Hey All -
Ive got some questions about getting the Turbo rebuilt on our bus. Need some ideas for the best way to approach this and some suggestions for a good shop to do the work.
For starters - Ive attached a picture of the ID plate on the turbo. Also a picture of the engine that shows a side view of the turbo and a picture of the engine that you can see the oil buildup on the pipe coming out of the turbo that goes into the engine (intercooler?). Im assuming that the ID plate has some information about the make/model and setup of the turbo. If there are any views that would help answer some questions, let me know and I'll post more pics.
Here are the questions that I have -
1. Costs - Ive been told this can be way up in the thousands to have the turbo rebuilt? Is this realistic?
2. How long should it take the turbo off get it rebuilt and put back on?
3. Is there a "newer" model of turbo that we can put on? How specific are the parts/pieces that we need to replace? Are they common or hard to find?
The turbo is currently working but noticeable issues are - the turbo is slow to speed up (smoke on acceleration), oil is leaking around the (seal?) and at the pipe coming out of the turbo into the engine, while driving at speed we will get little puffs of black smoke - so faint that if you are not paying attention you probably couldn't see them but they are there. I think this is from the oil leaking at the seal.
In the condition it's in, we could probably drive it for a while before we would have serious problems with it but I'd rather start getting things squared away now and take care of it in my own time.
I know nothing about fixing or repairing turbos, only a basic understanding of how they work so any insight is appreciated.
Thanks again guys.
-Sean
Model - TV7101
Part Number 5103760
Serial Number 03163-8127
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Just exchange it you will need to know the injectors size to make changes that is a good turbo for a 6V92 you can change the a/r on the hot housing to make it spool faster but you give up the high end torque that is your choice low end torque or high end torque which ever suits you best
Exchange turbos are no where close to thousands of dollars more like the 600 dollar range
Give Tom a call at Turbo ReSource in Lake Havasu @928-505-4610 he will have one in stock lol he would love to sell one for thousands of dollars
good luck
Here are some 6v92 and Gilliig schoolie parts. Located in Santa Barbara, CA 4 pallets of parts. Open up the excel file and you will see the list of parts. 2 Turbos included, aftercooler, etc. Current bid is $300
http://www.publicsurplus.com/sms/all,ca/auction/view?auc=1029430 (http://www.publicsurplus.com/sms/all,ca/auction/view?auc=1029430)
You have a relatively easy turbo access. Sans any frozen/broken bolts, you should be able to get the turbo out in about an hour. Good Luck, TomC
Clifford, that's an Eagle engine compartment? And you prefer them to GMC's? ??? ??? Looks like a good money maker repair businesses.
You could get a Reliabilt turbo from any DDC dealer if the other options don't suit. Their price could be higher though.
Yep that is 10s a little tight Chessie but believe or not you can still stuff a 8v92 in there without much trouble sets up right and straight too ::) bend over and look on the right side and you can see the starter
Cliff - I think it took all of 10 minutes to bolt the starter on. And I'm sure youve seen the air filter video! :-D
www.herdofturtles.org (http://www.herdofturtles.org)
1984 Eagle Model 10S
LOL Cheesie owns a sidewinder he gives me a bad time but it's all it fun
Lets talk about clutch or drop box... oh wait...I don't know where it is on a GMC. ::)
No they missed out on that part but it makes in easy to install a modern engine with a Allison World 6 speed I don't see many GM with a 60 series and a b500 I have seen a lot of clutches on Gm's come to think of it both wet and dry :-\
The items you name thinking the turbo is bad are normal. If you had a turbo with the bearings and seals going out you would have oil coming out the exhaust clamps. The thing that struck me right off was that the intake hose on the turbo inlet is way too far out and probably not making a good seal.
--Geoff
I am thinking he thinks it going bad because of the lag but that is normal on that turbo with the 1.39 A/R at low end or it could be dragging he needs to pull both pipes and check for play or shinny metal
I guess some don't like two cycles or figure to go to a 4 cycle for great fuel mileage when their existing engine is worn out Cost isn't as much of an issue then. Maybe a 60 makes sense in this case. They hardly need anything done to them so appropriate when so much is difficult to access. And I can't believe how heavy some of these coaches are. No wonder they want 5 to 6 hundred horses. It needs remembering that 50 and 60 series are discontinued engines and in a few years parts will start to be more difficult to obtain, just like the two cycles. But hey, why worry now..it depends on your age. Mine will do me till it's time to hang up the keys. Unless I get the hots for a newer Prevost.... ;D
Geoff-
Are you referring to the location of the clamp holding the intake hose on the turbo inlet?
-Sean
www.herdofturtles.org (http://www.herdofturtles.org)
1984 Eagle Model 10S
Quote from: Geoff on December 02, 2013, 04:08:40 PM
The items you name thinking the turbo is bad are normal. If you had a turbo with the bearings and seals going out you would have oil coming out the exhaust clamps. The thing that struck me right off was that the intake hose on the turbo inlet is way too far out and probably not making a good seal.
--Geoff
Quote from: luvrbus on December 02, 2013, 04:45:06 PM
I am thinking he thinks it going bad because of the lag but that is normal on that turbo with the 1.39 A/R at low end or it could be dragging he needs to pull both pipes and check for play or shinny metal
I agree, unless the symptoms you mentioned have gotten worst lately and even then they could be caused from something else. Remove the air cleaner side and have an experienced person check the free play. It only takes a few minutes.
If I remember correctly I used a .96 or maybe a 1.08 on the exhaust side.
Ken
Quote from: Seangie on December 02, 2013, 05:10:17 PM
Geoff-
Are you referring to the location of the clamp holding the intake hose on the turbo inlet?
I am certain he is, there is a possibility (one worth checking) the horn that the intake hose seats on is not very wide, you could be clamping it on the edge, which could be allowing in dirt.....that would not cause a power loss (imo)....quick check...squirt a nickels worth of ether at the air intake side of your turbo....and listen.
A turbo usually makes a screechy noise going out...them nothing.
pull the easy side and look for chipped or malformed fins...see if there is shaft play. That turbo looks like it is on bolts vs. studs, you should be able to peak at the hot side easily too. there isn't much to a turbo. spins free, it's all there, it should be good.
IF you need one (a turbo) get an exchange....you have no way of knowing the condition otherwise...my .02 and worth about that.
Here's another thought, go to a turbo shop and ask to look at (feel) what a properly setup turbo feels like...big or small they pretty much all run on the same tolerances, then go feel yours...you really don't need much more experience than that, again, imo.
Unless you want a different power response....then I would listen to anyone but me.....:)
Looks like the clamp is a couple of inches out on the hose from the turbo housing and it has been tightened down so much that the hose is noticeable reduced in size. That would restrict the air
flow and disturb the air flow into the compressor side. I would remove that hose section and see if the hose recovers if not replace that section.
are you serious ? ??? ??? ??? ??? ::) ??? ??? ??? ???
Seangie, I just sent you a pm.
Don
Maybe this will help some. They are talking about car turbos, but the info is pretty much the same:
Turbo Turbocharger Shaft Play (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahbCMhPhjnM#)