I drained 40 gallons of old diesel out of the 4103 (that hurt) it was probably about 15 years old. Flushed the tank with a couple of gallons of fresh diesel, undid the fuel line from the bottom of the fuel tank and from the primary filter, lightly blew the fuel line out. I changed both fuel filters, put in 10 gallons of fresh diesel, added fuel to the new filters and cranked her over. Nada nothing, pulled the filters a couple of times added fuel to the primary filter a couple of times, gave her a few shots of WD40 down the intake. I had the air hose from the intake to the air filters off in case I needed to cover the intake in case of a runaway. Still did not hit. A couple of very short shots of starting fluid (I don't like to use it), nothing. By then it was well past dark so stopped til tomorrow. I have read that WD 40 is good (better than starting fluid) to use on a engine that has been sitting.
I suspect air in the system? Tried to start both from the rear and the drivers seat. I was manually working the emergency shut off flap so it was open when I was cranking.
Should it have hit a time or 2 with the WD40 or the starting fluid?
Any advice appreciated!!
Rick
you need pull the valve cover off and make sure no injectors are stuck if one is stuck closed on the 71 with the 2 screw adjustment it won't fire
good luck
Thanks, I am reading past posts on stuck injectors..this could be the problem as I was not getting any smoke at all out of the exhaust and it was cranking over good. Not sure how to tell if an injector is stuck.
Rick
Rick,
That is a very long fuel line to the primary filter and it totally depends on suction from the mechanical pump after the primary filter. This pump will not suck enough fuel that distance to fill the supply line and filter without killing your starter and batts.
So, you need to disconnect the fuel supply line at the tank and pump fuel from there through the line until you have fuel coming out of the top of the primary filter with no air bubbles. There should be a plug on top of the filter mount that can be removed.
You can use a cheap 12v auto fuel pump to do this, all you have to do is fill the line and filter, it only takes five minutes or so.
Your fuel pickup at the tank could easily be clogged, this method will check that out also.
Obviously the secondary filter needs to be filled as well, do this at the filter. I would try this before doing anything with the injectors. You have to have fuel under pressure to the injectors before you can troubleshoot them.
If it sounds as if I've done this, I have. The 4104 system is probably identical to the 4103.
If you get it started and it looses prime we can go to step two.
Starting fluid is good if the fuel lines and injectors are full, but it solves nothing without fuel available at the injectors. You should have a small cup on the top of the air box that is designed for starting fluid, just a small amount and a wait of a minute or so and that works every time. However, I don't recommend you use SF in this mile weather, it is not necessary.
But ...... a shot of ether and not even a wimper? Also 10 gallons of fuel is not enough to keep everything primed.
Both my bus manuals recommend at least ten gallons when prime is lost.
I'll put in 50.00 >:( more dollars worth of diesel tomorrow and try the fuel pump to fill the line... I guess if diesel gets above $5.00 a gallon and it won't start I can always park it out by the pond, put a front porch on it and call it a guest house :D
Thanks!
Rick
:) :) That'll work Rick. Hell if it's got an awning you may have a hard time getting the ole lady back in the house!! :)
I don't think WD-40 is the same anymore and worthless for use as a substitute starting fluid. I don't have any personal experience with it because I use ether. If you are not getting a hit on ether, then you didn't put enough in it.
WD-40 is not your grandpa's WD-40. I think it used to have propane in it. I still laugh remembering watching some idiot spray WD into an electric drill that was squeeling while he pulled the trigger! POOF!!!The dude looked like Elmer Fudd after that!!!! No eyebrows!!!! I pissed my pants laffin!!! ;D ;D
All right guys, I just read over on the Detroit Diesel Site how to fill the system with fuel after you run one out........take a inner tube and cut a plate size piece out with the valve stem in the middle, take the fuel cap off, with a hose clamp clamp the piece of inner tube to the fuel filler neck with the valve in the center, take your air chuck, set the regulator on the compressor to 3 to 5 pounds of pressure and air it up just until the tube swells, as the air pushes the fuel you might have to add more air (said to be careful and not put too much pressure to it) crack a line at the secondary filter to let air out and the air pressure you put in the fuel tank will fill the lines and the filters with fuel.
