Hi everyone,
Thanks for the responses and the e-mails I have received. I have been reading and learning but I have a couple of questions
that I have not found the answer to yet.
1. Several posts have mentioned not slipping the clutch, but they never say, why is this such a taboo? I know it is not good to
excessively slip a clutch even in a car but it seems especially ominus from what I am gleaning.
2. Why can't you use a regular house toilet? You have plumbing and water.
3. Other than weight and workability, what makes stainless or aluminum or plastic a better choice for holding/waste tanks?
4. I have been contacted by someone who reads the board and they have a bus for sale. What questions should I be asking?
5. Is there a checklist of sorts I should be using when I start looking at buses? ( I guesss more specifically the 4106's)
6. As I understand it, the 4104/06's came with a four speed non synco transmission. The usual swap is an auto trans.
Is there a another manual that will give better mileage or power ratio choices, such as a six or ten speed?
Thanks for you time and your knowledge,
Frank
Well, I will jump in on part of what you asked...
Clutches used in Bus applications are very very very expensive to replace or repair. Unlike
the ones used in dump trucks the bus versions just won't handle much abuse.
House type toilets are a no-no when you have a vehicle that moves. They also use huge amounts
of water like 1.5 gallon per flush. An RV toilet is less than a quart per flush.
Tank type toilets store the water above the toilet. subject to sloshing out and making a huge
mess. They also are not structurally designed for anything that moves or flexes like an RV.
House toilets also do not meet RV standards along with all the other afflictions that they bring.
On any bus that has the engine mounted across the back end you have two transmission choices.
Either the stock standard ( aka Spicer or other ) 4-speed non-synchro manual shift.
Or an Automatic 2 or 3 speed such as a VS2 or a V-730 Allison which is 3 speeds with lockup torque converter.
Modifying a bus that had a v-drive manual is a major mechanical job and usually requires some serious
structural changes along with changes to the engine hookups, coolers, struts and lots of labor.
If you are thinking of a Bus with a T-drive engine placement your transmission options are only limited by
the depth of your pocket and space available to stuff a larger transmission into the available space.
Holding Tanks: Whew that's gonna be a tough answer. Some people that have the ingenuity, cash
and space to mount custom tanks use aluminum or stainless tanks. Aluminum is probably not a good
idea due to corrosive salts in human waste and waste water. They will crud up and look nasty in time.
They are expensive too. Stainless tanks are great if you have the time and money and a place to mount it.
The tendancy is more towards Spin Molded tanks ( Plastic ) which are available in almost any size and fairly
inexpensive to buy. They usually are fairly easy to work with and will hold up to vibration and waste products.
Easy to clean and modify. Plastic tanks used for fresh water last a long time, are easy to disinfect and are
not as sensitive to possible freeze damage as metal tanks would be.
Anyway... Everyone has their own ideas on these topics.
I like Plastic tanks and RV toilets and Automatic Transmissions. Someone coined the phrase " Stomp & Steer "
and that's just my opinion... ;D
Hello Frank
I can't help with the other questions but #1 & #6 are somewhat related. Most highway buses are geared rather high. That makes starting from a dead stop harder; hence, rev the engine and "slipping the clutch" is the easy way to start the bus rolling. That practice soon wears the clutch discs out, sometimes warping and damaging the pressure plate and/or flywheel. The proper procedure is to carefully release the clutch while the engine is idling. On occasion, such as when on an incline, that is not possible and you may have to rev the engine a little to get the bus rolling. Try to minimize those occurances. Each one wears the clutch. Eventually you will have to replace it.
By replacing the 4 speed tranny with a 6, 8, 10, or even a 13 speed, you have a lower gear to start in, thereby minimizing clutch wear. An 8 or 10 speed really shines in reverse. If the replacement is an overdrive transmission, you can keep the engine RPMs lower at highway speeds, all other factors being equal.
There are a lot more factors involved but this is a simple, short explanation of a complicated subject.
Obviously, the auto negates the clutch & solves those problems.
I hope this has made it at least as clear as mud! ;D
Happy double-clutching!
TOM
Clutch jobs usually run 1,000-2,000 parts and labor. I have always avoided slipping clutch and never park or stop where I start on an incline or try backing up a hill....Already been posted and saod on toilets and tanks.
My 4106 days were back in the early 80s, but more so today because of age the bulkhead behind the engine would be a major concen. You can look at clearance between the two. I don't remember the distance, 3 or 4 inches. I have seen engines removed to weld and re enforce. That holds the engine and tran weight and can sag and cause problems from chatter, vibration, shifting at the least.
