 10 X 12 for the other side leaving 4' on on side of the bus 3' between the doors and 2' on the other side of the small doors.
I'd say you might even look into trying to find an Amish crew to build it. They could have the shop up in 1-2 days and then they'd have an electrician do the wiring for you. (actually you could wire it yourself to save $, just make sure when yer done it's inspected by the proper inspector.)
;D BK ;D
Quote from: B_K on July 02, 2014, 12:50:06 PM
Keep checking you'll find a builder that needs the work an will build it in your price range.
Also if it were me I'd be looking at 60' X 30' (or wider) rather than 50' as your bus is 43' long and when the engine compartment is open that gets closer to 47'. With a 50' shop that limits you pretty good to the amount of space in front of or behind the bus when working on major projects.
The builders who are any good around here are working their rear ends off. Some won't even bid on jobs unless they are really big. If a guy is desperate for work you have to wonder why he isn't busy like everyone else. The economy is doing pretty good here and a lot of construction guys (and gals) retired or switched careers doing the recession. The cheapest bid was from a lumber yard that also has a division that puts up pole buildings and garages. They probably have an advantage on materials pricing.
I'm actually thinking that 56x36 would be a good size, but it is also 16 square feet over the 2,000 square foot limit. It makes sense because the dimensions are divisible by 4. I need to able to deal with both the bus and regular cars so I want both a 14x14 overhead door and an 8x16 door on the gable end.
Quote from: belfert on July 02, 2014, 01:33:44 PM
The builders who are any good around here are working their rear ends off. Some won't even bid on jobs unless they are really big. If a guy is desperate for work you have to wonder why he isn't busy like everyone else. The economy is doing pretty good here and a lot of construction guys (and gals) retired or switched careers doing the recession. The cheapest bid was from a lumber yard that also has a division that puts up pole buildings and garages. They probably have an advantage on materials pricing.
I'm actually thinking that 56x36 would be a good size, but it is also 16 square feet over the 2,000 square foot limit. It makes sense because the dimensions are divisible by 4. I need to able to deal with both the bus and regular cars so I want both a 14x14 overhead door and an 8x16 door on the gable end.
Brian I didn't say desperate, I said one who needs the work. (our local Amish crews would use a job like yours to fill in a few days between big jobs like a complete house from beginning to end)
Also like you also said
"Some won't even bid on jobs unless they are really big."Try some of the smaller guys looking to make ends meet and build a name for themselves while doing it.
There is always a way if you look hard enough. I like your idea of the 56'X36 too.
;D BK ;D
The problem I'm running into is financing a building. I got two quotes of $52,000 from companies who specialize in garages and pole buildings. The bank requires that I hire one general contractor to oversee the construction of the garage and the work needed on the house. The two general contractors I talked with figured between $70,000 and $90,000 for the garage alone. I'm not sure either one would want to subcontract out the garage to one of the other two builders.
I just don't have enough cash to both put money down on a house and build the garage without financing for the garage.
We are in the process of purchasing 10 acres of land in NC. It's mostly wooded and we don't want to put an ugly metal building in or one of those aluminum canopy things because we don't want to ruin the appearance. The whole reason we want to be in the woods in the first place is to be a little closer to nature.
We have been looking at building a wood shelter (no walls) with 6x6 beams in concrete footer tubes 12' oc with 2x10" beams and a metal roof. I have a friend building a 3000 sq/ft version and his cost is $10,000 for materials. Ours will be a little over 12x48 and we project costs around $2000 in materials. The floor with be 6" of crush and run gravel to form a level pad to park the bus on. The pad will probably run another $1000 to have leveled and spread with labor and gravel.
Should be cost effective and aesthetically attractive nestled in our wooded lot. Since it isn't a "building" something like that may offer additional options in certain areas.
Something like this without the attached building...
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mountainbarnbuilders.com%2Fimages%2Fcustom%2Frv-storage.jpg&hash=8f73f5e4b49346228588496bd992cb431a3c1f53)
I very much doubt the city would allow something like a shelter with just a roof, but it couldn't hurt to ask. Of course, in Minnesota I would really want a full building.
Get permission to build a shelter first then as time goes on enclose it in and side it and nobody will know the difference!
;D BK ;D
Quote from: B_K on July 03, 2014, 03:18:50 PM
Get permission to build a shelter first then as time goes on enclose it in and side it and nobody will know the difference!
;D BK ;D
I've seen it the other way too. I know a guy that wanted a concrete pad but they wouldn't let him build it so he got approval for a large building and "ran out of money" after the foundation was poured.... ;D
DriverGT5
do yourself a favor and on the last 10 feet of the pad pour 6" of fiberglass infused concrete pad so that the buses engine and maintenance areas are over something level and hard surfaced. Trust me on this. It is a pain to jack up in gravel and lay on it to work on her.
We call that building in Drivers picture, a carport, quite common in the southwest, lvmci...
Tom that's no Carport that's a BUSPORT, LOL ;D
Dave5Cs
I've been looking at a different house I think would be almost perfect for me except for the $300,000 price. I also don't like the fact that it is heated with propane. Natural gas supplier wants $20,000 to extend the gas main further down the road. The building at this one is 56x36 with a 56x13 lean-to. Building seems to be fully finished inside and even has a bathroom.
I have a number of options available including the home with building with 13'-4" clearance. Home prices have gone up quite a bit since I put my home up for sale six months ago. I was hoping to spend under $200,000, but that part of the market is down to nothing.