Trying to remove the inner tire in the right rear so that I can install blocking plates on the airbags. Just snapped one of the cap nuts?(inner lug nuts) off, still have 4 more to remove. Guess I will have to drill out and replace the stud. Any suggestions?
If I remember rite. you will need to remove brake drum and there will be a jam nut on back and you can loosen and back stud out and screw new one in. Might be easier to remove hub and drum in one piece. been awhile since I have done it. But I didn't have to drill it out. Someone probably cross threaded nut on stud. Make sure someone didn't put a Left hand thread or right hand thread on wrong side. Look on end of stud for L. It has happened. Good luck: Bob
They make a variety of special tools for this very situation....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Budd-Wheel-Inner-Nut-Remover-RIGHT-HAND-Thread-4904-/250719222019 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Budd-Wheel-Inner-Nut-Remover-RIGHT-HAND-Thread-4904-/250719222019)
http://bhjinc.com/mb_ind/ (http://bhjinc.com/mb_ind/)
http://www.toolzone.com/acatalog/Tool_Zone_Catalog_Broken_Cap_Nut___Wheel_Stud_Removal_Tools_4079.html (http://www.toolzone.com/acatalog/Tool_Zone_Catalog_Broken_Cap_Nut___Wheel_Stud_Removal_Tools_4079.html)
I've found that Kroil is the best for loosening stuck parts ( http://www.kanolabs.com/ (http://www.kanolabs.com/) ) as well as heat..
The reason I am thinking I will need to drill it out is that most of the cap nut if still there, so I can't remove the tire yet.
though you had broken stud . the problem you have is more simple-tire shops have a tool that takes what is left of the nut off they break them all the time= I have one but it is in Indiana- not much good to you there- see if you break any more. Might be stud is still good and damage is just to nut. Bob Ps service call might be cheapest way.
Soak it real good with Parts Blaster overnight tap it with a 4 lb hammer for a minute buy the square drive socket and drive it on it should come loose tire shops do that and they also grind square heads on the nut or you can buy the grooved socket tire shops use and drive it on but I never was able to make one of those work. Depending on how much of the nut is left a 24 inch pipe wrench will work also heat it and let it cool
good luck
In the rust belt, this is routine Budd work.
In skilled hands, an oxy-fuel torch would make quick work of this situation -or- a real mess, in less skilled hands.
As I recall gulfyankee's profession, I'd guess that he or a coworker would posses the skill level needed to either heat, or thin, or peel the inner nuts away, without so much as nicking or overheating the studs or wheel.
Ted
Get out the torch and cut what you can off. If you mess up the inner threads you'll have to remove the drum and put in a new stud.
One way to remove stuck nuts is drill axially through the nut, on opposite sides, with a small drill bit, then pound a chisel into the nut where the drill hole is. The nut will spilt, and removal is easy. Bigger nut, bigger bit.
Ok, finally did get the inner wheel off. Did bugger up the stud.....so now am in the process of removing the brake drum. I've got the 5 screws out. Drum won't move. At all. Won't even spin. The brake linings are stock in place tight against the drum. Got everything soaking for the night, going to try it again in the morning. So frustrating!
did you release the parking brake?
Parking brake is in the driveshaft
Quote from: gulfyankee on May 25, 2011, 04:32:12 PM
. . .now am in the process of removing the brake drum. I've got the 5 screws out. Drum won't move. At all. Won't even spin. The brake linings are stock in place tight against the drum. Got everything soaking for the night, going to try it again in the morning. So frustrating!
If the bus has recently been driven or rolled, shoes shouldn't be stuck to drum. Maybe slack adjuster needs to be backed off, or possibly cam is tight and needs a smack to move slack adjuster towards chamber, thus moving shoes off high-cam and away from drum.
Ted
6 ton bottle jack from the lip of the brake drum to the axle u bolt got it off easily!
Wow outboard drums on a 58, never would of thought
I just replaced a handfull of studs on my MC-7. I have a printout of common studs for buses if that will help you. On mine, you can remove the drum and leave the hub on the spindle. Then you remove the nut on the backside of the wheel stud and pound it out through the hub. I took the hub off anyway to clean the bearings and replace the wheel seal. This made it a lot easier to work with with the hub on the ground rather than working with it on the bus. Good Luck. Studs usually come ten at a time when purchasing. $$