Does anyone out there have a 19020413 delco regulator for your 50DN ? If so how is it wired ? Ground is Ground. Field to F1 on the alternator. Battery to Battery. Ignition one of two places 1 from the battery or 2 from ignition 12 volt.Sense to plus side of shunt or not hooked up at all. Also is there a ground strap from F2 on the alternator to the case ?
Thank You
Wayne
Mine is 24 volt so not like yours.
What bus?
Wayne I'll look when I get home Tuesday, but I'm pretty sure I won't have the right one with yours being 12V an all the buses I deal with being 24V
;D BK ;D
BK thank you, I have learned that the regulator I have is a newer sealed type and not like the older black boxes. Gus I am adding it to the 15 I am building to run one of my Ac's while going down the road. The other thread that is going on has been helpful in figuring this out. I have also had some off air help.
Wayne
I assume you mean an Eagle 15?
The reason I asked is mine has only three connections, but it is 12V so I didn't want to confuse things.
So is the new style regulator the digital type ?
I have the new digital regulator. Instead of a big black box, the digital is about the size of a cigarette pack. Good Luck, TomC
What is a digital regulator?
I'm guessing you mean a solid state!
Gus /Clifford Mine is solid state and has five connection points and is 4 X 6 X 1 inches but is not digital. It does have a small screw to adjust the voltage, but that screw is painted over. This is a delco product.
Wayne
No Gus a digital regulator is different from the old solid state,the digital is a better regulator IMO
Rusty,
Gene can answer your question.
http://www.manta.com/c/mmcrc17/southern-eagle-mfg-inc (http://www.manta.com/c/mmcrc17/southern-eagle-mfg-inc)
OK, so just exactly what is a digital VR? Does it show digits somewhere?
I have a digital voltmeter on my dash but it has nothing to do with digital regulation, it is just a digital meter?? I don't have any idea what digital regulation is??
Balmar makes one...
A voltage regulator is basically just a switch that turns the field coil on and off very rapidly so that the alternator output voltage tracks a set voltage. When the field coil is off, the VR senses the battery voltage, when it is on the VR senses the output voltage. A "solid state" regulator of the old style did this with some resistors in a voltage divider arrangement, a zener diode and this drove a transistor output section that sent the voltage to the field coil. A digital voltage regulator would just do this same job with some integrated circuits like computer chips instead of separate resistors and diodes, probably do it far more accurately and far faster while running cooler and using less power, and probably control a MOSFET output device instead of a transistor.
Brian
There never was any question about what a VR is.
That isn't my definition of digital.
Solid state simply means no mechanical parts or vacumn tubes with transistors replacing them. The old 50DN VR like mine is partly solid state and partly mechanical, the newer ones are all solid state components mounted on circuit boards, and sometimes encapsulated, because they are so small.
None of this has anything directly to do with digital. To me digital means a direct numbers display instead of needles and dials. I don't see any way a VR can be digital?? I'm willing to be enlightened!
Think a about digital recorders, gauges can be digital with needles , cameras,TV's sound, the list goes it is the same with the voltage regulators it done with a micro processor
Gus, unfortunately your interpretation of digital is wrong. Devices with displays that are numbers are numerical displays, and while they almost always have digital circuits making them work, the display isn't what makes them digital. What makes them digital is that their circuits use on/off voltages, ones and zeros if you will, and use Boolean algebra to make their circuits work. Computers, micro processors, simple timing circuits, circuits to make numerical displays work, all are digital circuits. Pure sine wave inverters are digital circuits, which I found interesting. There is a long conversation to be had on the merging of analog and digital circuits and subsequent issues with accuracy vs precision but that can wait for another day.
Brian
Brian,
Thanks, you make it much clearer. Ones and zeros I understand in microprocessor circuits, Boolean algebra, no - I'm not that smart!! They are widely used in computers and other electronics as you well know.
However, I can't relate any of this to a bus digital VR or even any reason to make it more complicated. Is it because they just lately started using digital circuits? I'm still open to learn!
All VRs, even the old mechanical ones used on/off switching operation even though all VRs are mostly analog, they just weren't solid state or electronic. Early mechanical ones were even used vibrators that were simple bi-metal switches!
I've never seen an electronic/electric gage/display called a numerical display, they're all called digital that I know of? I can only assume this is because they display both number and alpha digits. Early ones were even displayed on small drums (odometers) and had nothing to do with electrical/digital circuits.
I can't find anything like this on the net? Is there a name or model for this bus digital VR so I can look it up and educate myself?
Where is this going???????????
not much help for Wayne.
