BCM Community

Wrong answers:

The photographer (myself) was awake more than 5 hours-
The photographer has never used a camera before-
The photographer was not inebriated in some way-
The photographer was blindfolded-

So this means the correct answer is that the bus is not exactly centered...

I finally was able to get an extra pair of hands (two pair-including the wife's) to help out. (Safety first!)

I had to hook up both batteries, and with a little choke she started right up.

After checking the clutch master, and topping it off, I pushed in the clutch, and tried shifting. It was stiff, but I could feel the gears slowing down to mesh. It slowed down enough that I could get it into first.

I moved the (parking brake lever (which doesn't work) and gently released the clutch.
The bus jumped forward...      I'd run over a wheel chock. ::)

Then it stalled-

I rechecked everything and tried it (without the chock) again, and it all went well.
This time I tried going through the routine in hopes of finding reverse-

She backed up with sliding the clutch (a no-no) on the fast idle, but I think it would have been better on flat ground as my drive is on an incline (and the bus was facing down hill).

I got her about 10ft before I had to stop because of things in the way.
Both the clutch and reverse seemed to work as designed. Hooray!

Without any brakes yet, I didn't want to chance any sort of real movement, but wanted to know if capable, it could.

Now I can get on the brake system and a few other areas needing attention (like the accelerator cable).

Most importantly, I can get her in her designated spot for the winter months, and having a major relief from still working (or fixed) parts, plus the satisfaction of knowing my effort has been positive. :)

There are some other photos of this in my album-


Until the next time...


  Cheers,

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Way to go Barry!!!! ;D :o

Congratulations

Melbo

Keep up on the project. Your making  good progress :)

Way to go Barry,I know it had to be a good feeling just to be able to go that short distance,keep up the great work and it will all be worthwhile Mike

One step at a time-and it looks like you're doing it with baby steps-which will ultimately be the safest way with a bus that age.  Keep up the good work!  Good Luck, TomC

Congratulations Brill-o!   I"m surprised that the clutch wasn't permanently stuck to the flywheel and pressure plate! Must be good parts.   
Is the throttle a cable or rod linkage?   What sort of service brakes does the bus have? 
I was wondering out loud on the chatroom whether you had moved the bus under its own power yet...
Very good!
Do you have an indoor building for the bus?   If not, you could get one of those piped framed vinyl covered shelters.  Some are pretty decently built.  Farmers use the things around here.  Last for years and are not expensive....relatively speaking.
Best, JR

Way To Go Brill-o

Barry, if you find a Morse type throttle cable in your coach, let me know.  I've got several here that are not used, some that are, and you are welcome to one.  If you're not using such a throttle cable, you could.   Let me know the approx length that would work and I'll see if I have one .  They come in 1' increments.   Most of what I have are 10' to about 16'....if one would reach your carbs, may be an option?

Cheers, JR

Hello-

Thank you all for the "push" to continue on-

Yes, she goes backwards and forwards without any drama.
Such a great feeling!

Tom you are so right about the "baby steps". No rush here-
Approaching one area at a time seems to work well for me, If I get in a snag, I move on to something else—leaving the other until I have I've had time to think about it. There's enough to do that I can tackle one area and still have multiple challenges I haven't even thought of yet.

I walk around the bus every few days spraying any and every nut or bolt I come across with lubricant. This is a good practice, as I am now able to adjust the side mirrors-, which were completely frozen when I got her. Plus the bay door locks have mostly freed up.

JR, I was most concerned with a sticking clutch also. Thank the Lord it wasn't!   

My accelerator set up is interesting-
While the bus sat, I was told that the visiting relatives let their kids go inside her to "play". By leaning on the frozen pedal they finally broke the mounting bracket. I found this first--and hard to get to- for re-welding.

The cable itself has two steel rods on either end, which connect to a spiral wound cable that runs somewhat loosely through a copper (!) tube.
I have been working it loose for some time now and it seems to be freeing up.
I don't know if the cable you have will work or not, but if this one is uncooperative, I would be interested in what you have to offer-
(I don't know what a "morse' cable is-)

Also, when I went to move her I'd forgot to plug off the airline that goes to the wigwag low air lever. (This was when I dropped the roof).
I rebuilt the wigwag and I'm very curious to see if I have reg. foot brakes with this next move—coming this weekend.

