need a bandaid fix for blown exhaust gasket on 8v92. Top easy to get to. Have new gasket but sort of afraid of taking chance of breaking stud on road. Bob
I doubt you will break a stud Bob those are pretty tuff grade 8 go with the Parts Blaster a couple of times you will be fine the nut is SAE and the stud is STD thread they will come out before breaking and no road fix for that I know of
Sorry to hear about your troubles - I did my 89's 8v92 last summer - I can't offer any quick fix, but here's a couple of things I learned. Heat, heat, and more heat. I heated the nuts red hot with a torch. I didn't break any studs off, but some of the studs were rusted solid to the nuts, and turned out of the block. Then the coolant leaks out. (drain it first!!) Make sure you have some new studs and nuts, you will need a few depending on when this was done last. When putting it together, there is a lip on the block that the manifold should rest on. If it is not positioned properly, the manifold will crack when you tighten it down. Use plenty of your favorite anti-seize compound on the studs/nuts when you put it together. I changed all of my studs out when I had it apart - if you can find one, a Snap-On A80A stud remover is invaluable. I don't think they make them anymore, but you can find them on Ebay or used. Hope this helps Steve
If you heat the nuts red hot most of the studs will have to be replaced
soaked today-will soak tomorrow--will try . If they loosen easy will go ahead. If not I have a piece of exhaust wrap sucked down in blown crack now as temp fix (has a piece of tie wire in middle). Will just run it till I get home and have proper tools in case I break something.Will be here 3 more weeks. I feel lucky! Bob
I have no fear you'll be able to fix it!
I know Clifford is correct about them turning out before braking. I also agree with Steve about having some new spare studs/nuts.
If it were me I'd take the chance on not draining it first, and if any studs come out have one handy to run right back in there you won't loose much coolant that way and it avoids bleeding air out of it like you'd have too if you drain it.
;D BK ;D
Florida Diesel is less than 15 minutes away. Might just run by and get a couple extras in case. Just hate to pay high dollar to have some one else do a easy job to do if I were at home. Will know when I put socket on nuts how hard they turn. Thanks. Bob
I had a problem betting the manifold to tailpipe nuts off my cHev 454 engine that had been untoched for 15 years.. Someone on this board recomended heating the nuts red hot to remove. Hardest part was getting the torch positioned properly to heat only the nuts. Once heated the nuts turned off like they were new.
Quote from: robertglines1 on March 05, 2012, 07:15:20 PM
Florida Diesel is less than 15 minutes away. Might just run by and get a couple extras in case. Just hate to pay high dollar to have some one else do a easy job to do if I were at home. Will know when I put socket on nuts how hard they turn. Thanks. Bob
Florida Diesel out of Ocala? If so, they are one of the best shops we have been to. Those guys there are good, and they know what they are doing. Go for them, for sure!
John
Wish I could help Bob...we're still down here in Apopka hoping we'd get a glimpse of you and Judy.
Bob,
We are in Summerfield, let me know if you need any help. Jack
Just a thought on this, may not help but... You can remove the manifold by just loosening the nuts a few turns and lifting it up and off. If you get a stud that is turning and you want to try to leave it in so as to not loose a lot of coolant, try just loosening, take the manifold off, then you might be able to grab the stud with some vise grips or a small pipe wrench and get the nut off so you can get the gasket replaced. Or with far better access just whip the old stud out and slip the new one in with a minimum of fuss and muss.
Brian
Thanks for the help offer guys: and info. Will try nuts today and if they turn easy will go for it. If not will go with temp fix in place;if has 90% of leak stopped. Then fix at leisure when I get home. Looking at major down time this year for me. Will fix before surgery on back that I have been trying to avoid for 6 years. Now unstable. sucks! So something that would be simple at home -ya know the rest.
Bob if I can help or even do it my self ...give me a shout and I would be more than happy to run up there
Tim
If you cannot get it fixed and must drive home on a patch, be aware of where the exhaust leak is going. Exhaust leaks cause fires.
Have about 150 miles on patch. It seams to be holding and turbo pressure is back up. Thanks for offer Tim I actually put temp patch on at your place when I discovered it. There are local guys that have offered also. Nice to have busnut support. Did not try today but did soak studs again with PB Blaster. The leak is on top and the patch is wedged in real good and has tie wire on top of that around manifold. Thanks to all. Believe me safety is my first concern. Bob.
A nutcracker has worked well for me when it is possible to get to the nuts, the crackers are kind of stout and thick.
Located deep well 11/16 6 point. Have plenty at home-none on bus./ever other size----so cold engine and 45 minutes later all is well. next job = nap. I'm on vacation and am a senior citizen. Bob
You might wanna try that nutcracker trick ;D Our goal is to get you fixed whether you like it or not :D ;D Oh!! sorry! just read you are on vacation, as you were! Resume vacation ;) :) :)
Wishing I was on Vacation :'(
Have a spledid vacation :)
Van
Bob writes like I do read between the lines I think he got her fixed lol
Oh yea! your right Clifford :-[. See I do need a vacation, is it may yet sheesh! ;D
Quote from: luvrbus on March 08, 2012, 01:07:50 PM
Bob writes like I do read between the lines I think he got her fixed lol
He's on vacation. Didn't wanna spend to much of his nap time typing boring details! LOL!
;D BK ;D