BCM Community

I have several projects where I need to clean the parts.  I have a cleaning tank/pump/brush that I put clean solvent in and take the "worn out" solvent and put it in a 5 gallon bucket to use on really dirty parts.  In the past, I have used Stoddard Solvent.

It is getting harder to find Stoddard Solvent and I am wondering what you folks use?

When I looked up Stoddard solvent this morning, "mineral spirits" keeps coming up.  Anyone use that?

In the past I have used kerosene but did not think it cut grease all that well and left an oily film on the parts.  Gasoline is too dangerous.  I have read a bit about the "green" solvents, but not sure how effective they are.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Jim

I just buy the 5 gallon buckets of part washer solvent at the discount auto place.

It's just mineral spirits with a fancy name, but the price is right.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

Jim if you have a Grainger anywhere nearby they have a product called Agitene that comes in 5 gal.  It works pretty well and is real easy on your hands if you don't wear gloves.  I currently use Formula 520 from Mt. Hood Chemical to degrease before pressure washing.  However it is very stout, you have to be careful.

Jim, stoddard solvent is a aviation word for mineral spirits!  If My memory serves Me right it is actually a  British term akin to perspex and jubilee clamps!  Regards John L

I still use Varsol.  Which when I googled it may well be about the same thing as Stoddard solvent.  I probably should use some totally green equivalent that costs 5 times as much and works 5 times worse, but I don't.

http://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/toxprofiles/tp79-c1.pdf (http://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/toxprofiles/tp79-c1.pdf)

Brian

In my 35 years in the trucking industry, the all time best water based degreaser I've ever run into is Oil Eater.  Can be ordered on line. I use it to clean my carpets, wash the exterior of the bus, degrease my clothes when washing, etc.  Good Luck, TomC

Jim, I use Berrymans, Gunk or Tyme-1 from CRC mixed with diesel or kerosene work good for me need to be real careful with some cleaners they have so much chlorine it pits the parts and hell on wiring.

All the above are around 30 bucks a gal and mix well with diesel or Kerosene and can be washed off with a hose best price I find on kerosene is at Lowes or HD

I can still get Varsol at Napa at the tune of 95 bucks for 5 gals


good luck

What is everyone doing with their solvent and oil soaked rags to prevent spontaneous combustion?

Some of the belt and suspender self taught types may not know about the dangers of containing these rags.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

First of all, thanks for all the input.  The mineral spirits "family" seemed to get the most votes.  It turned out I had purchased 5 gallons of Klean-Strip paint thinner some time ago.  I read the label and it said that it was "made with mineral spirits".  Lowes carries it in 5 gal container for $38 and change:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_156562-78-CKPT94402_?PL=1&productId=3014433 (http://www.lowes.com/pd_156562-78-CKPT94402_?PL=1&productId=3014433)

I bought a couple of 5 gallon container so that I could fill my solvent sink.  We will see how good it is at cutting grease.

Buswarrior brings up a very good point:  spontaneous combustion.

I am a bit of a fanatic about this problem.  First, my wife and I have this understanding the really greasy rags are not allowed in the washing machine :D :D

I use the rolls of blue paper towels any time I am going to get real grease on them.  If they have any solvent, I let them lay on the shop floor until the solvent evaporates.  Those with real grease are then put in a five gallon bucket outside the shop (about 10 feet from the shop.  That bucket tends to get rain water and I think it is a safe way to store the oily "rags".  

For my clothes, if they get much grease on them, I pre-wash them in a bucket of soapy water and let them sit for a day or two in the bucket of soapy water.  Then I wash them in the washing machine.  If there is any doubt, I always hang the clothes in open air until I can wash them.

I did a bit of searching and most of the results did not fit our situation: oily rags.  The best I found was:

http://ucih.ucdavis.edu/docs/i_essay6.pdf (http://ucih.ucdavis.edu/docs/i_essay6.pdf)

From that article the following quote kind of sums up how you prevent spontaneous combustion:

QuoteThe  air  supply  is  important  in  that  there  must  be  enough  oxygen  present  to  permit  the  oxidation  process  but
not so much that any heat produced by the reaction is carried away by convection as rapidly as it is formed.
Hence,  a  loosely  packed  pile  of  oily  rags  may  undergo  spontaneous  combustion  whereas  a  tightly  packed  pile
or  a  single  oily  rag  hung  on  a  clothes  line  will  not.

