I have my series 60 out for the last time and big parts removed for painting. Removed intake, exhaust manifold, compressor, computer & wiring. All sanded down and taped ready to paint. I had a quart of basecoat/clearcoat of Alpine green mixed at my local automotive paint store. After mixing & paying for it the sales person told me he didn't know about large diesels but a restoration project on a classic car the engine was painted with basecoat/clearcoat and the car ran hot. The person even went to a larger radiator to overcome the heat issues. He finally had to remove the engine strip ithe paint off and lite paint it with no fancy stuff. Any ideas, heat wise the paint will hold up fine. Ray
Painting does not cause overheating. Paint protects metal and looks good. All large diesel engine manufactures that I know paint their engines.
I have never heard of this problem. I have painted many gas engines with base coat clear coat. They do it on custom cars all the time. I do know you can not paint a radiator for this reason though.
The engine builder might have put the thermostat in upside down the first time. After taking everything apart to repaint it, the thermostat was probably put in correctly. Then he blamed the paint and not the builder. Just a theory.
BarnOwl,
I'm buying your theory........
It's the only thing that makes sence to me!
Nick-
Ray,
I am with BarnOwl also.
There is something missing from the story and BarnOwl may be right on it.
Cliff
Thanks Guys,
That's what I wanted to hear! I had already painted the electronic transmission with a General motors silver blue met. and the rearend gloss black both basecoat/clearcoat. I also had sandblasted and painted rear airbeams, and hole rearend goes in. Also replaced radius rods, air bags and all brake relays, hoses etc. After I reinstall the engine & transmission all that is left underneath is pulling the front axle and sandblasting front air beams and cleaning and painting, also have radius rods kingpins & brake stuff and front airbags. Ray
I hope you are taking pictures for us!
What looks really cool is to have the intake manifold and two piece valve cover polished then clear coated to preserve the shine (not applicable if you have a plastic one piece valve cover). All engine manufacturers paint their engines. Otherwise you'd end up with a rusting mess. I hope that paint you had mixed is engine paint-meaning it will take the heat of the engine. Regular paint won't do the job. Good Luck, TomC
Over the years I have painted many engines in resto and race cars with matching car paint with no problems as long as you do all of the prep work correctly,high heat paint for headers ect yes but the engines are not run hot enough to blister paint and if they are you have bigger problems than the type of paint you are useing,let a car sit in the desert sun at 120+ deg and see how hot that car gets and no paint damage Mike
Just don't paint it green, unless you want it to leak oil...
;D
Jimmy
Thanks guys for all the info. Jim I have taken pictures, I used a digital camera then printed out hard copies than erased camera memory. I can scan the hard copies and post. I did buy the aluminun 2 piece valve cover. I had added the jakes and did away with the plastic valve cover and also purchased the shallow rear sump cast aluminum pan. The finish on the pan is to rough to polish but the valve cover and intake will be polished up and clear coated. Thanks Ray
Rayshound,
The people that make POR 15 sell a clear coat that is supposed to stick to chrome, polished brass, polished aluminum etc.
I bought a quart and painted my Alcoas with it. I polished them them sprayed it on. They suggest using a brush, saying that it wont leave brush marks but I sprayed it just to make sure.
If it doesn't hold up I'm going to have a lot of work to strip and re-polish
Ed.
Thanks Ed, I believe the clearcoat por makes is called Glicern, I think I mispelled it. Anyways that is the same stuff I purchased to clear the valve cover & intake after polishing. I had also purchased from por 15 there hi temperature paint for the exhaust manifold & turbo, it is supposed to look like natural cast iron and be good for 1800 degrees f. I will follow there procedure and marine clean then sand blast the manifold after I take the turbo off. Ray