On our 1948 Silversides I have replaced the slider windows with solid flat auto glass. I used the rope style adhesive that auto glass installers use to hold them in. I have just noticed that three of the glass windows have cracks ( I am assuming from the intense heat down here in southwest Florida). So I have to replace the glass, does anyone know how I can get the glass out without breaking it? I seem to remember some sort of heating iron on an angle that I saw them use once, maybe that was in the dark ages but other than that, I am stumped on this one. Can anyone help?
dave
there are bead removal tools, both heated and not. You just gotta get the knife between the bead (in your case the rope bead i guess) and the glass. Or make your own tool. Won't hurt to damage the glass since you are going to replace it anyway. I normally take my air chisel with my special made end and just work my way around, then clean the channel. When replacing a glue in winshield, I dont use the rope stuff anymore as it isnt as adhesive, but use the 3m stuff in the tube. (abt 12.00) available at the automotive paint shop. this stuff is great for gluing lots of other stuff, but its a bit messy...
If im getting a windshield or glass out of a wrecking yard, im very careful...
Dave, there is a tool made for that cost around 20 bucks for it and the blades try Amazon they have it
good luck
Thanks for the tips guys, Loverbus what is the name of that tool? Do you have any idea?
Dave
Dave ,just checked Amazon it is a SG Tool Aid 87900 14.95 on sell but there are other brands also
good luck
Thank you luvrbus, I just ordered the tool.
dave
also--> http://www.harborfreight.com/windshield-removing-tool-99892.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/windshield-removing-tool-99892.html)
Quote from: norules on May 06, 2011, 08:26:48 AM
also--> http://www.harborfreight.com/windshield-removing-tool-99892.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/windshield-removing-tool-99892.html)
I have one of these. Not my first choice but will get the job done. They dont sell replacement blades either or atleast thats what they told me.
Are you sure that heat is making them crack? It sounds like flexing or something similar may be the blame. Otherwise, every vehicle in South Florida, Arizona, Texas, etc., would have a bunch of broken glass.
Thats a good point. Maybe to tight in a recessed hole?
auto glass cracks out here in the hot on a regular basis. the trick is to leave one window open. It might have something to do with flex, or letting out that little bit of heat...... Im not sure. But I know if all the windows are up, the windshield cracks
Does here too in Mojave Valley AZ it's real bad if you have the foil windshield cover on the inside with out a window down a little, 105 here today lol
good luck
Dave if you have reflective Window Tint it will also overheat the glass and help crack or dry rot the seals, Remember NO reflective on the inside, that's how you bake a potato, or a window,
Quote from: Bill 340 on May 06, 2011, 06:00:11 PM
Dave if you have reflective Window Tint it will also overheat the glass and help crack or dry rot the seals, Remember NO reflective on the inside, that's how you bake a potato, or a window,
So the shinny windshield covers are a bg no no?
I have been looking for the material to make a set.
I have dark gray tint (non reflective) on the inside of the windows. So the reflective cause is out. I made the templates for the glass and there is 1/4" all around the edges if each window. That 1/4" was filled with black GE silicone and to this day is still supple, so I don't think it was being in too tight of a hole as the problem. BUT, there was a summer when I had the bus parked facing south, (and closed up tight in the sun). The three cracked windows are on the west facing side, so I really feel that it was the heat as the cause of the cracking. (Yesterday in the grocery store that I work and large front window (made from tempered glass) cracked on it's own, no one touched it and it just fell into a pile of rubble with a huge explosive sound. The heat here is horrible, and all windows really need outside protection.
I can't wait to get the windows fixed, I haven't noticed the cracks before and now I know they are there they stick out like a red flag.
Dave
If the tape you used is very thin it may not have the flex needed to allow the glass and frame to expand/contract in opposition to each other. My work Van has glue in glass that uses a very tall triangular bead of sealant. When the glass is installed, sealant "smushes" down, there is still 1/4" of flex material left to allow for play.
OK, if the bead is too small, what would be a good way to adhere the glass into aluminum frames that don't move?
Dave
Im not sure of the time line, but all auto glass today is being installed with Urethane adhesive, with the idea that the glass is a structural member. And as newer cars were built with stiffer glass frames and designed specifically for Urethane adhesive, this works well.
Older cars however, may not be so tolerant, and the glass channel itself was never designed for that kind of ahesive. They used Butyl Rubber for nearly 100 years and it worked just fine. That is what the Silverside was put together with 60 years ago, and using Urethane may possibly be whats cracking the glass. The Bus is flexible, and its going to move somewhat as you travel, and some of that movement will be around the window frames and be transfered to the glass. Trying to place ridgid panels in a wall thats designed to flex could lead to problems elsewhere as well.
The little bit that ive tried removing glass installed with Urethane, I found it to be extremely strong and hard to remove. Salvage yards use a hot knife and can get a windshield out without breaking it. Any other means will have the glass in a million pieces.
A trick that derby drivers use is to spray the rubber with wd40 or with pb blaster. It will eat at the rubber and make it ALOT easier to cut.