Hello :
Anyone have a preferred method of aligning a hub when installing on a front spindle?
I tried several times with the rear bearing and seal installed. Bummer had to remove the seal and install the seal and bearing first on the spindle then install the hub partially. Then tap the seal in from the back . i did this last summer in south dakota with the drum installed and it went on easily with the dolly provided.
I think part of the problem ( installing without the drum) is trying to balance the hub on a jack and get it straight enough to get the inner bearing onto the hub .
SO I guess I will do the other side with the drum installed..
I am wondering what experience others have had..?
WE decided to change the steering arm on the 7 as it was recalled and had the part. Whilst looking the front brakes over new drums, pads ,cams bushings, and seals were ordered and installed.
BTW the B4000B drum is the only one provided by MCI and I could not find it any other place. 260 bucks each..It was 130 a few years ago. Front and tag axles for the Wedge series 5 inch wide brakes. MCI 7,8, most 9s.. 96 inch wide coaches. Used some mohawk parts . The parts were about a grand for one axle.
The steering arm well that entailed some extra effort. I ended up building a puller consisting of 2 5/8 inch plates and 4 5/8 by 8 inch bolts. Made the thing and bent the plates when it was tightened. After some blue wrench work and beating for a long time it finally popped. now the revised arm is in place and ready to go.
Regards and happy bussin mike
I guess I don't understand the problem. The inner bearing goes into the race. The seal is pressed in behind that and holds it in place. The hub is placed
over the spindle and the outer bearing is inserted over the spindle followed by the nuts and washers. That's it. There's no aligning anything other than putting
the bearing hole over the spindle and pushing the seal onto the wiper.
I don't understand what you are having problems with. There should be no need for a jack or lift or anything. Coat the spindle with oil, lift up the hub, slide it
on the spindle.
Confused...
Sometimes you just don't mutter the right cuss words...
I have had one of 100 hubs just say no, the bearing to spindle clearance can just cock the tiniest fraction. Persistence just takes a steady will.
I have rigged a bar and choked the hub with a short strap to aid (balance) alignment while sliding on a stubborn hub....I put one end of the bar on my shoulder.
Goofy I know but it happens, next time line up your muttered cuss words first ;D
I will say that it's sometimes hard to get the inner bearing to seat all the way down on the spacer that the seal rides on, but I just assemble the hub with the bearing and seal installed, slide it on, and push. After I get it on as far as I can I install the outer bearing, the threaded nut and start tightening it down. I get it as tight as I can to pull it in, then set the clearance.
Brian
Same as Brian, just be careful not to damage the seal by letting it take any of the weight.
I've used jacks and hyd tables with wheels, depends on the situation.
Go to Stemco site for proper wheel end adjustment more to it gust tightening the nut.
In that case it might be easier if you have a precision jack and a greased board...leave the tires on....lotsa dump trucks been done that way.... :o
I guess I am with Gumpy, the only way I ever knew was to assemble inner bearing & seal, install on axle, then follow up with outer bearing, washer nut with either locknut or cotter pin, just pay close attention to the free play, Timken sez .001-.005 free play.
Simple, just do it.
Dave M
Im probably wrong but I still grease the bearings even though it runs in oil now on most, this uses more shop towels but sometimes the bearing is jacked and this I think helps somewhat. And always a little dab oil or grease on the spindle or axle tube, with a fill up in the hub housings too with proper lube, takes so long for oil to get past the bearings ( like three cokes.) or drive it out on the lot to the hill and then go turn around.
I also and no offense to brands always switch seals to a turn inside there self style, I prefer National but heck they all make them now, and 15 years ago they made the take apart kind not sure but I think stemco design. My choices were not under any fleet rule if they were it would be by the book .
I can still remember the looks some people gave me for putting a stripe of oil under the duals for removal or reinstall, man I had some weird looks.
mans gotta do what a mans gotta do, getter done.
I thought angels brought the first wheel jack dolly, wishing I had one now.
Don't think for a minute everybody else hasn't been there or will be there tomorrow.
Try sliding the inner bearing onto the spindle before installing it into the hub. Sometimes a little ridge forms on the leading edge of the inner bearing journal that simply "grabs" the bearing when trying to slide it on as an assembly. You may have to clean up that leading edge by emery cloth or even a fine file to make the process easier.
Indeed, usually you can detect any issues with the axle/hub during the clean up & inspect process, if it feels like a ridge etc, can clean up as required. All part of the job.
Loks like why sone shops seem to charge large $$$ for a normal simple job, I call it training the NEW traibee, OJT ?
Dave M
Hello Final thoughts on aligning hubs... The other side (passenger) slid in first try, no trouble at all with the bearing and seal installed in the hub.. GO figure.. SO the drive side must have been the 1 in a hundred that was a problem. I did install it as I said by removing the seal and bearing and installing them first. A bit of a job but it worked..
The wheels are on awaiting final torque with the torque wrench...
I need this job over so the summer vacation trip can begin.
Thanks for all the input.
Regards and happy bussing
mike
Now on to that pesky leak by the front windshield...
drive the bus a few yards, up and back, then jack up the wheels again and check for free play in the bearing. Both mine hung up a bit and I had to readjust them after a very short trip (out the driveway, down the road, this feels funny and the speedo doesn't work, back in the yard and fix it).
Brian