I actually have two issues. First, the metal fins in the refrigerator compartment sweat. They collect condensation then drip water on the food below. I've had two other motorhomes and two Airstream trailers but no sweaty fridge. Can anyone shed light on this?
The second issue is that the fridge only works on gas. Is there a burnt out heating element or a bad circuit board and how can I test?
Make sure your door gasket is sealing tight that could cause condesation. I would check for power at the heat element, it may be burt out, usually an easy replacement HTH.>>>>>> John.
Ditto-- The moisture has to be coming from the air. Aside from at start up, when any moisture in the air that's already in the unit will condense, there should not be much new air coming in to produce more condensate. Find how air is getting in.
The heating elements do burn out and are generally easy to replace, but check all your DC connections first to make sure the element is getting power. You can check for continuity on the heating coil to make sure that is what has failed. If the coil is good, the circuit board is the next in line. They are more expensive. However, the good news is that it is usually the coil.
Thanks guys. The leaky gasket makes sense. I'll check it and the coil for continuity.
Take a look at the NovaKool 9cu/ft double door refer. Has a Danfoss compressor and runs on 12/24vdc or 120vac. Eliminates all the propane/electrical problems. Cools down very fast. Granted, it ain't cheap. Good Luck, TomC
My Norcold has a high humidity switch sometime if I forget to change it from normal to high humidity like I did in Texas it will frost the coils.
I could not ask for a better fridge it keeps the temp 35 degrees even on 100+ degree days and ice cream hard as a rock set on 3 out of the 5 temperature settings propane or electric makes no difference which
You don't say DC or AC?
If you're using DC it won't keep it cool in even moderately hot temps.
The best solution for Dometic problems is a Norcold!
My solution was get away from those wannabee refrig units and go with a househod model, 120 vac either genset or inverter.
Dave Mb
I agree that AC is better but I hate to run the gen just for the frige.
Sorry, in the earlier post, I meant AC connections, not DC. I do not think that anyone can deny that a straight electric compressor frig is likely to have less problems. However, you can not beat the absorption units for flexibility. A propane frig is a wonderful thing when you need it.
No question, the gas frig is great when they work and not leaking starting fires, yes that is rare but a fact of life. Many very fine RV's are in junk yards from refrig fires, from the gas leaking and igniting, just be ware of this & keep close eye on them.
I removed my Norcold side by side double door unit & installed a 24 cu ft Samsung, bigger than needed, but fits the same width hole, and like most it is hooked to the power post, when on the road, the 2500 watt inverter carries it great and when parked with the engine 180 amp alternator dead, I turn off the auto defrost and the 3 8D Gel Cell batteries into the 2500 watt inverter carry everything for ovr 12 hours, when the batteries drop to 12.2 VDC, it auto starts the genset, takes about 3 hours to bring back to spec, topped off at 14.2VDC max. THen good for another round. I am a traveler, am not parked, dry camping more than a day before back on the road, so the household refrig works for me.
FWIW
Dave M
LP is like electricity, it is safe as long as reasonable safety is observed.
Do dumb things, neglect maintenance and inspection, and both will kill you.
Never had an LP safety problem yet. Wish my water heater was LP instead of AC.
I'm with you gus, when using the mc7 I ran the 12.5 kw 24/7 when on the road, it averaged 10 gal per 24 hr day. With this fancy store bought coach it seemed like the proper thing to do, it cost about $3,400 installed, I am happy, It is a 24 cu ft Samsung, has great ice maker too and keeps ice cream perfect firm. ;D.
There have been many burnt coach's using the Norcold & other name brand units, seems after so many years the coils get eaten thru and leak, then a spark, rest is history.
My unit was 8 yr old ad it was time I felt.
Your mileage may be different ;D
Dave M
I can't say that it is true, but I have read that there are many more electrical fires in RV's than gas.
Fires come in all types, electrical, fuel diesel, gasoline or lp gas, brakes, wheel bearings, tire fires so like a turkey shoot, take you choice. ;D
DaveM