I'm not associated with this person in any way, just passing along info.
Used but described as working pneumatic rivet guns for $25.00 plus shipping:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/rivit-gun-race-cars-factory-/140546771744 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/rivit-gun-race-cars-factory-/140546771744)
These are Marson rivet guns that retail for $200+ new, I offered $17.00 and they accepted it. for 17$ i can make a paper weight...or rebuild it I am sure.I think it is capable of bus rivets...anyone care to clue me in.... :)
rivet gun for race cars , factory
Quantity:1
Sale price:$17.00
Subtotal:$17.00
Estimated delivery:3-7 business days
Seller:blackbear1066 [contact seller]
Seller Information:
Deb Stauffer STURGIS, MI 49091
I wondered looking a the photo if they were not factory retuns the dude got a bunch of. If so I can just about imagine how they might work!
Jack
Quote from: jackhartjr on November 29, 2011, 05:01:39 AM
I wondered looking a the photo if they were not factory retuns the dude got a bunch of. If so I can just about imagine how they might work!
Jack
i pm'd the girl they were surplus,they are too worn to be returns...doesn't look like anything that would be accepted as "unserviceable", these are over $200.00 new 17$ is almost free.
So Back to my ??? will these pull blind bus rivets?
Thanks - now I just need a $500 bus to go with it!!! :D
Quote from: eagle19952 on November 29, 2011, 08:44:51 AM(snip) So Back to my ??? will these pull blind bus rivets?
Back when I worked for Land Rover, we pretty much lived by pop rivets. I assume you're talking about the "puller guns" that have the can that hangs under the pistol grip and the "working tip" that extends from the "pistol barrel". If so, there are specs for those pullers. Basically, the bigger the rivet, the bigger (you can also spell that word "$$$$$") the gun you need, although typically each gun accommodates a range of rivet types and sizes. You also have to match the capacity of the tip as matched by the O/D size of the rivet and the diameter of the shank (the part that's pulled and broken off as the rivet is set). You also have to figure in rivet type - a plain aluminum rivet with an aluminum shank can be pulled by a smaller, lighter puller than a large-diameter stainless rivet with a stainless shank.
So, basically, the answer to your question is "maybe, and you might be able to get some helpful info out of the woman selling them". But "maybe" and "might" are kinda tough when you're spending money. If she's helpful with make and model number, you might be able to find spec for that number on-line. But pretty much, what's there is what's there.
Well thank-you Bruce for your thoughts,
for the money i can find a use for the gadget.
I have a $50 version of that tool, I've used it to pull 3/16" aluminium rivets and it works a treat. Cherrymax stainless steel cored rivets it might have an issue with, I've never tried. But when I had to pull several hundred rivets in about 45 minutes (bonding a new floor to a race car, you have to get the rivets pulled before the epoxy starts to set) I was very happy with it indeed! That was like a Chinese fire drill, spreading the glue, setting the rivets in place with both hands, then pulling them as fast as I could pull the trigger and move the gun!
Brian
Quote from: bevans6 on November 30, 2011, 03:58:55 AMI have a $50 version of that tool, I've used it to pull 3/16" aluminium rivets and it works a treat. Cherrymax stainless steel cored rivets it might have an issue with, I've never tried. But when I had to pull several hundred rivets in about 45 minutes (bonding a new floor to a race car, you have to get the rivets pulled before the epoxy starts to set) I was very happy with it indeed! That was like a Chinese fire drill, spreading the glue, setting the rivets in place with both hands, then pulling them as fast as I could pull the trigger and move the gun! Brian
All of the panels on my bus are held in place by a 1" strip of aluminium; the panels overlap at a frame flange, so there's a "sandwich" of strip/outer panel/inner panel/flange. They're held with 3/16" aluminium body/shank rivets. As I said, back when I was a useful and productive citizen, I slept with one of these rivet pullers under my pillow every night, but there are thousands of these rivets holding the bodywork together on my bus. I have bought two of these pullers; one cheap and one not-so-cheap. They're the same specs but the cheap one feels lighter and a bit more flimsy. It takes a bit more work - disassembly every once in a while to clean it and adjust. But the kicker is that it doesn't handle aluminum shanks as well -- for some reason, the shanks get caught in the teeth of the "gripper" inside the tip and you have to manually push the broken-off shank out of the tip after each rivet is set. Thus the cheaper unit (but with the same specs) is a good bit slower and more fiddly to use, in practice. So, there's a "difference between identical pullers". But I sure would never be without one in my shop.
I've used two rivet guns from Harbor Freight. One was one I borrowed from Craig Shepherd. I did 1000+ rivets on my bus and it was still working pretty good. I bought one for myself on sale at Harbor Freight and it was a hunk of junk. It wouldn't work at all at first and determined it was low on hydraulic fluid. I was able to use it for about 100 rivets, but it quit working at the end. It now sits broken in my garage and I should just toss it.
Send it to me Brian. It most likely needs a new set of O-rings. Mine was the same way and putting in a new set was all it took.
It also might help to hone it up a bit with some emery paper, or on the large end, use a cylinder hone.
I would be happy to have it in my armada.
Quote from: belfert on November 30, 2011, 10:13:29 AM
I've used two rivet guns from Harbor Freight. One was one I borrowed from Craig Shepherd. I did 1000+ rivets on my bus and it was still working pretty good. I bought one for myself on sale at Harbor Freight and it was a hunk of junk. It wouldn't work at all at first and determined it was low on hydraulic fluid. I was able to use it for about 100 rivets, but it quit working at the end. It now sits broken in my garage and I should just toss it.
Quote from: belfert on November 30, 2011, 10:13:29 AM
I've used two rivet guns from Harbor Freight. One was one I borrowed from Craig Shepherd. I did 1000+ rivets on my bus and it was still working pretty good. I bought one for myself on sale at Harbor Freight and it was a hunk of junk. It wouldn't work at all at first and determined it was low on hydraulic fluid. I was able to use it for about 100 rivets, but it quit working at the end. It now sits broken in my garage and I should just toss it.
I also have a Harbor Freight air/hydraulic riveter that I was able to use to build our coach entirely...but it pooped out literally on the last 5 rivets (did those with a hand tool....ouch). Go figure. It did literally thousands of rivets before dying... :-\
Quote from: Just Dallas on November 30, 2011, 11:21:46 AM
Send it to me Brian. It most likely needs a new set of O-rings. Mine was the same way and putting in a new set was all it took.
I really don't remember what state it is in. It might have a problem much bigger than O-rings. I simply set it aside when it quit as the project was done. I'll probably take another look at it if I ever need to install more rivets. It is buried somewhere in my garage right now.