My Brother in Law is using this on his 67 Mustang rebuild. Anyone here ever use it on their bus? How well does it work? I'm thinking it might be good on the underside to keep water out and rust from forming.
-Sean(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.tapatalk.com%2Fd%2F14%2F06%2F28%2F8ava5yny.jpg&hash=8d9d7c07f15ce9ecc869b40b6b425f924d2b58df)
I've used it in race car restorations. It is painted over converted rust (they have a phosphoric acid compound) and it forms a very glossy very hard paint surface. I quite like it. Don't get it on your fingers, it will not come off. Use plastic wrap over the can top if you reseal it, or the can top will not come off the can again. To me, it's a good product but they advertise it as a bit too much. It doesn't rebuild a Camaro just by painting the trunk floor.
Brian
We have used rubberized undercoater. Still have to paint rust converter on first. But is sticks really good and water runs off it like a duck. Again, don't get it on you. It's really hard to get off.
Don and Cary
Used a bunch of this stuff! Just do not get it on you and you will love the outcome. It was especially nice in areas that historically rust out. The final color is mat black so if you want some gloss you will need to paint. A bit expensive but worth every cent.
Grant
As Brian said, I know a ton of people that use it for car restorations, race car builds, frame painting, etc. It has a good reputation. I personally tend to powdercoat, but POR-15 is a cheaper and more DIY-friendly solution.
Cheers, John
Expensive. Everything Brian said X2. It will not come off your hands. I got some under and around my fingernails. It was there for weeks! I'm using it on the rear cap of my bus. I'm very happy with the results. Using it under your bus would be perfect use foe the stuff.
might work if you can coat the inside of the tubing... rusts just as bad from the inside out
Quote from: eagle19952 on June 27, 2014, 08:54:37 PMmight work if you can coat the inside of the tubing... rusts just as bad from the inside out
Yeah, works great. Is hard to work with, is PERMANENT (even if you don't want it to be), hard to store, and is expensive. I love it and hate it.
This will only eat the top layer of rust off and seals the rest from air so it can not continue. At least that's the theory. More like a primer sealer for final paint. If you want a good looking job it needs to be grinded down and sanded or emery clothed then applied at least two coats.
Only way to get rid of rust is to remove it and put in a new piece.
Por-15 is expensive, but works very well. -just ask any professional body shop. Por-15 bonds best when applied directly to minor surface rust. Heavy rust should be converted to zink-phosphate by using Fast Etch or Prep & Ready (both are phosphoric acid--Fast Etch is a higher concentration). New metal should be left to weather and rust before applying Por-15. Do not apply Por-15 to clean, rust free, metal.
Por-15 is not a primer. Por-15 needs to be deglossed by either sanding with 100 grit sandpaper (very time consuming--Por-15 dries hard like ceramic) or apply a thin coat of Tie-Coat Primer. POR-15 will accept all paints, including lacquer-based paints. Por-15 needs to be top coated if it will be exposed to direct sunlight.
Two coats of Por-15 are required, no exceptions. In the last picture, the bar on the left has one coat and the bar on the right has two coats. It was applied by brush and is fully cured in the pictures.
Preview. Click for full size.
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Ive got an Eagle, used lots of the stuff! Works great and tough as nails.