I guess there are a lot of opinions out there on your subjects, but what I'm going to tell you is fact.
House toilets are made that flush with .6 gal of water. A lot of rv tolilets come with a built in garden hose to wash out the inside of the bowl to remove the brown stuff.
By the time you get the bowl clean you have used as much, if not more.
I know several people who have household toilets and not one of them have ever splashed out water from the water closet. I know this because I asked before I bought my toilet.
If your coach rides that rough it's time to get some serious work done to it.
Ask around, and make up your own mind based on fact not on assumptions.
Ed
I can assure you that if either my Eagle or my 4104 rode rough enough to splash water out of the toilet there would have been something extremely wrong. I have never heard of anyone actually experiencing that.
Richard
Quote from: Kristinsgrandpa on October 07, 2006, 07:40:32 PM
II know several people who have household toilets and not one of them have ever splashed out water from the water closet. I know this because I asked before I bought my toilet.
If your coach rides that rough it's time to get some serious work done to it.
Ask around, and make up your own mind based on fact not on assumptions.
Ed
Quote from: Kristinsgrandpa on October 07, 2006, 07:40:32 PM
House toilets are made that flush with .6 gal of water.
Ed
Correct me if I'm wrong but I think you left out a 1 in front of the .6 All the "Normal" household toilets we sell at work are 1.6gpf with a 12"rough. Which brings me to the question, what "rough-in" dimension do rv toilets have? I know household toilets can be purchased in 10, 12, and 14" roughs. I would think a RV toilet would have a smaller "rough-in" dimension due to the fact that there is no tank on the back and the smaller compact space in a RV.
Robert
The RV vs house toilet issue is one which I have wondered about myself, mainly because most RV toilets tend to be ugly, utilitarian-looking things which are much more expensive than a typical, stylish, house toilet (the cost differential may not exist in the States, but it does here where the RV parts market is tiny in comparison to yours). I've no idea what 'rough-in' is. Do I need to know to choose a toilet? The water consumption is unlikely to be much of an issue for me as I will never be outside civilisation with the coach for long enough for the toilet to get much use. Besides, you can easily put a block of polystyrene foam or something in the cistern to reduce it's volume, and a regular house toilet will still flush perfectly satisfactorily using half the usual amount of water
Jeremy
OK,
I guess that there are just people out there that don't understand the why's and where-for's of using a standard
RV style toilet.
1. Valve ~vs~ Trap = ( Odor Control )
2. Space Required to Mount.
3. Slosh Factor ( RV toilets don't slosh ) when you jam on the brakes.
4. Evaporation & Mold Factors in having an unsealed body of water inside a small space that has minimal ventilation.
5. Water consumption issues. If you are hooked up to a large source of water and have large holding tanks or sewer connection-OK.
RV toilets are available in many very nice designs. I chose the Thetford Aria ( all china, large bowl, electronic flush), Sure they cost more. Mine doesn't need a handy spray nozzle and hose because it works fine. There are others like it too.
RV toilets mount directly above the holding tank for a direct drop. If you can't do that then there are Marine Kits that have a built-in macerator pump that can mount anywhere and have a hose to pump to the tank.
If you buy a plastic toilet you get what you pay for. If you base your opinion on the older and much cheaper plastic toilets
you still get what you pay for. A handy dandy can of silicone spray does a nice job of making even a plastic toilet work cleaner
with less needing to spray it down with a hose.
Gawd... The mention of House toilets in buses immediately makes me think of a hippie school bus. Not a Converted Coach!!!
;D ;D :D :D
"Gawd... The mention of House toilets in buses immediately makes me think of a hippie school bus. Not a Converted Coach!!!"
Horses for courses I guess - personally I would much rather my bus have a bathroom like a house than like an RV.
Can you enlighten me on the 'Valve vs Trap' issue? All the other points I can negate with a little bit of thought
Thanks
Jeremy
Jeremy, I too have the Thetford Aria toilet. It has very clean looks, and is ceramic. Looks as good or better than a typical house toilet. Is a little smaller, works better. Very pleased with it.
