I have got a around 21,000 on my Ohtsu steers, right one showing some ware on the outside, wondering if its ok to just swap sides,until i can find sombody to check alinment on this Eagle.
Thanks Matt
God bless you! Now what brand of tires are they? Sorry Matt! I jus couldn't resist :D.
You could just have that tire dismounted and remounted the other way (to put the worn edge on the inside). It sounds like it might be toe alignment-which is easy to check. Good Luck, TomC
This is probably way more than you wanted. It was posted some years ago by Dan. You can do any of the suggested things with the tire when finished.
Alignment always starts with the drive axle. You want your drive axle aligned with the frame of the coach. We call this the thrust angle. A simple check that you can do is this:
Park your coach straight on a level hard surface.
Drop a plumbob from a common point on each outer most point of the drive axle housing. For instance, you may use one of the bolts that mounts the stabilizer bar to the drive axle housing.
A plumbob is a string with a ball and pointer attached to it.
Let the plumbob hang freely until it stabilizes and do not let it touch the concrete surface below.
After it is stabilized, mark the ground where the pointer is. do this on both sides of the drive axle. Now you have two marks on the ground.
Now take your plumbob to the front center casting between the torsion bars.
Drop the plumbob from the center of this casting and mark the ground.
Next, remove the coach from where it is parked and then take a measurement from each mark at the drive axle to the front center mark. They should be the same measurement. If not, then you know how much you will need to adjust the drive axle.
Adjustment on the drive axle thrust angle is accomplished through the stabilizer bar.
Next you want to align the bogie or tag wheels to the drive axle.
You will need a ten foot straight edge and your tape measure.
Set the straight edge horizontal against the center of the outer drive axle tire with the other end extending forward through the center of the bogie or rearward through the center line of the tag.
While holding the straight edge, have another person measure from the straight edge to the outer walls of the tire on the bogie or tag. Compare the measurements, they should be the same or the measurement on the front should be no more than 1/16" greater than the measurement on the rear. Now you know what your toe setting is on the bogie or tag. It should be Zero to 1/16" toe in.
Camber setting for the bogie or tag can be checked using a level.
Hold the level vertical against the centerline of the wheel. Check the bubble on your level, it should be centered. If not, you will actually have to install a camber gauge on the spindle to get the actual degree setting so you will know how many degrees to adjust it.
Alignment settings on the bogie or tag is done with tapered shims installed between the spindle and fixing arms.
Next you want to check the front end.
Make sure your coach is parked straight.
To check the front end for toe, take a tape measure and measure from the centerline of the tires on the rear of the tires from side to side. Record the measurement.
Now take a measurement from the centerline of the tires on the front of the tires from side to side.
These measurement should be the same or the rear measurement should be no more than 1/16" greater than the front measurement.
Toe is adjusted through the intermediate tube on the steering.
To check for camber, do the same as what you did on the bogie or tag.
These are just quick checks you can do without going to an alignment shop. Make sure you do not have any worn tie rod ends or steering components. Anytime you replace any tie rod ends or any cross pins and bushings, you will need to have the alignment redone.
If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask as I know this may sound confusing to anyone who is not familiar with the alignment process.
Dan
_________________
Daniel Lenz
Silver Eagle Bus, Mfg. Inc.
Brownsville, Texas
Thats a very good description, couldnt do any better.
That rear axle trust angle measurement is extremely important, and should be the first thing checked, just as Dan stated. Unfortunately its almost never checked because wheel alignments are a black art and most the guys doing it are crooks, or work for crooks. They just want to get you in and out and charge you, or find parts that need replacing, even good ones occasionally
It can get out of whack by simply curbing a rear tire. It will cause the Bus to dog track, meaning the rear end is offset from the front when traveling a straight line. Dog tracking forces the driver to correct by steering off center. As many steering gears are variable ratio, that can cause erratic steering. Dog tracking causes tire wear, because none of the tires are following a true and straight track. Excessive dog tracking can cause poor fuel economy because the Bus isnt square to the wind, running sideways makes a larger frontal area, generally putting a greater load against one side of the Bus, forcing more steering correction, greater tire wear.......
