Hey Gang
One of my first projects on my new bus is finishing the exterior and paint. I need to install some new aluminum sheet siding or fiberglass on the top half of the bus there is some fiberglass there already but I want to change it. Also need to get bus painted.
Any recomendations on what to use the previous owner used some fiberglass textured material and I wanted a smooth finish
Does any body know someone they can recommend that does a good job within 400 to 500 miles of Little Rock, Arkansas
Thanks Kerry
You don't want fiberglass or aluminum on the side of your Eagle it will always wave use steel for best results
good luck
Kerry you have just gotten some very valuable advice from the "Yoda" of bus conversions in general and "Godfather" of anything EAGLE!
I'd say get his # and see if you can contract this to him or one of his many close friends who know Eagles inside, outside and underside better than Eagle themselves!
;D BK ;D
I ended up going with steel for my siding.. I bought 4ft x 10ft sheets of 16 gauge flat steel sheets which equals 1/16" thick. The full sheets weigh around 95 pounds per sheet but I cut mine down to 35" x 10 ft before installing them. Here in North Carolina I paid $73.00 per sheet x 4 sheets. Thats enough siding to cover 20ft on each side which is what I needed. They are thin enough to drill pretty easy but thick enough to install flat without having to try and stretch them. The steel will surface rust pretty quick so you'll need to get something sprayed on them soon.. I just used some spray bombs of red primer to keep the surface rust down until I can get some paint on them. Btw..Aluminum sheets 4ft x 10ft were almost twice the price at $138.00 per sheet..
Jimmy
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi783.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fyy114%2FHighwayYacht%2FMC-9%2FDSC01762.jpg&hash=b68ca44f1ffa27d640f50f1cfdff2d46c7354393)
If you have your measurements a lot of companies can shear the panels to the size you need. That gives you a nice edge and also eliminates any warpage that a plasma cutter or worse a torch would do.
Hey Jimmy! Great start on the conversion ;)
Quote from: happycamperbrat on March 21, 2011, 10:45:03 AM
Hey Jimmy! Great start on the conversion ;)
Thanks Teresa.. It's amazing what a few hundred dollars of materials and many, many hours of labor can produce..
Jimmy
It all sounds good so far but I would suggest epoxy primer right off the bat. Your paint is only as good as what's underneath it. Epoxy is the best! I do my Harley's and Hot Rods in it. And a little surface/flash rust is no big deal with it. Seriously. Just don't let it get real bad.
I'd suggest Southern Polyurathane for a good brand and reasonable price.
fwiw, I think if the aluminum is not flat, it will not wrinkle. I used aluminum to close in my rear window, which had a little curve. I think I used .063 believe it or not, and so far it has gone from mid 80's to mid teens and no wrinkles noticed. I know it will get hotter, but that's a 70* swing of temps and so far so good.
Boyce
Quote from: Chaz on March 21, 2011, 01:23:25 PM
It all sounds good so far but I would suggest epoxy primer right off the bat. Your paint is only as good as what's underneath it. Epoxy is the best! I do my Harley's and Hot Rods in it. And a little surface/flash rust is no big deal with it. Seriously. Just don't let it get real bad.
I'd suggest Southern Polyurethane for a good brand and reasonable price.
I want to strongly second this advice. The layer that is next to the metal is that best bonding and rust proofing that you will be able to achieve. Don't scrimp on this "layer" and follow the instructions to the letter. Almost "primers" will be porous and will allow the "paint" to permeate the primer and bond to the metal directly. Given that nature of their mechanical performance it is no wonder that most are really poor at isolating the metal from moisture if used as a single coat. Epoxy base would be the glaring exception, of course. People here rave about rust bullet so it must be great but I wonder if it is used alone without a top coat. Autos have exceedingly high quality paints and it is a common and serious mistake to "sand down to bare metal" and remove that bonded paint layer as it is rarely equaled in rust prevention capability. The 5 layers that were put on top over the years must be sanded down but eave as much of the original a you can.
Flash rust is a bonus as it provides superior bonding. Especially if treated with a converter application prior to painting even with primer but the mfr needs to be consulted in the directions.
John