Quote from: Jeremy on October 08, 2006, 06:59:32 AM
Can you enlighten me on the 'Valve vs Trap' issue? All the other points I can negate with a little bit of thought
Thanks
Jeremy
I'll take a shot at it for ya. RV toilets have a valve that slides out of the way when you flush the toilet. Afterward, it slides back in place to block out odors from escaping back into the coach
A household toilet uses water to block out waste gases. Its the same principle as a "p-trap" on your sinks, but the "p-trap" is built into the base of the toilet in the rear. Next time your in the bathroom, take a look at your toilet and you will notice the curved pipe in the rear of the base. That is designed to hold water and keep waste gases to escape back into your bathroom. Over a period of time, and with the new water conservation acts, the gallons per flush has decreased to 1.6. This meant that in order to get a great flush, the toilet manufacturers had to redesign the toilet and increase the size of the "p-trap" for increased waste removal. In other words, so your toilet doesnt clog ;D
Heres a trivia question for anyone
Can you flush a household toilet without using the flush handle or taking the lid off the tank? :)
Looking at how high the water level gets inside a household toilet tank, I can very well see how it would slosh out at certain times of traveling. Another point to look at would be the "tank-to-bowl gasket" and the tank hold down bolts. If water is allowed to slosh around in the tank, it is very possible for stress cracks to form around the hold down bolts. Also, the tank-to-bowl gasket could possibly lose its seal and start to leak. These components are not designed for vibrations of a motorvehicle.
Vibrations would also probably cause the wax ring on a household toilet to break its seal.
These are just thoughts to ponder and I could be entirely incorrect...........
Robert
Just to add to the discussion, there is the Sloan Flushmate toilet, uses as low as 1 gpf and doesn't have to be located over the tank. A quick internet search finds toilets from various manufacturers using this system around $275.00
http://www.flushmate.com/
Robert said: Heres a trivia question for anyone
Can you flush a household toilet without using the flush handle or taking the lid off the tank?
Yes, just pour water in the tank.
Thats why I love my pool after a hurricane goes through. 18000 gallons of flushing and bathing water until the power comes back on. ;D
Cliff
Quote from: RobertL on October 08, 2006, 08:48:27 AM
A household toilet uses water to block out waste gases. Its the same principle as a "p-trap" on your sinks, but the "p-trap" is built into the base of the toilet in the rear. Next time your in the bathroom, take a look at your toilet and you will notice the curved pipe in the rear of the base. That is designed to hold water and keep waste gases to escape back into your bathroom. Over a period of time, and with the new water conservation acts, the gallons per flush has decreased to 1.6. This meant that in order to get a great flush, the toilet manufacturers had to redesign the toilet and increase the size of the "p-trap" for increased waste removal. In other words, so your toilet doesnt clog ;D
Ok, thanks for the explaination - but now I have another question (sorry if I am being tedious, but it's the only way I'll learn). A standard house toilet has the 'bend' (what you call the "p-trap") cast into it - so if you were to install it into a bus, the bend would still be there, so the 'water trap' to block odours would still be there as well. So wouldn't it continue to work in exactly the same way as it did were it installed in a house? Or am I being really thick and missing something obvious?
I looked up the Thetford Aria, by the way, and as far as I can tell it is not distributed in the UK. I did eventually find some 'nice' RV toilets available here, but they were around FIFTEEN TIMES the price of a regular house toilet - not really an expense I can justify given that I don't expect it will ever get much use.
What I am guessing is that RV toilets have basically been designed to work (or at least not leak water everywhere) in some fairly extreme applications (such in a yacht going through waves while heeling at 45' for example). A coach conversion is probably the
least extreme application of all, which is why I wonder whether you really need to pay all that extra money. Putting aside the potential vibration-related issues, the biggest 'force' you could apply to the toilet in a bus would be violent braking, say combined with a steep downhill grade. My instinct tells me that it wouldn't be difficult to prevent a regular domestic toilet sloshing water everywhere in this situation. I may be wrong, though.
Please be assured that I am not trying to be argumentative. As I heard on Star Trek once:- "I do not question, Master - I merely seek enlightenment"
Jeremy
I have a house type in my Eagle 15 it has a tank inside of the tank it can not let water get out I Love IT
Jeremy, regarding the toilet P-trap, I've found a concern - which may or may not be an issue for others. I travel (flying) a lot on business - used to be gone up to 3 weeks at a time. On returning home, I've found that a great deal of water had evaporated from the bowl. Never quite enough to break the water barrier in the trap, but that looks to me like a matter of time. For the house, we have a standing policy - when we're both gone for over a week, the cat-sitting neighbor flushes each toilet at least once per week.