Be careful not to put too much pressure in the tank as someone over there said you might damage the fuel pump as fuel will not flow past the gears. They say 3 to 5 Lbs, the guy with the inner tube idea said air it up until the tube swells. The way I understand it is you are filling the lines and filters with diesel to the fuel pump, the pump will take it from there
Will try this tomorrow.
Rick
I used a cheap bug sprayer from Lowes to reprime my system after tearing into the engine. I cut the spray nozzle off and jammed the spray hose into the fuel lines. Worked like a dream.
My father lost prime in a diesel car he had when changing filters. Decided to prime by putting an air chuck to the fuel tank without any thought of how much pressure to use. It didn't take much to make the tank go round and increase his fuel capacity by several gallons :o. He had to get a new tank because his now modified tank would drag the ground. I think the inner-tube idea is very creative and wish you much success. Let us know and post some photos if you get a chance.
Now if lost prime is just my only problem...... as luvrbus said in his post I may also have a stuck injector...Cold here today so I will probably not get much done on the bus.
Rick
If it's easy to get to, you can get you a 5 gallon bucket of diesel and drop a line from the tank side of the filter so you know the fuel to the engine is not the issue. Just a way of bypassing the long fuel line from the tank, lot easier to draw from 5 feet away rather than 20feet. Also if the fuel line has the issue you will know. If it doesn't bust off with a few shots of ether there is another problem, that stuff is liquid adrenaline for a diesel.
what did you do with the old fuel. I have heard plenty of stories about people using old old fuel. Maybe run it through a filter and give it a try. $200 is $200 after all.
Well... never mind all that inner tube constructing, though it sounds like an elegant piece of custom equipment...
A rag and your air line will accomplish the same thing, pushing the fuel through to the back, and save the time for fixing the coach.
You want fuel all the way through to the secondary, and beyond. This is not the time for half measures, you have emptied the system, assume there is air in there in all the worst places, and more than you think. You also have not witnessed the coach running, you have to get something assured in this mess of variables, so get the fuel all the way through.
Using a garden sprayer and some brass fittings to connect to an unused port in the incoming side of the primary will let you push fuel through the pump and into the secondary, and then get it to start on the pressurized garden sprayer. You want some signs of life, then take it all apart and get it to run via the fuel tank?
Lots of options! Let us know!
happy coaching!
buswarrior
Zub-Zub - a good fuel treatment would clean up the algee (sp?) , suspend the wax & water plus add some lubricity and probably bring it up to at least a #2 fuel . Just my thoughts
Bill in KS
?
It seems to me that pressurizing your fuel tank will not accomplish the intended result. Pressure will be delivered equally to the fuel supply line - and the fuel return line. The only way this could work would be if you first disconnect the return line and plug its fitting on the tank.
tg
I would be very careful pressurising the tank. The larger the tank, the less pressure it takes to expand it and damage it. My Dad has talked many times about a guy rupturing a large tank for an airplane when he put 2 psi of pressure into it.
You might try a hand vacuum pump on the return line after blocking the flow to the tank so your not sucking air. Once you get fuel through the filters and injectors into the return line, everything upstream should be pretty well purged.
I also wouldnt give upon the old fuel. Filter it, treat it, let it set a while, drain off any water, etc... Different sources make different claims, ive heard everywhere from 3 to 5 years in an above ground storage tank, to more than 25 years below ground. I took fuel out of a Bus that had sat back in the woods at least as long as yours, but through Minnesota winters. It had gunk on the bottom, but the fuel seemed fine and after filtering it, I used it and had no trouble. In another case, I had a fuel oil tank full of heating oil that had sat for years. Was rusty and had water on the bottom. Filtered it and ran it through a VW Rabbit diesel, it ran better than it did on pump fuel.
Rick,
Pay close attention to those posts about pressurizing the fuel tank, that is precarious at best. It takes very little pressure to rupture or grossly swell up a fuel tank.
The pressurized garden sprayer of auto fuel pump is your best bet, it doesn't take much pressure. The engine mechanical fuel pump is only about 26 psi or so.
