Just threw this out on another forum thought Id share it here too.
tried to simply download the file but could not was told it was too big
http://prevostmotorhomes.ning.com/profiles/blogs/how-prevo-levellow-works (http://prevostmotorhomes.ning.com/profiles/blogs/how-prevo-levellow-works)
What's the password?
What are you talking about
Is it ABRRA-SOMETHING-KA-SOMETHING? ???
Well I guess it cant be opened eh? I can
try this
http://api.ning.com/files/VfndXu3cHblK (http://api.ning.com/files/VfndXu3cHblK)*GN3kSALRt9cKfP2GVtpdhYYUS-ee2ECgMhfhKAv6OtAcbLgblMwuyLA4Hp9LVhcnX-J*C*1tTclvCkpte0M/Suspension_revision_1218200911.pdf
That dont work either I need to figure this out. If your a prevo owner you will really appreciate what im trying to share.
This is a PDF file I am moving here from the documents on my laptop why cant it be opened by others help me out here.
It was passed to me and I had no problems opening and filing it?
It wasn't too hard to join the forum... I just used my secret handshake... ;D
Joe,
First link worked great.
Thanks for the info that really helps to see the logic behind the Prevost magic!
let's try this again-->
http://api.ning.com/files/VfndXu3cHblK (http://api.ning.com/files/VfndXu3cHblK)*GN3kSALRt9cKfP2GVtpdhYYUS-ee2ECgMhfhKAv6OtAcbLgblMwuyLA4Hp9LVhcnX-J*C*1tTclvCkpte0M/Suspension_revision_1218200911.pdf
nope - didn't work
Just cut and past the complete URL into the address line - that works
Very interesting info / diagrams
IMHO very unnecessarily overly complicated. It is a wonderful in-site to the thought process that goes into the design of these chassis. This is the kind of complexity you see all over the chassis.
Anything you need to do is going to be a project. Everything is over engineered to death.
For example another great little gizmo they have to run the cost and complexity up, the automatic tag dump. They optioned that option.
All automatically controlled with a limit switch attached to the drag link. When you turn past point X the tag automatically dumps. On " meir normal prevo" the reaction and performance of this feature is dramatically reduced due to the fact that all the weight of the tag transfers to the drives those bags cant react quick enough ans subsequently the drive axle squats almost as much as the tag raises.
Not to fear they added air over hydraulic shocks on the drive axle inboard and in addition of the standard rear outboard shocks.
When the tag dumps these automatically en gauge and lock out keeping the drive axle from squatting letting the tag lift preform way way better.
The cost of keeping all this stuff up can be staggering if you can not do things yourself. I see many of these air over hyd shock systems taken off line
I was checking out a new Van Hool that used that system it's going to be a nightmare later in life lol besides being a Van Hool
good luck
Its the shocks themselves I do not think they are big enough to hold up 30000+ They all blow seals and leak profusely the reservoir is very remotely located and small and drains quickly often not even noticed, most folks have no clue the components are even there.
If you are a grease monkey and have it Its very cool ;D Bling for the engineers.
I been following John over on the BNO to see how leveling a Prevost with the front 2 air bags is going to work for him bypassing the Lo Buoy front system
good luck
I was watching and looking at that too. If that system functions as designed it is a wonderfully simpler design and solution to making levelers out of the exzisting suspension.
Funny thing.... on my H model, I park then dump the air in my tags and the rear of the bus goes down level. I then hit my kneeling button and the front goes down. While the front slowly drops, I watch my interior level that I installed and when near level, I turn the ignition off. Oh forgot to mention, the engine was already shut down when leveling! If the front isnt quite low enough I just turn the ignition back on, hit the kneeling button again and lower to where I want it and then tutn ignition off again. So far, almost every place I have parked has worked out very well. Only place I remotely remember that this didnt work was Palmetto cove but the whole place is on a hill to begin with. Boards under one front tire solved the problem!
On the HWH site they have a lot of info and drawing (15 pages) on the Prevost leveling system the Vantare had a HWH air leveling system seen those on other Prevost also
good luck
I haven't opened the link. However, on my H3, I usually will adjust my left and right level by dumping my left or right air bags. I will drop the front usually 3 to 4 inches to get a nice front to rear level. It's a nice feature. It works for me. At around 4 or 5 days I need to re-adjust. Usually my left side with the slides will droop.
I just built my own level system. level it once and it's good for as long as you are parked. return it to neutral position when your ready to hit the road and she airs up to travel position. Support air compressor runs about 2 minutes every 24 hrs. Kiss principle. Takes about 30 seconds to level. Parked 2 1/2 months last time out.Takes a tight air system! maintained at 80lbs. Bob
Zero clearance not all chassis have the level-low feature you and I enjoy only the empty shells that came out to be sent to the converters had it.
All the coaches that came from prevo as charters only have the ability to dump the front down or "kneel it". The charter chassis also do not have the ability to level side to side (do anything manually with the drive axle). At best they will be exercising Aces method.
Another issue is the original front bags on the straight axle and the "260" part from Prevo, they can not raise the front end when you are loaded up. Replacement for these bags is Prevo # 259 those will get it up in a hurry. I have worked on quite a few motorhomes with the 260's and some do not even have the ability to get to ride height much less above that point.
If your current front air bags are up to the task you should be able to raise the front 4 full inches above ride height.
Zeroclearence 1 other thing you said the left rear goes down but very slowly. I concour if it takes 5 days that is really not bad at all.
Should it get worse here is a way to isolate the leak further and find the leak quicker.
Your Left-Rear leak will be 1 of 2 spool valves or the 3 air bags right there at the L-R
On a side note when the front leans it has nothing to do with the front, side to side is all done at the rear that is the only place the leans can come from. The front is a third point the two sides are connected it cant make the bus lean just drop when it leaks.
So how to see whats leaking
Put it in level-low and raise the rear all the way up, both sides. Then dump or raise the tag and turn the bus off and leave it. If the leans still persist it is the 3 position (5-way) Norgren or the 2 drive axle bags or corresponding fittings or lines. If the leans go away with the tag up and it stays level it will be the 2 position (3-way) norgren valve or the tag bag on that corner.
Some years have a r12 valve plumbed off the feed for the tag bag you can look up there to see I do not know exactly what years did this but it was early 90. It closes the air to the tag brakes when its up so you dont scuff and flat spot the tag tires.
Hope that helps some. Nothing uglier than a big shiny bus with the leans in the morning ::)