If the water in the P-trap is the _only_ barrier to sewer gasses (house) or foul odors (bus), evaporation could break the seal. Since my coach may sit, unattended, for long periods in the Texas heat, I wouldn't risk that being the only odor barrier. I may be wrong, just my experience.
Arthur Gaudet Carrollton, TX
Art, a teaspoon of cooking oil of some type will solve that problem of evaporation. Also needed in the kitchen sink, shower, bathroom sink, dishwasher and any other appliance with a trap. I really think it is mostly an old wives tale of water sloshing out of a toilet during hard stops. It is really not physically possible to have a hard stop in a bus. I know, I have had to make a couple of emergency stops, balls to the wall. Never a harsh sudden stop. Period. And the same for mold in a toilet. Who ever heard of such a thing? And if it was in the toilet it would also be in any of the other p-traps in the coach. And they make ceramic toilets that are all one piece molding. No worry about the tank breaking off from the toilet. Some of you guys are starting to sound like FF! LOL
Richard
Quote from: Runcutter on October 08, 2006, 03:46:25 PM
Jeremy, regarding the toilet P-trap, I've found a concern - which may or may not be an issue for others. I travel (flying) a lot on business - used to be gone up to 3 weeks at a time. On returning home, I've found that a great deal of water had evaporated from the bowl. Never quite enough to break the water barrier in the trap, but that looks to me like a matter of time. For the house, we have a standing policy - when we're both gone for over a week, the cat-sitting neighbor flushes each toilet at least once per week.
If the water in the P-trap is the _only_ barrier to sewer gasses (house) or foul odors (bus), evaporation could break the seal. Since my coach may sit, unattended, for long periods in the Texas heat, I wouldn't risk that being the only odor barrier. I may be wrong, just my experience.
Arthur Gaudet Carrollton, TX
The .6 gal flush for a house hold toilet was not a misprint. Lowes has them in stock everywhere and the last time I checked they were $67.95. I have a house hold toilet in my shop, awaiting installation in my coach, that has .6 gal per flush stamped on it.
Also th rv types have to have new seals installed ocasionally and it is really a sh***y job.
They leak and smell, if a fresh seal on the valve isn't present.
Ed
Also a piece of paper caught in the seal will cause it to leak and can damage the seal.
Richard
Quote from: Kristinsgrandpa on October 08, 2006, 05:09:50 PM
The .6 gal flush for a house hold toilet was not a misprint. Lowes has them in stock everywhere and the last time I checked they were $67.95. I have a house hold toilet in my shop, awaiting installation in my coach, that has .6 gal per flush stamped on it.
Also th rv types have to have new seals installed ocasionally and it is really a sh***y job.
They leak and smell, if a fresh seal on the valve isn't present.
Ed
Quote from: Jeremy on October 08, 2006, 01:50:13 PM
I looked up the Thetford Aria, by the way, and as far as I can tell it is not distributed in the UK. I did eventually find some 'nice' RV toilets available here, but they were around FIFTEEN TIMES the price of a regular house toilet - not really an expense I can justify given that I don't expect it will ever get much use.
What I am guessing is that RV toilets have basically been designed to work (or at least not leak water everywhere) in some fairly extreme applications (such in a yacht going through waves while heeling at 45' for example). A coach conversion is probably the least extreme application of all, which is why I wonder whether you really need to pay all that extra money. Putting aside the potential vibration-related issues, the biggest 'force' you could apply to the toilet in a bus would be violent braking, say combined with a steep downhill grade. My instinct tells me that it wouldn't be difficult to prevent a regular domestic toilet sloshing water everywhere in this situation. I may be wrong, though.
Man, RV toilets must be REALLY expensive over in the UK.
Here in the USA, I can get a cheap house toilet for $75 to $100. The Thetford Aquamagic toilet for an RV costs around the same amount. A inexpensive china RV toilet is less than $200. I think it has a plastic seat. A more expensive model with a better seat and such is maybe $300. There are top of the line china toilets that are much more expensive, but that is all I know. I bought a Thetford Bravura toilet for my bus.
Marine toilets are generally different than RV toilets and generally cost more. I know some bus conversions have marine type toilets in them.
Brian Elfert
Wow,
Thanks for all the responses. I had no idea it was so complicated. I can see this is going to be a very
steep learning curve. But this seems to be the right place for it.
Thanks,
Frank
I had sent off for info once on a brand that I do not remember the name but I remember the models one was called the superbowl and the other was the royal flush, the prices I believe were $1000 & $1500. For that price I would expect a wash, a powder & a kiss. I just threw the pamplets away and bought a nice one from Lowes. Ray
And the Japanese are famous for taking toilets to the next level. They have some available for $5500. thats not a typo
They have a wand that comes out and flushes your behind, the seats have an automatic raising or lowering seat, they are heated. Heck, was expecting some action too!
