My engine tends to emit a lot of noise and heat going down the road. The bunks are in the back and it is difficult to sleep going down the road due to the heat and noise combination.
I am trying to figure out something cheap and quick I can do in the next 5 weeks to combat this issue. I don't care what it looks like really. Everything is just exposed plywood and doesn't look good. I'm thinking about putting foam board with the foil on it over the plywood and caulking the edges to make do for this year's upcoming trips.
Any suggestions? I know about lots of long term fixes, but I'm not ready for that right now.
Hey Brian, i did a good overlapping layer of heavy tar paper then i used some sheet lead over that. you can get both at a roofing supply. I got my lead from a plumbing supply, damaged sheets they use for shower pans but not as popular now. Then i put foil sided bubble wrap type insulation then my 3/4 ply floors and carpet padding then the rug over that. All the seams were taped and it works well for noise and heat. big difference. good luck. lots of info in the archives on busnuts and probably here as well,
Quote from: DMoedave on July 23, 2011, 05:12:02 PM
Hey Brian, i did a good overlapping layer of heavy tar paper then i used some sheet lead over that. you can get both at a roofing supply. I got my lead from a plumbing supply, damaged sheets they use for shower pans but not as popular now. Then i put foil sided bubble wrap type insulation then my 3/4 ply floors and carpet padding then the rug over that. All the seams were taped and it works well for noise and heat. big difference. good luck. lots of info in the archives on busnuts and probably here as well,
Doesn't long time exposure to lead cause brain damage?'
BCO
Right now I'm just looking for something quick and cheap. At some point I'll do it right.
Lead is fine when it is covered. If memory serves I think Prevost still uses lead sheet in their shells.
Don't know about their shipping. Just food thought ;).
http://www.jcwhitney.com/jcwhitney/textsearch_result.jcw?sku=isulation&shopid=100002&_requestid=10382138 (http://www.jcwhitney.com/jcwhitney/textsearch_result.jcw?sku=isulation&shopid=100002&_requestid=10382138)
quick cheap couple layers old carpet with pad between them insulation and sound dead
I have always used airtight plus weight plus no direct transfer as the best to hold vibration....in this application I would use
layer plastic
layer carpet or foam backing
layer cement board or lead (floated it possible)
layer plastic
layer carpet or foam
finish surface (floated if possible)
Quote from: boxcarOkie on July 23, 2011, 05:30:19 PM
Quote from: DMoedave on July 23, 2011, 05:12:02 PM
Doesn't long time exposure to lead cause brain damage?'
BCO
Well, there might be something to that, BCO. A VERY high percentage of this list's members grew up in houses with lead pipes, lead paint and around cars using leaded gasoline. And today....
WE ARE... BUSNUTS!!!
Like Bob said carpet works well. We stuck four layers in the back of ours and it made a huge difference.
The cheapest is going to be using something you already have or can get for free. If this is just temp then my advice is do not spend any cash. When you spend cash make sure and get what you want to end up with, not just a temp fix or you will just be throwing cash away.
Heavy quilts or even layers of cardboard make for good insulation and sound absorbers, as is extra plywood you may have laying around or carpet pieces. Freecycle is a good source for left over insulation from a remodeling job. Those popcorn packing things make for good insulation and so does perlite and vermiculite..... with these just stuff a bunch into plastic shopping bags. Source your local storage shed company and ask them if you can go dumpster diving ;D I work at one and there is always popcorn things and cardboard back there, often some really cool stuff too!
A PO had left us with two moving appliance blankets under the bed, over the engine, that seem to work quite well. I added a layer of firewall heat resistant material used in hot rods under 1/2 plywood.
I've never tried to sleep with the engine running cause I'm at the wheel all the time. ;) I can barely hear the ole Detroit up front, but then again my hearing aint what it used to be either. ::)
What would be a good way to secure carpet if I used that? Usually when dampening sound you don't want to fasten with mechanical fasteners as they tend to transmit the sound.
Teresa, I don't mind spending $50 or so on a temporary fix. I've wasted a lot more money than that on stupider things.
Find a construction site for a flat metal roof commercial building. A lot of times they put 2 inch dense foam sheets with a tar paper like coating on one side on top of the metal roof before putting down a rubber roof. You may be able to get some large scrap. Also look for scrap of the rubber roof to put between layers of plywood.
Art
No need to mount the carpet, just lay it down. In my bus we rolled it up the walls about 1.5'. We are just using our bus as a big metal tent for the summer and it keeps it cooler in the back and the carpet is alot nicer and cleaner then the factory flooring and walls.
Quote from: belfert on July 24, 2011, 06:21:57 AM
What would be a good way to secure carpet if I used that? Usually when dampening sound you don't want to fasten with mechanical fasteners as they tend to transmit the sound.
The trick is to minimize the fasteners and where you must use them try to use something like a bit of the isolation strapping they use for mounting drywall to studs.
I do remember after a long, long drive with cooler temps and finding a place to call it quits that I sure enjoyed the nice warm bed and such that the ole Detroit gave me!!
The whole reason I am trying to do this cheap and quick is because I have no idea how I want to finish the area. I don't want to do all the work and then rip it out later because it won't work with my final plan.
I shouldn't have any problem getting carpet. I will have to secure it along one edge so it doesn't just slide down.
Brian, I don't know if your bus has access panels in the floor at the rear. Eagles do and if you don't get the hold down screws tight, (or don't install them) I am told that the pressure in the engine compartment can lift the panels. That might be a good reason for the lead. It is easy to install and you can reuse it when you do the area for real.
Jim
Quote from: belfert on July 24, 2011, 06:21:57 AM
Teresa, I don't mind spending $50 or so on a temporary fix. I've wasted a lot more money than that on stupider things.
LOL!! I was born in Arkansas......... what can I say?
Teresa, with the heart of a true redneck ;D
I put 3 1/2" Roxul insulation on the interior side of the fire wall over the engine area. Ferred it out with 2x4's and covered it with 3/4" plywood. No noise or heat.
Roxul is good for a 1000 deg C. and is sound proof ... I used it in the generator area too.
I put 2 inch foam board screwed to the floor under our bed. The outside of the bed is not done but it cut a lot of heat.
Really, maybe you should go ahead and get foam board. It is cheap and easy to lay down, tape the edges together and then redesign and reuse later when you know what you want.......
problem with foam board is it is flammable and toxic...plus I would guess off gasses in high heat... Roxul is pretty great if you can spare the inches..
There is a outfit in Wayzata MN RPP (spelling?) where I ordered the lead lined drywall and plywood from when needed maybe they have some reject stuff that would work for you.
I have done special orders with them for 3/4 and 1/2 plywood with different lead thickness the 1/4 inch lead sandwich 4 x 8 is some heavy stuff 1/32 is not bad
good luck