I need to do something about some leaks in my roof. I think a roof coating will help after sealing some of the obvious areas. Is there anything new in roof coatings in the past few years? I searched here and found threads from 2008 and 2010. Both Bus-Kote and Black Jack Ultra-Roof 1000 seemed to have good recommendations. Kool Seal not so much due to chalking in some cases.
The Black Jack comes in a 4.75 gallon pail and covers 325 sq ft while the Bus-Kote covers about the same with only 2 gallons. Is the Black Jack a lot thicker or something? The thing I don't like about Bus-Kote is the $40 shipping for two gallons.
The guys over at PC said ProFlex or Sil-Flex200(black only)is all I found. The ProFlex was clear and Brush-able. Used around all openings and seams. They both remain mildly flexible over time to prevent cracking. FWIW. The ProFlex is printable.
I am using ProFlex on the seams and such. I still want to put the roof coating on the whole roof.
I don't know anything about Black Jack coating. I used the materials from Hy Tech Sales - insulating primer, Bus Kote and Flexi-Clear on the roof of my MC 9. Bus Kote covers very well and I was so impressed with its ease of use, ability to cover and insulating capabilities that I painted the whole bus with it. I rolled it on use a 1/4 nap roller and then rolled on the clear coat. The roof will never leak! It is pricy, but I believe it to be a very good product. You can see my blog entries on the process at www.mightybus.wordpress.com (http://www.mightybus.wordpress.com)
Best Regards,
Jim
The Bus-Kote sounds like it is going to be a fair bit more expensive that I had first thought. The manufacturer is recommending 1 coat of Aqua-Prime and then two coats of Bus-Kote. I will need 4 to 5 gallons of the Bus-Kote alone. Total cost is just about $400 with shipping.
The Black Jack product from Lowes is 1/3 the price. I could buy a lot of other stuff for the bus with $250. Decisions, decisions. Still wondering if anything new is available now that wasn't on the market three years ago or five years ago.
Belfert, My bus is black.. It has a white roof.. Three seasons ago, I posted a thread and received the recommendation to use the Henry SolarFlex 287SF.. It does NOT streak or run like many other coatings that I have seen. I bought a 5 gallon pail and still have 1/3 left. I might go up there this year and touch things up. It rolls on great, very easy...
Home Depot has it.. I strongly recommend it..
I wonder why butyl rubber has not been brought up for small gaps. Stuff is super messy but some solvent does the trick. It's well suited for sealing up "below waterline" applications
My experience with butyl rubber is that it never hardens. Not very good for something to paint over and not very good for a roof coating.
I don't have any practical experience to add, but I just bought Snow Roof Premium to seal the roof of my Eagle. I found it recommended a few times on some different forums. The manufacturer mentions mobile homes in the product applications, which I liked. It is supposed to be very elastic and very reflective of heat from the sun too.
I looked at the roof paint at Lowes (BlackJack?) and didn't like the specs as much. It was cheaper, but I opted to spend a little more on Snow Roof for what looks to be a better product (on paper, anyway).
I bought the 5 gallon pail from True Value online and had it shipped for free to a local store. I'm hoping to get it done in the next few weeks, so ask me in a year or more how it is holding up :)
-Kitt
I used Advanced Epoxy Systems AES-100 to coat my entire roof. I have been more than pleased with the results. Bright white, no chalking, great heat reflection.
I used ProFlex RV Instant Roof Repair about four years ago. Worked well and I thought problem solved let's go busing. Well last weekend in Eastern Tennessee we had a hard and constant overnight rain. Yep, leak was back and in the same place.
I got back to the barn yesterday to examine the roof. I was surprised the Pro Flex was basically gone, thus the leak came back. Now it has a 10 year materials warranty but why put the same stuff back on when the sun and elements is going to eat it for lunch. I brushed it on for 3" either side of the rivet line(s), which would be about 7" for the double rows of rivets.
Well I still had half of the $80 gallon and it seemed to be in useable condition, and since I've got a trip planned for next weekend I used the rest of the material covering the same rivet lines after wiping the areas with lacquer thinner to clean the surface.
So right now I'm sore from all the ups and downs of ladder climbing, I wanted to stay off the roof just in case my weight would cause more leaks or vertigo kicked in and I fell off.
Hate to take the skin off and seal between sheets as it is re-riveted to the structure.
Just sayin' ...
There are so many options for roof coatings ranging from very expensive to pretty inexpensive that it is hard to make a choice. I just want something I can put on and not have to worry about for the next five to ten years. The two part epoxy based coatings sound nice simply because you don't need a dry sunny day to put them on, but they are also quite expensive.
Something available locally is a plus because shipping heavy liquids is not cheap.
I already have the Pro Flex sealer. I figure if coated with paint it shouldn't deteriorate.
Subscribed. We've never coated our roof...still original bus roof paint from when it was in service. No leaks yet, but I would like to see a definitive product that bubbles to the top in everyone's experience.
Brian,
Have you contacted Ken and Ruthi to see how the TC Ceramic coating they used on their Dina has held up. Might be worth a call.
I'd be curious to know as I'm seriously considering that for mine.
Bob
Has anyone tried white truck bed liner some companies have colors?I us it for undercoating(black)it holds up well and stays flexible.
I think I'm going to hold off for now at least on doing any roof coating. I might do it later this summer. I took a look at the roof today and I was able to identify the main sources of water intrusion. There is a crack in the rear fiberglass cap that I had caulked a few years back, but the caulk is totally gone now. There was a huge pool of water inside in the rear and I'm certain one of the rear marker lights is leaking.
I've read about folks doing bed liner on the roof, but I imagine it isn't cheap. A bed liner for a truck is close to $500.
I'm close to doing my roof ('56 4104). I'm palm sanding all the paint down to the green primer or bare metal. If you use stripper, you must get down to bare metal or you'll have weakened primer remaining. The original green primer on aluminum is ultra-durable. I'll green prime it, then use one part automotive seam sealer along all panel seams, finger wiping smooth to about 1/4" wide. This seam sealer is sand-able and paint-able, but remains slightly flexible. I'm then painting the entire roof with bright white commercial aircraft paint which is designed for the rigors of expanding and contracting riveted aluminum panels and sitting on the tarmac 24/7/365. Friend who is helping me painted planes 8 years for Duncan Aviation - a high-end aircraft conversion / restoration company. Roof will cost about $450 in materials. I figure applying more layers of non-compatible coating on degraded existing surface is just not a good idea. The best sealer in the world won't work if applied over degraded, pealing or otherwise leaking substrate.
I decided I do need to put on a roof coating after all. I had a heck of time finding any good roof coatings actually in stock at any local stores here in Minneapolis so I ordered two buckets from Lowe's that should be at the store in a week. I guess we don't have that many flat roofs here so nobody carries the good roof coatings in stock.
I didn't realize the coatings don't want to be applied two hours before sunset so I need to wait until a weekend to do it. It will be raining this weekend so it doesn't matter if I can't get the product right away. I'm hoping it will be nice the next weekend so I can at least get one coat on.