Bruce
Gus, try Ample Power or Balmar just 2 brands off the top of my head,I have a Ample Power "smart regulator" only way to go IMO with house batteries charging off the engine alternator
Quote from: luvrbus on February 28, 2014, 04:54:34 AM
Gus, try Ample Power or Balmar just 2 brands off the top of my head,I have a Ample Power "smart regulator" only way to go IMO with house batteries charging off the engine alternator
Interesting stuff here: [url]http://www.amplepower.com/phpBB3/index.php]http://www.amplepower.com/phpBB3/index.php] [url]http://www.amplepower.com/phpBB3/index.php (http://[url=http://www.amplepower.com/phpBB3/index.php)[/url]
even MORE interesting stuff HERE: http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/33042-inexpensive-high-capacity-alternators.html (http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/33042-inexpensive-high-capacity-alternators.html)
Thanks, I find "smart VRs" which are phased charging, but nothing about digital?
Why are they better for house batts? I just connect mine to the starts while underway. Do you have two alternators?
Back to Wayne;
Can you tell us exactly what model your Delco VR is and the number of connections on the VR?
I got lost on your description of what went where. If you have an F2 terminal on the VR it must be for two alternators?
The VR is model number 19020413 (Delco Remy ). t\There are 5 connections, Ground, Field, Battery, Ignition, Sense.
Wayne
Thanks!
Here is a decent ad. There is a video showing that regulator in action.
http://shop.pkys.com/Balmar-ARS-5-Regulator-12-Volts-No-wiring-harness_p_151.html (http://shop.pkys.com/Balmar-ARS-5-Regulator-12-Volts-No-wiring-harness_p_151.html)
My understanding is that when you have software based code to perform mechanical switching or regulation, that is the basis of digital.. The Balmar does have Eprom to allow different ramp rates and charging rates.. A non digital regulator would not allow you these multiple features.
As a disclaimer, Balmar built me a customer regulator to control my 450Amp 24 volt alternator.. The standard OEM supplied regulator could not provide the charging and temperature control and ramp rate that I needed for my 8 each house Deka AGM's..
Wayne,
I just stumbled across this on the WanderLodge forum (http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6023&page=4 (http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6023&page=4)) which may be of some help;
<<<<<<<<<<<<
"The original Delco-Remy voltage regulator (big, black, with fins and three terminals, one ground, one field, and one 12vdc coming from the ignition switch) is Delco-Remy p/n 1118443 and is no longer made. If it is bad, there is a replacement. However, to stop the bouncing, one of our members forwarded a BB drawing showing their fix of using clean 12vdc from a battery stud through a relay operated by the 12vdc from the ignition switch. This works.
Delco-Remy says the replacement is p/n 10503807, a five wire regulator. This is a kit p/n that includes the regulator p/n 19020413 (see prior erroneous info from DR technical), a jumper clip, and some instructions. The instructions reference a voltage adjustment screw in a hole, but it is not in a hole, but is a tiny brass screw covered with brown sealer on the surface of a small blue device protruding from the potting material. This regulator does not need the relay as there is one internal and separate terminals for battery and ignition.
The relay seems to have fixed the old regulator, but I now have a new spare which I might just install anyway."
>>>>>>>>>>>>
I think this ignition switch relay may be the solution to my problem since I can't get a full 12v from the switch to my VR the way it is now wired.
Forgot to ask, what did you hook to the Sense post?
I also found this wiring diagram.
http://www.delcoremy.com/Documents/Alternator-Service-Manuals/50VR-RETROFITTING-50VR-VOLTAGE-REGULATORS-10503992.aspx (http://www.delcoremy.com/Documents/Alternator-Service-Manuals/50VR-RETROFITTING-50VR-VOLTAGE-REGULATORS-10503992.aspx)
Thank You Gus, I must have got the RV that the wanderlodge guy sent back. I have the same instruction sheets that you posted. Now things are starting to make sense. Yes my RV has the same adjustment screw that is sealed. I have not hooked up anything yet, but it looks like the sence connection should be connected close to the batteries to get a clean signal. I am now thinking I mite look into the smart RV.
Wayne
Sense should go as close to the batt as possible.
If you can't find a connection for "Sense" close to the VR which has exactly the same voltage as the batt then you should run a wire directly from the batt. Otherwise the alt will overcharge the batt because it thinks the batt voltage is lower than actual.
Or, as in the drawing, connect Bat and Sense together if your Bat wire is the same as the batt +terminal.
My problem is this Bat wire is not full batt voltage so I'm going to use the cube relay to do it. The good part is my batts are just 6" below my VR.