I want to use some thing different than the typical floresent lights. On some high end coaches they use some type of can light. Is it possable to use an under cabinet light such as a halogen or xenex what did you guys and gals use?
Thanks Leroy
Leroy,
I used a 12v recessed light in the bedroom over the windows. Most RV supply houses have these in many differant colors from white to bronze. I think I bouth these from www.ronthebusnut.com .
I also used some 120v halogen swivel lights, not recessed but you can direct the light. Bought these a Home Depot.
There are many choices available almost anywhere.
Paul
Dreamscape
Halogen. Home Depot and Lowes. Very bright, cheap, and don't get them near anything that'll burn. They get hot.
LEDs are coming into vogue....expensive...but? Halogen is king right now. I use a group of HD halogens that were grouped to use on a transformer. They will work on 12V DC with no problem. Just don't use the 120VAC switches with 12VDC. Gonna let some smoke out. You know these things are all powered by smoke inside the wires? You should know this. Electronics 101. Richard will soon describe how it all works. I don't know that part. Richard will get it right the first time too!
Halogen is the least expensive, cool looking lites avail. Rope lights, and other high tek may interest, but $$ will get your attention.
There's always RV incandescent...cheap, works. Not as much light as a Halogen. Halogen has sex appeal too...nice long shadows with very light focused areas. Great potential within this schema.
Best, JR 8)
I started out using HD halogen lights in my bus but then when I got up near the front, I wanted something different and opted to buy 3 inch round 12v puck lights at a local R/V conversion shop. They come in polished chrome, polished brass, and satin finish. They are easy to install and are flush mounted, look attractive and cost 10 bucks each not mention, they give off a good bit of light when coupled together!
Here you can almost see the puck lights and how I grouped them!
ACE, how much did you say that you charged for a headliner? A simple Ozite deal you know? Your headliner is cool.
I think I got some credits coming for the use of the RH front corner of my bus in your pix (actually Gary's pix of your MC hitch)....guess who's joined you ? Would this get me a like half a headliner? I supply the material of course...and libations. (I'm doing a pretty good job of that tonight!).
Sorry for hijacking the thread...back to lighting. be sure and separate the halogen lighting that is bought from Lowes or Home Depot. They will work individually on 12VDC.
Cheers, JR
JR the only thing I have in the headliner is my time and the cost of the material which included the 2 layers of plywood, (one sub ceiling, one covered) vinyl, staples, contact, hidden fasteners, puck lights, wiring, and mirrors!
It's actually not that hard. Just very time consuming!
As for the picture credits? You'll need to take that up with the photographer! He has very few words, if any at all, for me anymore so I can't say much!
Thanks...
Ace
I used 5 overhead and 4 on the side, puck 20 watt halogen. Have replaced the four with Xenon 10 watt and can't really tell the difference, except they don't get so hot. Bought mine at Home Depot as extra add ons (no transformer) and wired straight to 12v. Mine are surface mount and suggest you do the same since they get hot. Would use them again. Good Luck, TomC
I bought mine lights at home depot, 12V halogen, I use 120V 3way switchs with no problem, no smoke here.
e switches that I recommended not using are the switches that come with the pucklites that are ganged together for undercounter installation. A 110V wall switch seems to work OK. The tiny rocker switch will burn...ask me how I know. Richard explained the rationale but I forget. Everything in my bus is fused, but I was smelling something that was electrical in nature and burning...or very hot, but no fuses were blowing...and bus 24V was off. Finally related the odor to the sink lite and found it in the 3 puck assembly that I modified to 12V. Removing the transformer and wiring the lights into 3 parallel was more than the switch could handle. I installed an automotive DTSP switch in place of the 110V rocker switch (which was burned) and that works great, and it allows either one light, or all three to be selected...depending on boony or power pole. We use our bus in non-powered conditions frequently, so having the ability to use minumal lighting holds down battery use. I've got 18 of the little puck lights installed and they are no problem, other than a little hungry if all are on.
Cheers, JR
I used the cheap under cabinet lights from Wal-Mart. I don't recommend that. They were way too bright and focused light on a small area. If you stood right by it, it would blind you, but walk a few inches away and you can't see your hand in front of your face...
Jimmy
Whatever you buy just remember to check to see what type of lense they have (ie. spot,flood, etc.) for the use intended -HTH
Saw some of those puck lights (under Counter) at Big Lots the other day. About 12-14 bucks for 3 with wiring harness.
Quote from: NJT5047 on December 12, 2006, 09:04:27 PM
Halogen. Home Depot and Lowes. Very bright, cheap, and don't get them near anything that'll burn. They get hot.
LEDs are coming into vogue....expensive...but? Halogen is king right now. I use a group of HD halogens that were grouped to use on a transformer. They will work on 12V DC with no problem. Just don't use the 120VAC switches with 12VDC. Gonna let some smoke out. You know these things are all powered by smoke inside the wires? You should know this. Electronics 101. Richard will soon describe how it all works. I don't know that part. Richard will get it right the first time too!
Halogen is the least expensive, cool looking lites avail. Rope lights, and other high tek may interest, but $$ will get your attention.
There's always RV incandescent...cheap, works. Not as much light as a Halogen. Halogen has sex appeal too...nice long shadows with very light focused areas. Great potential within this schema.
Best, JR 8)
A lamp that draws one amp at 120 volts will draw 10 amps at 12 volts. Therefore if you are using a switch to control several lamps that are designed for 120 volts then when you remove the transformer and start running them on 12 volts the current will increase by a factor of ten.
A switch rated for ten amps at 120 volts would run ten lights. The same switch when used with 12 volt input would only operate one lamp.
Richard
Richard explained it as well as it can be said.
DC is more likely to burn things up because it is steady. AC cycles between +120v and -120v so it allows at least a small amount of cooling off.
Thanks guys for all the help with lights . I'm still looking.
Leroy
Quote from: brojcol on December 13, 2006, 01:11:10 PM
I used the cheap under cabinet lights from Wal-Mart. I don't recommend that. They were way too bright and focused light on a small area. If you stood right by it, it would blind you, but walk a few inches away and you can't see your hand in front of your face...Jimmy
I used the cheap under counter lights from Lowes and they work pretty good...once past the switch issue. Left them in the not too bad looking metal case, but removed the transformer so that they would work on 12V DC. They are apparently "flood" lenses. The light is all directed down, but it is diffused. Installed a boat running light 12V switch so that either one or all three lights could be selected. Been pleased with them. The running light switch allows either one post switched hot or both posts switched hot. Keeps from feeding back.
Installing them in the box kept the lights assy pretty much out of sight, but no holes in the cabinets. A double panel on the over the sink cab would have solved this in a more workmanlike manner...but, hey...hindsight is 20/20.
The metal box is a good heat sink too...and the halogens get pretty warm.
JR
Leroy,
Just finished getting my 110Vac lights in this weekend.
Found some 3" can lights at Lowes.
You will of course need a little ceiling room above to mount them, though not much.
I removed the service box on top of the light to gain some space.
Have a nice eye that can be aimed in any direction or rotated as needed. Uses the GU10 bulb.
Only protrudes less than 1/4" below the ceiling. Only saw in white trim.
I modified the tabs used to push flush to ceiling by drilling holes in them to attach from the bottom.
This allows for full removal later to get to wiring or replacement.
Best of luck,
Cliff