During a recent prepurchase inspection on a 96 XL with a 60 series took it to a DD shop to have the codes read.
It showed that the low water LEVEL sensor was disabled and the High water temp shutdown was set back to the highest temp for emergency shutdown. although not something you would hope to find not a deal breaker.
So now after racking up some miles I was glad that I did not have DD turn all that back cause we would have been screwed.
Now I know why it was turned back.
That bus ran every bit of 215 pulling a very gradual but long grade on a hot afternoon at 65 mph.
What kind of temps are other 60 series buses seeing in 90+ I'm curious.
My old mechanical 8-V has never climbed over 195 no matter how I drive it.
Both these buses have OTR A/C on them and i know that counts for some but it sure sucks when you gotta take your big shiny XL and back off to below 55 to get up a pretty mild grade without sweating bullits lookin at a 215 water temp gauge.
That dont seem right. Soon as you hit any significant downside it pretty quickly drops to 200 and eventually it will settle at 195.
Series 60's can take 220 degrees with no problems. They were designed to run hotter for better efficiency. Good Luck, TomC
Joe,
I have seen some 60 Series that run constantly around 200-215 all day long. But in reality they should run around 195 +/- a little.
That said one operator I know always told not to worry his buses always ran around 210.
I was always nervous but they always got me (& the people) where we were going & back!
Ours mainly run around 195 +/- and here the last week or two with the real hot days and high humidity levels they've been running right @ 200
;D BK ;D
Check the turbo boost Joe a few pounds off they will heat on a pull unlike a 8v92 they move they heat out with the turbo not water,A DDEC 111 or IV ? waste gate turbo ? My 96 series 60 was 405 hp with a DDEC 111 and ran hot DD upgrade me to a DDEC IV 470 hp and a waste gate turbo problems stopped for me.
Prevost did some weird crap in 1996 I hated the IFS on mine they worked it all the time but never cost me LOL
good luck
Any one know what thermostats it's running, maybe tlme for a cooler stat?
I can think of 3 or 4 places that have signs along the hiway telling everyone to shut off the ac so they don't overheat. If you are worried about the temp rising and you still have otr heat you can turn it on to help dump heat too. Might be a little uncomfortable for a couple of miles but a lot better than blowing and engine or being stuck on the side of the road waiting for it to cool down. Don't know why everyone is so afraid of opening their windows and sweating a little,..... :) Anymore it seems like we are becoming a nation of wimps.......can't handle it if it hits 70 degrees or more. Ed, not a big user of ac. ;D
[quote author=Ed Hackenbruch link=topic=20923.msg228333#msg228333 date=13118 Don't know why everyone is so afraid of opening their windows and sweating a little,..... :) Anymore it seems like we are becoming a nation of wimps.......can't handle it if it hits 70 degrees or more. Ed, not a big user of ac. ;D
[/quote]
Ya,Ed remember the 70,s gas went to 68 cents,worked for a outfit that if you had air they would cut the belts off it so you couldn't use it, said it wasted to much fuel.
Matt
Joe,
DDEC III, heats to about 208, fan turns on to reduce temp to 195, fan turn off and warms back up, cycle continues.
Ed Roelle
Give your ego a rest and slow down to 55-60, you will be pleased with the results.
After all, half the fun is the driving!
I top lots of long grades at 35-45 and don't mind it a bit.
I don't even mind topping out a grade at 20-25 as long as there is a passing lane available for the people who are faster than me. Even at those speeds i usually end up passing a semi or two. ;D
I don't think that is going to happen guys with a bus that was designed to run as fast up hill as down hill it's not you fathers Oldsmobile he is driving lol I could pull the Eisenhower Tunnel with mine after the up grade at 55 and 60 mph
good luck
Mine runs between 192 to 197.. I have my cooling fan running constant.
Zeroclearence-What did you do mechanicly lock it out with the bolts or do it electricly?
I am happy to have leardned that wanting to be going up a slight grade at 65 is egotistical.
Thanks for that advice now I have my head in the right place.
i run 150 with crappy fluid and 170 with straight water. i just invested $200 in antifreeze so i guess i will be running 120
My 4104 with its 671 has been running hotter during these 95deg+ temps.
I'm used to seeing it run 170-180deg, but these last few weeks it has been running around 190-200deg.
Usually during the summer I close off the heater send/return pipes to prevent heat from radiating up into the bus. But I have opened them back up so there is more coolant for the engine to circulate. (I covered the vents to prevent warm air coming out)
I also took the time to clean my radiator and fan blades from all of the road dirt.
It is running a little cooler (185-195deg)
.
Joe, I welded the hub so that the hub and clutch are now fused together. I'm not driving the bus in cold weather. The engine thermostats will modulate the temp that it needs. I just want the maximum airflow going thru my A/C condensor, Intercooler and radiator!
BTW, did you have your ECU reflashed?
no. I was waiting for another call??
What was the reason for welding it instead of just inserting the 2 lock out bolts?
Joe,
No malice intended-all in good bus fun!
My comment was along the line of "slow down and smell the roses"!!
I'm sorry as well.
Still wondering why zeroclearence went that extra mile to weld that hub when it is designed with lock out bolts right into it.
Are they not up to the task? Prone to failure.I know they are there but have never needed to use them.
Joe, I called a few individuals and they both recommended that I weld it up. The clutch has failed in certain buses causing the fan to launch into your radiator.
I actually have my radiator out, I'm waiting for gaskets to rebuild it.
Quote from: Zeroclearance on July 30, 2011, 09:50:03 AM
Joe, I called a few individuals and they both recommended that I weld it up. The clutch has failed in certain buses causing the fan to launch into your radiator.
I actually have my radiator out, I'm waiting for gaskets to rebuild it.
Now that is a GOOD reason if I ever heard one. :o
John
Yikes
Back to basics now you have what I had from the start.
Trial by fire..
Rebuild radiator
Replace turbocharger (FOD) damage to the compressor wheel >> and I should know better since I build the stupid things!
Valve adjustment>> NOTE to those BUS NUTS that have Series 60's.. The intake valves get tight and should be at least checked more often. Mine are extremely tight and I haven't reached the manuals Timed Interval.
My downpipe flange was cracked at the turbocharger. $115 for a new one.
Joe, I am mentioning all of this so that you can go over an above your PPI.
Joe, I am thinking you may have a bad clutch drive all series 60 that I have been around in Prevost the fan doesn't turn till the temps reach 196* for the first speed then 203* for the second speed and if they have a transmission retarder it is supposed to bypass 1 and go to the 2nd speed when you hit the retarder it is programed in the ECM to work that way.
FWIW that is a high dollar clutch also
seems like you would give up some mileage and hp going direct
good luck
Quote from: luvrbus on July 28, 2011, 06:26:47 AM
Check the turbo boost Joe a few pounds off they will heat on a pull unlike a 8v92 they move they heat out with the turbo not water,A DDEC 111 or IV ? waste gate turbo ?upgrade me to a DDEC IV 470 hp and a waste gate turbo problems stopped for me. My 96 series 60 was 405 hp with a DDEC 111 and ran hot DD
Prevost did some weird crap in 1996 I hated the IFS on mine they worked it all the time but never cost me LOL
good luck
65 HP stronger. A waste gated turbo is more responsive....me thinks, and RAN COOLER. Where is the decision problem? What did that upgrade cost?
John