I pulled the plugs off my front wheels and bogies to check the oil. It looks a bit black and could use a change. No sign of any leaking anywhere. How do you empty the oil and clean things out? I looked in the manual and it appears the hub cap must be removed by unscrewing all the bolts. If so, when replacing do I need to buy all new gaskets? Anything else needed? Best way to keep from making a mess?
The book specifies HGO 85w90 for temps between 10F and -15F. There is no spec for temps above 10F. Should it be 140w?
I humbly ask for guidance from those who have BTDT.
David Anderson
1985 Eagle 10
Dave: When you remove the cap it still is hard to get all the oil out with out removing the wheel, And if you remove the wheel you may have to replacethe wheel seal, I have removed the wheel and was able to reuse the seal, but you must be careful. Also you can get by with permitex of a forma gasket material, I think if the oil is that dirty and you are going to change it I would remove the wheel and inspect the bearings and brakes, buy a new wheel seal and gasket, Refill with 80-90 weight, and some time I add just a shot of stp. Should be good for many years.s
David, Mine had a plug to drain the oil. Just turn it down, and use something to get the oil away from your tire. I put some fuel in mine and spun it around then drained it out. Tom Y
On an MCI you just crack the cap loose. Also, MCI specs SAE 30 motor oil for the wheel bearings.
Ross
These are all good suggestions, but sort of incomplete...
Yes, oil will drain when you remove the side-plug or take the oiler off. However, the internal design of the hub prevents 2/3 of the oil in the hub from escaping. In the center of the hub, between the bearings, the hub has a "well" that is machined a bit wider than the bearing race areas. The principle is that the bearings will be provided with oil even if the front oiler is cracked or leaking.
The only way to completely drain the lube oil from the hub is to remove the hub. Most times, if you are careful to not bang the lip of the seal on the end of the spindle when sliding the hub off, you can re-use the seal if it is not worn out. Just make sure that you clean the spindle and seal land thoroughly before re-installation. My own standard practice, though, is that if I do not know the last time a seal was installed -- I simply replace it. After all, a new seal is less than $20 in most places.
As for lube oil -- my personal choice is 75/140 gear oil with a healthy shot of Lucas. Of course, my boss likes to eliminate the oil completely and pack the bearings & cavity with grease. Each has their own merits -- but most commercial busses are usually switched over to packed bearings at the first bearing change.