We just joined the ranks by getting this already outfitted mobile medical clinic.
We have a few issues and are hoping for help/advice. Please let me know if there is a better format to address our issues.
Rust is a big issue around the rain gutters and two spots on top of the roof. The seemingly best suggestion so far was to fiberglass it. I had been thinking to cut out the steel and patching it back with 18 gage galvinized steel bedded in butyl rubber caulk and screwed in.
This rig was set up as a mobile medical clinic and does not have any propane for cooking or heating. We are thinking of getting an older apartment range, like 24" wide. We'd also like to add an insta-hot type water heater for dishes and showers.
We currently have an Onan 7.5 JB generator that was designed to run two AC units and lots of circuitry. It sounds like it is a great unit (if a bit of overkill) from the folks at Smokestak/Sparks&Arks. Our plan is to convert it to propane if it is indeed able to be resurrected. If not, we'd love to hear suggestions on replacement.
Thanks,
Michael & Dana
Petaluma, CA
Michael and Dana, Welcome to the madness. The smart guys will be on in a bit to give suggestions and help. Just remember Your Bus, Your way.......have fun.
Frank
Michael & Dana welcome to the forum and the fun.
We need to see some photos of the rust damage. If it is not too bad or structural, I would go the fiberglass route. Welding on the unit that is finished inside would dictate that you remove the wall/ceiling covering and insulation to assure you don't have a file.
Do not weld on galvanized steel without breathing protection. The zinc is bad stuff on your lungs.
There was a recent thread on propane vs gas generators. Propane has some issues with amount of fuel used, and ease of obtaining fuel.
Jim
My experience with fiberglassing over metal is that the fiberglass will pull away from the metal in time. I would cut out the rust and repair it correctly, then prime with rusted metal primer from Rustoleum.
Keep the genset gasoline. A factory built propane genset will sometimes have higher compression to take advantage of propane's natural 110 octane level and to compensate for the loss of power since propane has less power per gallon (equivalent) then gasoline (and Diesel has more then gasoline). I would not suggest you switch the genset to propane. Takes too much propane to power (big bulky tanks) and you'd derate the unit to around 6.6kw. Good Luck, TomC
To start your list: roof patch I agree with mechanical patch with good roof coating over it. Go to good clean bare metal. Do it your way with in your budget: the apartment style stove takes up allot of room, depends on how much you are going to use the oven. A toaster oven and induction cook top does allot. Hot water heater. Many have had bad experience with the on demand type. check the search feature in the blue area above. I use a small 120 volt electric quick recovery type. 10 gallon. The 7.5 gen set will put out 57 amps max which is all you will get at most camp grounds. Lots of bus guys run bigger gen sets. I don't ; we all do it differant that is what is great about being a bus nut. Bob
My take? Go for the propane! I have the same gene and it's on propane, I LOVE it. Gene starts instantly any time anywhere, it's exhaust doesn't STINK, it NEVER needs it's oil changed, and yes it uses more gallons per application (propane molecule has something like 20% less weight than a gasoline molecule, thus takes that much more tank space to give the same amount of energy, and the gene doesn't put out as much power by that same 20% but it'll run 2AC's and a microwave just fine...)
I have a 110 gallon tank on my bus and I can run one AC full on all day for a week solid (and do so) and still have half a tank left....
Plus around here it's $3 per gallon (and around here gas is $4)
Generator fuel seems to be one of those politics & religion things. There are opinions for either side, and no one's budging. (I vote propane if you are planning using it for a vacation rig; your choice if full-timing)
A stove top is important to have; but I would personally skip the oven. I don't know how many rv's I've looked at that the oven has been repurposed to pot/pan storage; skip the middle man and put in a drawer. Convection oven microwaves or toaster ovens will serve you better in this case. I have never tried the induction hob thing others have spoken of, but they are supposed to be very efficient and compact and people who have them love them.
If you don't want to clear everything out for about 12" around the hole you are about to weld, and aren't going to have someone with a fire extinguisher on the backside just in case, here's what I would do: cover the hole with the single-wide trailer roof patch repair stuff you can get a most big-box hardware stores. Then glue down via the adhesive of your choice the patch panel over it and rivet it in. Then paint the roof with white elastomeric roof paint which will make your repair leak free and disappear to the casual observer.
I would also recommend doing a little investigation to see where the water went from the leak and see what other rust/rotten wood/corroded wiring might be hiding to plague you at the most inopportune time.
Thanks for all the input! I did a lengthy reply and then tried to attach pix too big and lost all the text.
Here are pix of the bus & a close up of typical rust at the gutter. There is also rust hidden under bondo along the front brow. We are thinking that aluminum patch panels will be better than steel (thanks to my wife for that idea). Using an electric shear and cut off wheel for removal with screws and rivets using butyl rubber caulks for paint-ability (silicone sucks for painting). The original design is flawed with the gutter being a "j" mold and the roof panels on top of that. Any Gillig experts here with previous experience fisxing this?
On the propane, we are still in the discovery mode at Smokestak with the Onan genset.
M&D