It acts like its stuck 1/2 way in gear. I started it in neutral, moved it 10 feet, set the brake, moved the parking blocks, and now it wont move in any gear and when I put it in neutral it acts like its 1/2 way in 1st. By that I mean I can tell there is pressure on the clutch but not enough to move it and it feels like it is in a bind. When I can get a second set of eyes on the linkage while I am at the pedals and shifter I should be able to figure it out, I hope. Just curious if anyone has had the same or similar issue. For the past 3 months it has only been moved around the lot where I keep it. I probably move it once every 10 days, start it every few days, now I cant start it without the clutch engaged. No issues prior to this or during the last 80 mile trip 4 months ago. As always, input and suggestions greatly appreciated.
It sounds like you might be stu cck in 4 th gear.
Get some one to push the clutch in and take a look at your shifting forks.
I found on my Spicer that the forks were loose and would get in a middle position were they would hang up.
Tightened them up and it stopped.
Best of luck,
Cliff
You can see the shift levers on top of the transmission if you open up the first floor panel at the back of the bus. As noted, you can have someone move the shift lever and check that the shift levers are moving to follow.
Brian
Thanks guys, you affirmed my suspicions and theory on repair. Im a 1 man show except for the weekends so I will get that extra set of eyes and should hopefully be a quick fix. The PO made the access hole over the trans much bigger than stock >:( so repairs should be easy to get to. Of course this happens the day I install the bed frame so we get to work around that. ;D
Don't know a lot about these offbrand buses but a Spicer four speed can be unstuck by having someone hold down the clutch while another person moves the two shift arms on top of the trans to a neutral position. Usually just one is out of position.
This used to happen to me all the time in my 4104 when if I neglected to push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor when shifting down.
Thanks Gus, I'm always running around like a crazy person so it is very likely I was hurrying and tried to short shift it like a race car.
Quote from: Carbone on April 11, 2012, 08:53:29 AM
Thanks Gus, I'm always running around like a crazy person so it is very likely I was hurrying and tried to short shift it like a race car.
Um, time to re-think your driving style.
These things are far from race cars and you need to remember that whenever you are in the drivers seat! Not only will a race car driver mindset cause you problems like Gus mentioned.
But will ultimately cause major issues with engine transmission, rear end damage!
They are great vehicles for what they are, but if you want to drive like Mario Andretti put a race care in a trailer and put it on a track when the urge strikes.
;D BK ;D
our old 4 speed got stuck up front under the shifter, not back on the trans, sometimes they bind when loose.
Quote from: Carbone on April 11, 2012, 08:53:29 AM
Thanks Gus, I'm always running around like a crazy person so it is very likely I was hurrying and tried to short shift it like a race car.
Carbone,
One thing I found when shifting the bus, as say compared to my jeep, is to actually shift the pattern like it was a box.
When I shift the Jeep, I just angle the pattern to the next gear, and of course it shifts fine.
If you don't shift in a squared pattern on the bus, it sometimes leaves the forks out of position and makes it harder to get in the next gear or can bind up.
Since going to the squared pattern of shifting, not a single issue.
Try it next time your out. Also I hit every gear with out double clutching, no grinding......(many thanks to RJ for his primer on shifting these things, when I started)
Especially for us "race car" drivers.... :P
Cliff
Another think to think about, is your comment about not starting with the clutch up. It's always a good practice to depress the clutch pedal before starting, at least that's the way I was taught decades ago.
I've had a 4905 engine shift on its mountings, changing the angle to the transmission, to the point where I couldn't make any shift without severe grinding. I was on a charter, and still remember that one 35-40 years later. Another guy I used to drive with had a 4905 hang up in two gears. Personally, even if the stick is in neutral, and I'm the only driver, I always start the 4107 as if it's in gear, clutch depressed; then release the clutch slowly. If it ever happens that somehow it's in gear, the bus won't move -- safety first.
Arthur
Quote from: Runcutter on April 11, 2012, 05:30:56 PM
Personally, even if the stick is in neutral, and I'm the only driver, I always start the 4107 as if it's in gear, clutch depressed; then release the clutch slowly. If it ever happens that somehow it's in gear, the bus won't move -- safety first.
Arthur
Arthur,
I do the same....That starter could walk the bus out of my barn in first gear without a problem..
Cliff
I too always start with the clutch engaged, thats just how some of us were raised and if you have ever bumped a starter while its in gear and it broke the bellhousing and spit the starter completely off the engine you wont ever do it again ;). I was a little sarcastic about driving it like a race car but that did bring up some good pointers and reminders. I did race cars for 25 years, worked at an International truck dealership for 10 years, and my family owned a dirt race race track 11 years that I operated all of the machinery. I've been around a few shifters in my time and they are all unique and each have their own temperments. The one thing they all have in common is being in a hurry or abuse will cut a trip short every time.
My 4104 will come nowhere near moving the bus when hitting the starter in gear, I've done it a few times accidentally.
I always shift up without using the clutch except for starting from stop, going down I use the clutch. Learned the hard way, especially on hills where I can double clutch without losing a bit of speed. At first I tried it without the clutch but lost way too much speed.
Get used to shifting slower, it takes a bit of a pause between gears to be smooth.
I always depress the clutch for starting as well. Or at least I used too. MC7 dash says not to. We've talked about this before and no one knows why this is. j m
I used to start with the clutch depressed until I read in the operators Manuel that depressing clutch prevented correct lubrication of the rear main bearing by forcing the crank shaft forward prior to oil pressure build up. Don't know if its true or how many start it would take to have an effect.
Unhooked the linkage, messed around with it for a while, figuring out that the extra hole over the transmission is probably just for this situation. Seems awfly convenient. Any advice for this stage? I have rocked the shift levers back and forth and cant seem to get it un-stuck. Thinking about pulling it (the bus) forward a few feet to see if that helps me out. That might unlock or line up what needs to happen.... On a positive note, I got the sub floor installed.
The clutch needs to be released, then it isn't too hard.
Disconnecting the levers is not necessary if the problem is actually with the trans and not the linkage.
Make sure it isn't stuck in reverse - the reverse rail can hang up sometimes. Look at where the linkage from the reverse solenoid engages onto a rail on the passenger side of the trans - that rail should be tight against the housing but you should be able to lever it out a half inch or so if the gearbox is in neutral. The transmission uses the one/two lever to shift both first and second gears, and reverse. When you hit the toggle switch for reverse, the solenoid pulls the rail that the one/two lever is on over a half inch, and it moves from working the one\two shift fork to moving the reverse shift fork. You should be able to move it with a little pry-bar left and right, and see what I mean.
With the shift linkage off, you should be able to shift into all the gears, and if you are in a gear, the other lever should be locked. If the box is in neutral, the shift levers should be at 90 degrees (vertical, in other words) relative to the transmission top. If a gear is engaged, they lean forward or back about 15 degrees from vertical.
Now, if you can move the shift levers back and forth by that 15 degrees, one at a time (checking that the other lever is locked when the one is moved into gear) and you can feel them click into the locked in gear position, then it's possible the transmission is fine and the problem is elsewhere.
Brian