Hey Guys
Just wondering how much if any play is acceptable in my Shepard system? I currently have just over an inch at the steering wheel. A shop recommended a rebuild of the steering box and I am just concerned that they want to fix something that is not broken.
Thanks
TM
Just over an inch?!?!
Don't let anyone touch anything!
You are the envy of the hobby with play like that.
happy coaching!
buswarrior
BW is spot on!
I just installed a new Shepard system in my 4106. I replaced everything. Absolutely all of it; new box from Shepard, pitman arm, prop shaft, tie rod ends, bushings, shocks, air bags, king pins, brakes, etc etc. I have about the same amount of play and I couldn't tell you where or how.
Steve -
It ain't broke! Don't fix it!
Go drive and enjoy - even in the winter!
FWIW & HTH. . .
;)
You may think you have 1" of travel (I bet you don't). Take a drive down a straight highway. Move the steering wheel minutely and you'll see the bus slowly start to move. I thought I had play also, just realized that the bus takes longer to react then even my truck. 1" isn't bad-the trick is to not move the steering wheel much-small corrections will make for a smoother ride. Good Luck, TomCa
There is chart on what the allowable is
16 to 18 inch wheel 4 inches
20 to 22 inch wheel 5 inches
no power steering the free play limit is 2 inches you are good to go Steve
Everyone,
Thanks for the replies. I had a feeling they may have been trying to make their boat payments for the month(fans of Car Talk will know what I mean). This recommendation came from a reputable shop but after spending an hour inspecting and cleaning my steering gear yesterday I thought everything looked fine.
Once again I am really glad that you guys are here.
Now on to the next project!
TM
The origional power steering in the MC7 was on the loose side, so when I was able, I converted to the newer steering gear box, eliminated the old system including the external hydraulic cylinder etc. Now intergal is very fine, only thing I did not do was replace the spring in the hydraulic pump for steering, so when stopped, it is hard to turn the wheel, but if movi9ng any, it is very nice. Am told if I had the heavier spring in the pumo to raise the pressure, it would be slick, never did it and am happy.
When I got the bus, it handled very poorly, had a safety steer on the tie rod, so having an education from Bear Front End school on trucks, I got into it, replaced most everything and removed the safety steer and it handled very accepable, later did the intergal steering gear that was the winner.
Dave M
I just went through this with the Sheppard factory.
Seems mine is a very old model and can never be improved to less than 1-2" at the wheel rim without a few thousand $ upgrade to a newer model.
Once I found that out I quit worrying about it.
I did tighten the bevel gear box at the bottom of the steering column a tiny bit which helped some.
Next I plan to install new sliding joints in the steering shafts because the splines and grooves are worn and loose. I may also install new U joints but they seem to be OK. All these little things can add up to a lot of play at the wheel.
My RTS has Sheppard steering and there is a important part of testing for the steering wheel slop-- You need to check/measure the free play at the steering wheel with the engine turned off. If the engine is running it is too hard to tell how much free play you have. If your Sheppard steering is like the one in the RTS, you should only have a couple (2-3") of inches of free play with the engine turned off. With the engine running that translates to 6-8" of free travel.
You can look at a "how it works" diagram of this box and see that the "slack" you feel in the wheel is travel used to operate the valves. Somehow, even with the slack, you should find that your bus tracks straight. Not a difficult mod and well worth it for those contemplating this upgrade. NIMCO used to have a nice inexpensive kit, I don't know where you would go now.