The service brake (if you mean the parking brake?) consists of a drum surrounding the driveshaft controlled by a "Johnson bar". When I inspected the set-up, I found the shoes have been removed and are long gone- but everything else is there and seems intact.

I've been told this set-up is terrible for stopping the bus, anyway.
Dallas has mentioned an easy remedy for this, as did you (I think).

I have been considering a pole building or a mock-up shelter for the coming months—even if it  lasts only a short time--just through the winter.

Next year I will construct a permanent housing for both her and Penny.

Once I have her in her parking spot, I'll post a few more pics of the move and winterizing.

Thanks all, once again-


Cheers

Brill-o, The parking brake is exactly for that purpose, parking. It is not really designed for stopping the vehicle, although it could be used for that purpose, but not very efficiently.
Your throttle cable sounds like a Morse type cable. They are used many times in marine environments also since the inner cable can many times be lubricated, but moisture can not get to the moving flexible portion of the cable.
Good luck and keep us posted. Wish I lived a little closer so that I could come and help you some.
Richard

Look at the remote control cables on any outboard powered  boat (inboards also use them, just more difficult see) and that is a Morse or Teleflex style cable.    When kept relatively straight, they work slick. 
Get me an idea of the distance from your carb to the throttle pedal.  Or perhaps the distance of the copper tube that you describe.   
Morse cables can be fitted with various terminations so that almost any sort of attachment can be fabbed or accommodated.
I have several Morse cables laying around here that have absolutely no value to me.  If I have one long enough, I'll send it to you.   Most are 10' to 14' or thereabouts.   Consider how the mechanicals will work...such as: will the cable be pulling or pushing in the correct direction relative to the carb?  You may have to make a big loop around to get to the opposite side of the carb for correct butterfly articulation.  May even eliminate some clunky linkage?   You see where I'm going....don't want to end up with a "pull" where you need a "push."
These cables are pretty much foolproof if they are not submerged in water.  Probably much more safe than attempting to repair the OEM linkage. 
Let me know...no hurry.  I'll be out of pocket for a few days.   Having cataract surg AM tomorrow.  They set me up for the 31st, but called a few minutes ago and asked if I was avail for AM tomorrow.  Already had the meds and I'm ready.  Get it over with!  I won't have any closeup vision for a few days (??)...gotta go to da WalMart and get me some read'in specs after the surg!   
I'll get my wife to read to me!   MAK bedtime stories!  ;)
Cheers, JR 8)

Good luck. Please let us know how the surgery goes.
Richard

Job well done, Brill-o!!!!

Now, a wigwag!!!

Please, do you have lovely pictures of this?

No one in a half century has seen one, most, even old veterans of the road, have never even seen one, and I'm going to fix 'em all if I can get a good shot of one.

Actually, three shots, one back for context as to its relationship to the driving position, and two up close, one in the going for a drive position, and one in the fall down, oh my gawd, we're out of air position.

This is a coup in modern transit air brake training, fer shure!

happy coaching!
buswarrior

Hello BW-

You know—I forgot to take pics of the wig-wag when I had it apart!

I do apologize for this and will post pics of it back in place- sans the roof and windscreen interior strut cover. I will need to remove it again once the roof is reinstalled, and at that time I will clean it up and detail it.

It's just a simple diaphragm with a heavy spring and plunger. The arm has a raised area, which moves from the pressure of the plunger. The spring fights this, until the air pressure is up.

In relation to the driving position, I've seen different type mountings with some being right on the dash, whilst others attaching to the roof directly.
Mine has the air-line fastened up the center windscreen post and then the unit is bolted to the roof, just left of center.
The "driving position" is with the lever up- to the left. The "low air" is it swinging back and forth. The "no air" is hanging limp-

I think there are some pics of the dash area in my album which shows it in its standard place.


Thank you for the inquiry and my forgetting the pics-


Cheers-

Thanks Richard, I will.  My silence for a couple of days should give some relief.  ;)
Brill-o, have you seen the ad in the BNO board for the '46 Brill?  There's one for sale...that's one way to get a load of spare parts!
Pmail me your address and I'll send you a cable.  You'll get a good idea of what is possible.
Cheers, JR

Barry,

I still need the width of the rear axle if you have time.

If it's too wide, we can take off the outside duals to make it narrower.

Dallas