Hi all.
I'm trying to figure out why the reverse lights don't work on my new-to-me '77 Eagle 05. Near as I can tell they may have stopped working when the previous owner had the 4-speed manual replaced with an HT740D.
If the transmission has the reverse switch installed, where would it be? I looked through the parts manual and diagrams that I have and while it calls out a part for it, I can't find it anywhere in the diagrams.
It looks like wire #40 leaves the circuit breaker panel (up front) and is powered. I'm assuming that wire goes to the back of the bus stopping at the transmission (it would have for the manual trans too, right?) and then continues on to the white reverse lights. Is that all correct?
Thanks for any help and insight.
-Kitt
On the drivers side about middle of the transmission above the pan you should have a 2 wire switch if the switch is not there it will be 1/8 inch plug remove it install the switch 1 hot wire to the switch doesn't matter which terminal then a wire to the lights at the upper right corner it takes care of sides
good luck
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.tapatalk.com%2F18eb49f6-c43e-e005.jpg&hash=efa10a6551219e4f6457131963abd73505a86f2f)
I assume that it is the plug on the left of the picture closer to the data plate (take out with an allen/hex key) and not the bolt slightly to the right, correct?
Kitt,
On our eagle the Previous Owner wired the backup lights to the same circuit that he wired the backup "beeper" to with a toggle to manually turn on or off the "beeper".
So if we don't turn on the beeper we don't get backup lights.
Let us know if you figured this out.
Thanks!
-Sean
Kitt, The wires that come from my trans are wired to my start wiring so I can't start the engine unless I'm in neutral. My backup lts. have wires in my gearshift at reverse to hook them to. I also have an MCI and it could be messed up.
Richard
The neutral switch should be on the opposite side Richard where the gear selector goes into the transmission you are messed up lol did the springs work I sent you
good luck
Cliff, Never got the springs. Did you send?
Richard
I have a switch and boot/connector on order which took a while to locate based on the really old part number in the transmission part manual. Should be here tomorrow and then I'll see if I got the right one. The PO didn't have whomever put the auto trans in put the reverse switch in too. At least it does have the neutral lock-out switch already - one less thing to worry about.
I did find the wires dangling down next to the transmission so for the moment they're connected together to make the reverse lights work after adding in a temporary switch up front for the driver.
I'll report back with my results once it is installed, where I got the parts, and what the part numbers are.
Thanks for everyone's help.
-Kitt
I installed the switch last weekend and it works! For those who might be looking for a replacement switch at some point I figured I would add the details here. My old parts manual for the Allison HT740-D listed the reverse switch as a Fasco Industries S-1733-1500 hydraulic switch.
The local Allison dealer wasn't any help with the part though he referred me to the Freightliner dealer. He was able to find the part, which he could order, but didn't have the boot/connector by itself. He did have the boot/connector as part of an $80 (ouch) wiring cable.
Using various Internet searches I was able to cross reference the switch to a few different manufacturers' part numbers. The one I ended up with was 5972752. I bought it from Erik's Military & Industrial Surplus for $24.00 (www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com (http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com)) because they also had the rubber boot and connector (part # MS27145-1 for $2.20).
Unfortunately I didn't take any photos of the switch or boot parts. Installing it required putting the crimps on the existing wires, which were luckily long enough. The switch itself has two screws inside the electrical connection which allowed me to remove the rubber boot from it and then use a 1" socket to put it on. I used some Teflon tape on the threads to get it to seal and torqued it to 48-60 inch/lbs (4-5 ft/lbs). I screwed the switch's rubber boot back on, put the connectors on (polarity doesn't matter - neither terminal is grounded or connected to the frame), and put the weather sealing boot on. Done!
Kitt and others any stop lite switch from the 60's that screws into the master cylinder will work also
I pay 11.00 bucks for those at Napa and they work fine
good luck