Jim

Somewhere I had heard to put oily rags in a metal trash can with a tight fitting top, that no 'new' air can get in to support fire.  I have one that is about 5 gallons I got at Tractor Supply, looks like a small version of a big ole metal trash can!LOL
I have also read that 'Varsol' is Exxon's name for mineral spirits.
Jack

Does mineral spirits leave a film on parts?  There are certain parts where the Detroit service manual says to use a non-filming degreaser and specifically not to use mineral spirits.  I did use mineral spirits to remove oil from the side of block, but a film wouldn't matter there.

I've posted this information in years past-- cleaning solvent as used in shops and sold by oil distributors and safety-kleen is exactly the same as BBQ charcoal lighter fluid.  I have been buying mine for just under $9 a gallon (in 1/2 gal plastic containers) at Costco and Sam's Club, which is the same price my oil distributor wanted plus the price of the container.

Quote from: Geoff on November 05, 2011, 12:42:31 PM
I've posted this information in years past-- cleaning solvent as used in shops and sold by oil distributors and safety-kleen is exactly the same as BB charcoal lighter fluid.  I hve been buying mine for just under $9 a gallon (in 1/2 gal plastic containers) at Costco and Sam's Club, which is the same price my oil distributor wanted plus the price of the container.

Geoff,

Excuse my ignorance, what does BB stand for?

Thanks

Cliff

I fixed my spelling, thanks.

Quote from: Geoff on November 05, 2011, 01:05:46 PM
Sorry, that should have been BBQ.  I'm sure you figured it out already.

He He!....Yep, as soon as you ask the answer comes to you......

Of course after Best Buy...No....maybe....Better Brand...Oh yeah BBQ ;D

  Ive been using plain mineral spirits for over 10 years, since the cost of safety solvent (Kleen) went through the roof (thanks epa).

  The real difference is safety Kleen is gentler on your skin, mineral spirits is pretty harsh. But really, you should always wear gloves around a parts washer. And safety glasses. The biggest thing about a parts washer and solvent is flash point. IIRC mineral spirits, safety solvent and the like are 145 degrees. You do not want gasoline, or much of anything flamable in your solvent.

  The suggestion of using the old dirty stuff to clean the really yucky stuff before cleaning the yucky stuff in your clean stuff, is a really good idea.

  Solvent doesnt leave much residue, but for things im going to paint or seal, I wipe them down with lacquer thinner.

Lot of internal parts DD does not recommend mineral spirits for cleaning fwiw anything with o-ring or sealing surface

I checked the Rockwell,Allison,Timken and SKA bearing manuals same there reason I have no idea lol,Allison with the clutch packs maybe the rest ?


good luck

I still have old fashion steam Jenny. Then finish with Mineral spirits. I do filter it when it gets dirty and refill. A friend worked with toluene (Sp) for yrs and was told it was safe.  Has had many cancer concerns since.  So stay away from it. His doctor said it was the cause.   Bob

  Clifford makes an important point that extends far beyond Detroit Diesel, to engines in general and anything mechanical. We use the parts washer for cleaning metal parts that are to be put back together with all new seals gaskets and o rings.

  Around aviation, its common to spray down engines and engine compartments with solvent, but its clean solvent. Clean solvent (mineral spirits) is generally safe on rubber and synthetic rubber parts, plastics etc.. In a parts washer however, the solvent becomes rapidly contaminated with everything, and anything thats on or in the parts you wash in it. Engine oil, brake fluid, grease, transmission fluid, gasoline and diesel fuel, etc.. Many of those chemicals will attack various types of o-rings and seals, etc., and destroy them. And in a parts washer, your parts are bathed in the stuff, whereas in spraying down an engine it all runs off and dries rapidly.

Have a buddy that converted his Greymills washer tank over to Clean Rite Purple Power soap. It is water based. Buy it by the 2.5 gallon jug at Walmart.
He added a water heater element through the side wall of the tank, the kind that has a thermostat on it. Turned on the heater to about 105 degrees F.
It is the cleaningest stuff I've ever seen.
I'm going to do the same with my parts washer. Until you try it you won't believe it and when the shop is cold it warms up your hands.

Think outside the box

Larry

Larry : I use purple power as a pre treat    never thought about as the tank solvent.  Do you use straight of dilute?