We will be towing a 28' dual axle trailer behind our 40' Eagle. The trailer has dual brake axles and a 7 pin connector.
Typically I run an inertia brake controller with a signal to the brake light wire. I don't see why I wouldn't be able to do the same on the bus.
How do you set the brake controller on the bus? Typically I set it so I don't feel the trailer pushing my truck and maybe feel a slight drag on the back but I doubt I'll feel a 9,000 lbs trailer "pushing" my bus and I'm afraid if I set the trailer brakes too stiff I'll burn the brakes up trying to stop a 36,000 bus or destroy a tire while blissfully unaware in my pillow back lazy boy. Any magic techniques?
Also my electrical panel in in the back of the bus and I would really like to avoid running my brake controller wires all the way up to the front of this monster. Any one put the controller in the back bay (set it and forget it?) or have one with a remote display? This is either one of my brilliant or really dumb ideas. Not sure which yet.
I know several of the members have chosen the Hayes Air-Actuated brake controller (http://www.amazon.com/Hayes-Air-Actuated-Brake-Control/dp/B001M22URG) and have had good results. Others are just as happy with an inertia activated controller, like the Prodigy (http://www.amazon.com/Tekonsha-Brake-Controller-v-2-6/dp/B006UH5CB4/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1402013943&sr=1-4&keywords=Prodigy+brake+controller+inertia). Both types of controllers work well. As far as I know, every brake controller on the market has a calibration procedure to adjust the braking strength. The brakes will not lock and skid the trailer tires when set up correctly. Carefully follow the setup instructions-- You won't have any expensive mistakes. ;)
Technically speaking, it is possible to mount the brake controller anywhere-- however, I wouldn't recommend it. As the weight of the trailer changes with different loads, you will need to be able to adjust the braking strength from the driver seat.
Here is one I highly recommend, have installed quite a few of these
http://www.smibrake.com/air-force-one.html (http://www.smibrake.com/air-force-one.html)
Now that I finally have my tow hitch installed, I'll be puttin' one on mine. :)
You should find some extra wires going to the back panel from the front panel to wire the controller into. I have never had problems finding extra wires on a Eagle to install a controller in the drivers area then dropping to the plug from the rear panel
good luck
Quote from: Van on June 05, 2014, 05:33:57 PM
Here is one I highly recommend, have installed quite a few of these
http://www.smibrake.com/air-force-one.html (http://www.smibrake.com/air-force-one.html)
Now that I finally have my tow hitch installed, I'll be puttin' one on mine. :)
I'm assuming that his trailer has electric brakes....not electric over hydraulic drum trailer brakes.
The Air Force is for a toad it uses air to make a vacuum to apply the toads brakes it won't work on all systems
The trick set up is to convert your trailer to hydraulic disc brakes. Then you have the controller that is mounted on the front of the trailer use a single air brake can to operate it. You'll have perfectly balanced brakes on the trailer, and the air brake can will provide positive parking brake. Then it just operates like your bus brakes. Good Luck, TomC
I have a Maxbrake brake controller that uses an air pressure sensor to monitor how much braking is being used. I plugged it into an unused port on my brake valve. Unfortunately, it appears the product ceased production last summer. One of the big distributors of the product claimed they stopped production due to too much demand. Who stops selling something if demand is too high?
I would think the integrated brake controllers available on nearly every pickup now was killing sales.
Quote from: TomC on June 06, 2014, 06:41:11 AM
The trick set up is to convert your trailer to hydraulic disc brakes. Then you have the controller that is mounted on the front of the trailer use a single air brake can to operate it. You'll have perfectly balanced brakes on the trailer, and the air brake can will provide positive parking brake. Then it just operates like your bus brakes. Good Luck, TomC
By the time I had converted to hydraulic disks, I think I would add a surge brake system. No hook-ups and works with any tow rig. I am not sure why someone hasn't come up with a electric
lock-out (for backing) hooked to the back-up lights.
LOL 250+ for the air 40+ up for integrated controller you may have hit on something Brian, Hayes still makes one
I think the integrated controller probably adds more than $40 to a vehicle, but nobody cares when it adds a buck or two a month to their car payment. They do care if they have to come up with $250+ out of pocket and possibly pay someone to do the install.
The Hayes air actuated controller isn't much less cost than the Brakesmart was and looks really old fashioned, but the lack of electronics might be a good thing.