My bus is a 1969 and the siding is kind of white looking with age. I am thinking about trying to clean it up but do not want to buff the anodizing off and make it corrode worse. How do I know when to stop and what is the fastest way to cover a lot of siding?
Thanks in advance!
I am restoring a Silverside and lately have been rebuilding the bay doors. The process I'm using to brighten and remove the oxidation and other impurities is this:
1. Using Cream & Clean (a de-etching product about the consistancy of toothpaste available from Mt. Hood Solutions)
go back and forth with the grain using 4/0 (OOOO) steel wool, which is very fine. It will not scratch or harm the
aluminum. Wipe off with clean towel.
2. Repeat the process using a good quality aluminum polish like Blue Magic or Mothers, again with the OOOO steel wool.
3. Buff by hand with a clean micro fiber towel. Using flour or corn starch on the towel helps remove the residue.
This does not harm the anodizing or finish but does clean, remove oxidation and brighten the siding. Do not expect any kind of mirror finish, it only cleans and brightens, which is all you can do while retaining the anodized finished. It's a lot of work but sure made my 1947 siding look better.
Hope this helps.
Phosphoric acid is a chemical treatment that brightens aluminium. There are many off the shelf products available, or even commercial truck washes that apply them. Basically removes the oxidized layer, along with the discolouration and staining, and exposes a fresh layer of aluminium. Not sure what the effect on anodized aluminium is, or even if any anodizing would have survived on an old piece of siding.
Brian
Quote from: Boomer on December 13, 2011, 10:17:11 PM
I am restoring a Silverside and lately have been rebuilding the bay doors. The process I'm using to brighten and remove the oxidation and other impurities is this:
1. Using Cream & Clean (a de-etching product about the consistancy of toothpaste available from Mt. Hood Solutions)
go back and forth with the grain using 4/0 (OOOO) steel wool, which is very fine. It will not scratch or harm the
aluminum. Wipe off with clean towel.
2. Repeat the process using a good quality aluminum polish like Blue Magic or Mothers, again with the OOOO steel wool.
3. Buff by hand with a clean micro fiber towel. Using flour or corn starch on the towel helps remove the residue.
This does not harm the anodizing or finish but does clean, remove oxidation and brighten the siding. Do not expect any kind of mirror finish, it only cleans and brightens, which is all you can do while retaining the anodized finished. It's a lot of work but sure made my 1947 siding look better.
Hope this helps.
I still feel wary using steel wool no mater how fine on aluminium. Embedding steel in aluminium just sounds like a good way to start dissimilar metal corrosion.
Brice
Quote from: babell2 on December 18, 2011, 09:34:28 AM
Quote from: Boomer on December 13, 2011, 10:17:11 PM
I am restoring a Silverside and lately have been rebuilding the bay doors. The process I'm using to brighten and remove the oxidation and other impurities is this:
1. Using Cream & Clean (a de-etching product about the consistancy of toothpaste available from Mt. Hood Solutions)
go back and forth with the grain using 4/0 (OOOO) steel wool, which is very fine. It will not scratch or harm the
aluminum. Wipe off with clean towel.
2. Repeat the process using a good quality aluminum polish like Blue Magic or Mothers, again with the OOOO steel wool.
3. Buff by hand with a clean micro fiber towel. Using flour or corn starch on the towel helps remove the residue.
This does not harm the anodizing or finish but does clean, remove oxidation and brighten the siding. Do not expect any kind of mirror finish, it only cleans and brightens, which is all you can do while retaining the anodized finished. It's a lot of work but sure made my 1947 siding look better.
Hope this helps.
I still feel wary using steel wool no mater how fine on aluminium. Embedding steel in aluminium just sounds like a good way to start dissimilar metal corrosion.
Brice
I am not so much worried about dissimilar metal corrosion but the embedded steel will rust making it look bad. I am thinking some coarse Scotch Brite would be better.
Boomer,
Thanks for the information on what you used and how it worked.
I am going to try it on a small area next week.
Cliff
If it is white the anodizing is already gone, probably buffed off by someone with a power buffer not knowing what it was and wanting a mirror shine, which can't be done with anodized Al.
Same thing happened to my 4107.
Charles SC Google & locate a dealer for Sheila Shine. Try a quart for cheap money see what you think. 06 Bill
Not factual Gus. Oxidation will occur on anodized aluminum, as well as painted surfaces. The procedure I explained will take the white off and not harm the anodizing or the coating on the anodizing.
Granted I'm no expert, I'm just going by what happened to mine and my anodizing is definitely gone.
Boomer,
Do you have a web address for Mt Hood?
Cliff
Cliff the site is: www.mthoodchem.com (http://www.mthoodchem.com)
Used to be Mt. Hood Chemical, just changed hands again. I misspelled the product, it is Kreme 'n Kleen. Comes in 1 qt. sizes. Didn't find it on the site, you will have to call them. We used it once a year on our coach windows to take the etching and bad water spots off, worked good. Worked good on the Silverside siding too. Good luck.
Quote from: Boomer on December 26, 2011, 01:53:04 PM
Cliff the site is: www.mthoodchem.com (http://www.mthoodchem.com)
Used to be Mt. Hood Chemical, just changed hands again. I misspelled the product, it is Kreme 'n Kleen. Comes in 1 qt. sizes. Didn't find it on the site, you will have to call them. We used it once a year on our coach windows to take the etching and bad water spots off, worked good. Worked good on the Silverside siding too. Good luck.
Boomer,
Thanks. That explains why I couldn't find it on there site.
I will give them a call in the afternoon here, am there..... ;D
Cliff