I had another inner on my drive axle blow, this time it only took out one of my airbags before I noticed it.
Yeesh.
Thinking about getting a wireless tire pressure monitoring system, since I evidently fail to notice in time when one of the inners blows.
Regardless, the truck repair shop that fleeced me when they fixed it at least gave me the (hopefully correct) information that this had happened to me twice because the bushings on my drive axle were worn, allowing the drive axle to travel side to side enough to slowly wear on the inside tires. I'm going to bring it into a shop I trust to take a look, but has anyone heard about this happening on one of their buses and have an idea of what the repair costs are?
I had a guy around mount eagle do mine about 9 years ago and boy did it make a difference on how the bus handles. I think I paid him 600 labor at the time. I used the energy poly bushings.
Some guys do these them selves. Should be able to buy the for 25.00. 4 rods? 2on each rod. Maybe a 8 hour day if things don't go good. Tom Y
Looks like you need to check your tires more often.>>>Dan
Tires blow when they get old and the ply starts to separate. When your diiferential radius rod bushings wear out the bus steering tends to wander, they don't make the tires blow.
Bushings are super cheap. I'm doing a brake fire rebuild and I think the bushings were $7 each from Prevost so I'm doing everything even the ones not effected by the heat. Just make sure to support anything that might move when you release rod ends. I plan on this being a one time job for me as long as I use the bus. should last hundreds of thousands of miles. Bob
A tire pressure monitoring system is easily worth the money.
I resisted the cost for years but now would never want to be without it.
Get a good 4 wheel alignment after you change the bushings and check all the u-bolt hangers while you are under there.
Quote from: Geoff on April 15, 2011, 07:49:43 AM
Tires blow when they get old and the ply starts to separate. When your diiferential radius rod bushings wear out the bus steering tends to wander, they don't make the tires blow.
That is not true. Worn out bushings will wear on a tire like nothing else. Especially if you are running recaps on the drives. They will not last long. I know from experience , change my bushings and no more tire problems.
The 25.00 I said should be a max for plastic. I would think the 7.00 is for rubber? I had put all plastic (urethane) in mine and went back to rubber in the rear. Tom Y
Quote from: Geoff on April 15, 2011, 07:49:43 AM
When your diiferential radius rod bushings wear out the bus steering tends to wander, they don't make the tires blow.
The mechanic that looked at it would disagree with you, not to mention the fact that both of my inners blew in a perfectly even wear on the inside. That area behind the inners is polished clean on the bus, something that I mistakenly attributed to the wear of the steel belting when the tire blew, but the mechanic says it happens over much more time.
People are talking about doing this work themselves - but I presume I'd need to probably pull the wheels off which I don't have the air tools for.. Or is it possible to do this with the wheels still on?
Quote from: daveola on April 16, 2011, 10:25:32 PM
[People are talking about doing this work themselves - but I presume I'd need to probably pull the wheels off which I don't have the air tools for.. Or is it possible to do this with the wheels still on?
I just changed 4 wheels, moved the outside rears forward and swapped them with the fronts, and broke all the lugs by hand with a cheater pipe and spun em off and on with a 1/2 inch ingersol impact, then used the pipe to cheat em down by hand. It was hard work, I aint gonna kid ya, but its doable if you slow down and pace yourself and drink some water. Just take your time.
Tom Y, why did you switch back to rubber???
Quote from: daveola on April 16, 2011, 10:25:32 PM
People are talking about doing this work themselves - but I presume I'd need to probably pull the wheels off which I don't have the air tools for.. Or is it possible to do this with the wheels still on?
On my 4104 it is doable but with the tires off. If your MCI is anything like a '04 you will be needing air tools and probably some hammer wrenches, big old bolts in some tight spaces.
You might want to get a torque wrench and check to see if you got the lug nuts in the 450-500lb. range. Just using a cheater bar you could be quite a ways off one way or another.
I've done the bushings on an MCI several times and I suggest Dave have it done at a competent shop since he doesn't have all the needed tools and equipment to do it safely.
;D BK ;D
Artvonne, I changed to see if it would make it make the dropbox run less noisy-smoother. I could not see any difference at all, some have said it would. Tom Y
On cars they put urethane/plastic bushings to tighten/stiffen the ride and because they wear out slower. I don't care for them on cars but I don't race so the harshness is not appreciated.....I have no idea how they would affect a bus in handlling but they probably wear slower.
Quote from: Ed Hackenbruch on April 17, 2011, 05:26:26 AM
You might want to get a torque wrench and check to see if you got the lug nuts in the 450-500lb. range. Just using a cheater bar you could be quite a ways off one way or another.
The way those big lugs tighten up, and because they are dry, they creak and jerk as you get tight. Squalking is the word I think. A torque wrench could easily read high enough torque without actually being anywhere near the indicated torque. This was the reasoning behind changing the way head bolts were torqued, where many now torque to a lower torque indication, then a further 90 degrees. They need to be well oiled and very clean to get to full torque without jerking. The 90 degree crank puts all the bolts at more equal torque.
I'll stick to using a bigger bar where I can feel them get fully tight.
Quote from: daveola on April 16, 2011, 10:25:32 PM
Quote from: Geoff on April 15, 2011, 07:49:43 AM
When your diiferential radius rod bushings wear out the bus steering tends to wander, they don't make the tires blow.
The mechanic that looked at it would disagree with you..
But my "home" mechanic does not, so he (and I) stand corrected. Looks like there's more than enough clearance between the inners and the shocks/chassis/suspension/etc.. such that it can't make the tires blow, don't know why the emergency mechanic told me otherwise, since he certainly wasn't going to profit from it.
At this point the best guess is that the inners were recaps (they came on the bus) and after a few thousand miles they both decided to blow in the way that they did. A bit of bad luck, possibly, but probably not much more. Time to get some spare air bags to carry around so I don't get fleeced on the emergency air bag delivery again.
Unfortunately my "home" mechanic found some other problems on my bus, but that's another post..