New Design. A Revolution in Hygiene. The Washlet E200 from TOTO.
Adjustable heated water tank
Adjustable rear and front washes
Adjustable Warm air dryer
Convenient remote control
Oscillating comfort wash
Curved rear case fits more French curve toilets
Adjustable, heated, SoftClose seat
To help you create the ambiance of a spa in your own private retreat, TOTO has created the Washlet E200.
Trim. Sleek. Advanced technology. Upon activation, the automatic wand extends to provide a gentle stream of warm aerated water. The result? An unparalleled level of comfort and clean. For maximum soothing, we included a massage feature; a warm-air dryer and a temperature controlled heated seat with energy-saver functionality.
Hearing this talk about .6 gallon flushes in home toilets has me curious. How much do these toilets cost in relation to some of the nicer rv models? Surely they're significantly more expensive than standard home toilets. Where would one find them? I've only seen the 1.6 gallon flush models.
David
H3Jim,
if Toto makes one that blows warm air and massages, do you have a number I can call!
Ray
Quote from: rayshound on October 09, 2006, 02:57:55 PM
H3Jim,
if Toto makes one that blows warm air and massages, do you have a number I can call!
Ray
Yeah, Cat was just saying something like that to me too!
If i got one of them i wouldn't need a bus any more :o
I stayed at the Century Hyatt in Shinjuku, Jp a couple of years ago, They had these TOTO "Robo-Hoppers" in the room. A Bit Disconcerting if you don't know what going on....
BTW, They did have a blow dry option (Heated Air) But the Massage was arranged through the Front Desk and was a bit costly if I remember right
::)
With RV toilets, there is no standing water reservoir in the toilet, it's all in the tank. If you let the regular house type commode sit for awhile (say a couple of months), then wouldn't the water inside get all gross and gunky? Wouldn't you have to drain a regular toilet everytime you parked the bus for more than a few days?
Jus' wonderin' :-\
i bought a thetford bravura aqua magic (foot flush) & it was fine until the warranty expired (3 years) ,so i bought the "kit" ($40.)from thetford which is another rubber seal & that went out in less than a year. when i replace i am going to lowes to get a standard household toilet. no more overpriced RV crap!
Quote from: bergdoll on June 08, 2008, 07:30:43 AM
i bought a thetford bravura aqua magic (foot flush) & it was fine until the warranty expired (3 years) ,so i bought the "kit" ($40.)from thetford which is another rubber seal & that went out in less than a year. when i replace i am going to lowes to get a standard household toilet. no more overpriced RV crap!
Just remember, a standard household toilet typically uses a lot more water to flush. And, I suspect you can't maintain operable levels of water in the tank and bowl while in motion or there will be sloshing problems.
We have an old RV toilet in our Eagle. I say old because it's been the same once since we've owned the coach, 5 years. Only have used it when we went to TBR last year. I will say I was quite surprised on how well it worked, and the seal wasn't dried out so it wouldn't hold a bit of water when the valve is closed. It is plastic and looks like it's been through a tornado. Other than that it will get replaced as probably one of the last things to do on the inside. If it stops working than I'll replace it with one with a softer seat for those long sessions. ::)
Paul
Quote from: HighTechRedneck on June 08, 2008, 07:38:30 AM
Quote from: bergdoll on June 08, 2008, 07:30:43 AM
i bought a thetford bravura aqua magic (foot flush) & it was fine until the warranty expired (3 years) ,so i bought the "kit" ($40.)from thetford which is another rubber seal & that went out in less than a year. when i replace i am going to lowes to get a standard household toilet. no more overpriced RV crap!
Just remember, a standard household toilet typically uses a lot more water to flush. And, I suspect you can't maintain operable levels of water in the tank and bowl while in motion or there will be sloshing problems.
I have read where some people put a couple of bricks in a standard toilet to reduce the amount of water required to fill the tank. They indicated that it worked fine with the reduced amount of water. Also indicated that there was no sloshing problem.
I really do not see that sloshing water out of the toiled would be a problem. Possibly it would empty the trap level enough to allow flumes up into the coach.