You can usually see it yourself with a long vehicle like a Bus just driving down the highway. Put the inside outer dual on the yellow line and have someone note where the fronts are or note the Bus running true along the line. Someone who can follow you can note it just as easily. If the Bus isnt square with the line on the highway, your rear axle isn't square with the chassis and should be corrected.
Do you have any helpful hints on measuring the tow-in.
Here's why
Its fairly easy to measure between the two front tires on the front side and get a good measurement, but...
when measuring the back side of the front tires there's 'stuff' in the way- frame,shocks,body, etc -
Any neat tricks that make it a little easier and more accurate ? (seems like it's difficult to be within 0-1/8" or ?)
Oops - I think I hi-jacked this thread - sorry Saddleup- to answer your question - IMHO - yes it's ok to move the tires around to get-by - but check alignment when convenient.
My thought, after having discussed this in at least two threads in the past month or so (and looking into it as a topic that piqued my interest), is that the right front often shows more wear, due to road crown, camber, etc. The recommendation from at least one manufacturer is to rotate the tire either to the other side on the front axle, or to a drive position if you run all the same tires. In other words, it's probably normal to expect to see more wear on the outside edge of the right front tire. Not to say checking the alignment/pressures etc., isn't a good thing to do, but but probably not to panic about it either.
Brian
Thanks No rivets, thats what i was looking for, the reason for asking about moving side to side is i thought they use to tell u that radial tire had to stay on the same side.
Figured if i just swap sides i would have more time to find sombody knew what they was doing, and if nothing else i would have a matching set of bogey tires in anouther 21,000 miles.
Matt
Matt, didn't the PO give you a warranty when you bought the bus? ;D ;D ;D
Don't ya just love a good Ed-ucation! ;D ;D ;D
Well, I got a guaranty when I bought my bus. He promised to cash my check.
Yep he got a warranty Ed I am still doing his warranty work lol,Matt if the Eagle doesn't pull from side to side driving I don't think alignment is the problem, you driving on the Nev super highways (unpaved ranch roads ) could have something to with it lol
good luck
Quote from: NoRivets on March 01, 2012, 04:57:03 AM
Do you have any helpful hints on measuring the tow-in.
Here's why
Its fairly easy to measure between the two front tires on the front side and get a good measurement, but...
when measuring the back side of the front tires there's 'stuff' in the way- frame,shocks,body, etc -
Any neat tricks that make it a little easier and more accurate ? (seems like it's difficult to be within 0-1/8" or ?)
Oops - I think I hi-jacked this thread - sorry Saddleup- to answer your question - IMHO - yes it's ok to move the tires around to get-by - but check alignment when convenient.
Use a trammel rod. I made one years ago, its just a pipe with two steel rods that fit into the ends of the pipe. The rods are bent twice, first in a 60 degree, than back to straight, with the ends ground to a dull point. At the pipe ends I drilled and tapped holes in the sides and screwed in thumb screws.
Heres how it works. The rods allow the pipe to be about a foot below the pointers. Now I can put the pointers up against the inside wheel rim edge (bead seat) and the pipe is down where it clears under everything. Its not totally rock solid, it will flex if you push on it very hard, but if I carefully hold one end lightly against a wheel I can adjust the other end out to touch the other side. I place the pointers on the wheel at 3:00 positions, then check it at the 9:00 position. If its tight in the back and loose in front, its toed out. And vice versa.
Radial tires inherently want to run straight and will pull that way if toed either direction. In most instances you want zero toe with radials, to an ever so slight toe in, but your front end parts have to be tight as well.
Clifford, I wonder if it is because the tail pipe is now sticking out the right side ::) :o ;D
Zoom! Zoom! ;)
Thanks, for all the advice, stoped in Winnimucca today while i was waiting out snow storms, went to schwabes and had the steers swaped side to side, there 20 year old tire expert sugested the ware was a crown of road thing, but thay had a alingment a guy comes in once a month, i decided not to wait around.
So THANKS
A thanks to Clifford, Van, and Ed, for there advice ;D ;D ;D
Glad i could help. ;D
We just had to replace our steer tires because of uneven wear. The tires were only a yr old. Went to one shop, and they do busses, but said the way ours is, they couldnt properly lift it to ck alignment. They said it could be the pins that are wore out. Another shop said they could do it, but we had to scedule it for later this week. Dont notice any pulling though. It is so confusing as to what to do and who to trust.