Richard
I key word here is EVAPORATION of the water from the P trap, at which time it gets VERY unplesant.>>>Dan
We use an Aqua Magic "Starlite" by Thetford. We got it used from a friend when he replaced the toilet in his 89 Fleetwod Bounder. He said he wanted all the bells and whistles... I don't know about any bells, but I do know about some of the whistles! ;)
I used up two of the foam toilet seals that various RV places sell, and they were gone in less than a year. I finally got ticked off and put a regular wax seal in, like on a house toilet, and it's been sealing well for about 4 years.
When I put it in I used a slide coupling from Lowe's that has 2 rubber seals, it fit's tightly inside a 3" standard PVC waste pipe.
So far, the biggest problem I've had is that the foot peddle is starting to leak at times. It's a wonderful feeling at 03:00 to put your foot on the pedal and have it peee on you. Especially when the water is only about 35°.
I have nothing against China toilets, Mexican toilets, Greek toilets, or even German toilets....... I just want to be comfortable and do my thing when it's needed.
Oh, another thing about the toilet I'm using.... it holds about 4 oz. of water in the bowl, which means the seal doesn't leak at the knife blade. If your's is leaking, get yourself a long shafted skinny flat blade screw driver, heat it up about 2" form the blade and bend it 90°. Then take a pair of vice grips and turn the blade on about a 30° angle. This will let you clean out the slot the knife valve fits in.
I think if I remember correctly, the toilet is rated for about 350 Lbs. which is plenty for the normal person. But don't hold me to that figure or I'll post my thong pictures again!
Dallas
"But don't hold me to that figure or I'll post my thong pictures again!"'
OMG NO! I am still having a hard time with that image. ;D
Paul
Quote from: Utahclaimjumper on June 08, 2008, 10:04:28 AM
I key word here is EVAPORATION of the water from the P trap, at which time it gets VERY unplesant.>>>Dan
If the bus is sitting long enough for the trap to empty just dump either mineral oil or RV antifreeze in the toilet. I think Rv antifreeze would work better personally.
Cover your Eyes!
Quote from: Dreamscape on June 08, 2008, 10:42:39 AM
"But don't hold me to that figure or I'll post my thong pictures again!"'
OMG NO! I am still having a hard time with that image. ;D
Paul
Quote from: DrivingMissLazy on June 08, 2008, 09:08:24 AM
I have read where some people put a couple of bricks in a standard toilet to reduce the amount of water required to fill the tank. They indicated that it worked fine with the reduced amount of water. Also indicated that there was no sloshing problem.
I've been a guest at homes in drought areas where sombody put bricks or other objects in the tank to reduce water consumption. It worked fine for liquid or light stuff, but give them something serious to flush and they just weren't able to move it through.
Quote from: DrivingMissLazy on June 08, 2008, 09:08:24 AM
I really do not see that sloshing water out of the toiled would be a problem. Possibly it would empty the trap level enough to allow flumes up into the coach.
I would encourage anyone considering using a house type toilet to try the following test to determine if it fits their suspension ride and driving habits.
1/3 fill a clean plastic dishpan. Place it on some towels on the floor of the bus. Use some bricks or other heavy objects to block it in to keep it from sliding. Drive a few miles with it like that. Do some realistic braking scenarios (not suggesting panic stops, just various realistic situations), go over some speed humps, through some driveway dips, etc. Afterward, if the towels are still dry, you should be fine with a house style toilet from a sloshing standpoint.
Nothing against China toilets, but we rinse the dishes in a tub, or, that is to say, Cat does. Then when you need to drop the kids at the pool, pour some of the water from the dish pan into the toilet. It reuses water otherwise wasted and helps the kids slide on down the tube!
a composting toilet not only eliminates all water use, but also the need for the plumbing and a black tank, well worth the extra cost .... works for me
Bill
Does anyone have experience with the use of a composting toilet in a RV?
as with most things it comes down to maintenance.
had a Dometic R/V toilet in my 04 had a valve go bad on it twice in 30 years. no other issues.
i just got a Jameco TT6000 one piece toilet for my house/shack at Lowes ($149.) & that is exactly what i will put in my bus to replace the Thetford... same "rough in". my bus rides pretty smooth. i am going to change all of my plumbing to PEX. by the way, a bus is a lot easier to convert to a motorhome than to remodel a hose/shack!?! at least the floor is square! i am remodeling a house/shack i bought in muncie, Indiana for $7,000. (yeah, seven thousand) but it was built by a "brain-dead moron" who should have never-ever built anything!?! now i just have to deal with the real morons who work for the city/county assesors ofc. who are trying to tax me to death...