One advantage to using a pump at the fuel tank is it will also show if there are any leaks in the supply line because it is normally under suction and sucks in air instead of leaking fuel. Any air sucked into the supply line can cause low power problems and hard starting. Been there!
You are a little off on 26 lbs Gus those pumps are 65 to 75 lbs psi
good luck
Thanks folks,
I will forget about putting air to the fuel tank and will get a pump or try just gravity feeding from an auxliary tank with a short piece of hose.
I did notice someone has removed the fuel line from the top of the tank and the bus is drawing fuel from a line/elbow attached to the drain at the bottom of the tank so I will probably be reversing this. Should I be able to move the rocker that operates the injector by hand?
Thanks to all
Rick
Rick, the fuel rod should move freely for those engines that have not been started in years remove the valve cover and use vise grips on the end of the shaft then you can control the engine
good luck
PRIMING A DETROIT DIESEL
First - here's the usual flow of Fuel in buses
A - From the Fuel tank pickup to the "check valve" - The check valve is there to prevent fuel from running back to the tank on shutdown
"check valves can be anywhere between the pickup and the first filter - the usually places are the bulkhead - or at the first filter
B - the first filter in called the "PRIMARY" filter - that will be the one closet "in line" with the fuel tank - now it may not be the one that is physically closest
to the Fuel tank - just look at the lines coming from the fuel tank and follow it to the PRIMARY FILTER - now - there will also be a return fuel line going
back to the fuel tank - if you follow that path that will lead back to the engine and not a filter - so go follow the OTHER fuel line
C - now that you found the "PRIMARY Filter - most will have a THIRD PORT on the filter housing with a plug in it - the plugs are USUALLY 1/4" inch pipe
thread (commonly refered to as 1/4 NPT - national pipe tread) - don't be fooled the 1/4 refers to the APPROXIMATE inside diameter of that pipe - this
is where you would install a 1/4 " pipe thread to BARBED (Lowes / Home depot / Ace) fitting to attach the hose and of the garden sprayer full of fuel
D - from the primary filter - next is the FUEL pump - followed by the (DDEC heat exchanger cooling plate if the engine has Detroit Diesel Electronic Control)
then followed by the SECONDARY fuel filter - to the engine (sometimes left and right side split off (paralell) - other times they run in series.
E - The overflow fuel (fuel not used by the injectors - about 90% is not used) will return back to the fuel tank thru a very important "RESTRICTOR VALVE"
The RESTRICTOR is usually a small inline removable device with about a .070 opening there to help maintain fuel pressure (which is about a low of 15 psi at idle to a regulated (by the fuel pump pressure relief spring) to 50-60 psi at 1200 rpms and above - note the fuel pressure at the input side of the fuel pump and primary filter is about 6" to 12" of vacuum - that is the sucking power of the fuel pump - 6" indicates a clean filter - 12" could indicated a clogged filter.
Fill the filter (primary and secondary ) with fuel - fill the garden sprayer with fuel - remove the spray nozzle from the end of the sprayer hose -
attach the garden sprayer hose to the barbed fitting on the primary filter with a hose clamp and GENTLY pump at least ½ of the garden sprayers fuel into the engine -
IF a DETROIT DIESEL FUEL PUMP BECOMES AIR BOUND (no FUEL IN THE PUMP) THEY WILL NOT SUCK FUEL - this is why you need to push fuel into the primary - thru the pump and into the secondary and up to the engine to do a PROPER job of PRIMING YOUR DETROIT ENGINE
What about having a booster (priming) pump installed at the tank?
Good grief those engines are easy to prime it's not a major deal most of the old engines had a quick coupling on the primary filter to do that and Paul some buses do have a pump in the tank but is called a lift pump and when they go bad no one replaces it they just add a in/line pump
I am suspicious about this fuel pick-up externally from the bottom of the tank.
Has this been a work around for the fuel pick-up being somehow unusable?
I'd be inclined to leave that alone for the moment, let's get it running.
Then, before you fill the tank, you want to put just the smallest amount of air pressure to the fuel pick-up, enough that a crack or pin hole in the pick-up tube will hiss into the tank, but not enough to blow bubbles out the bottom of the pick-up. Someone has to have good ears.
A pick-up that sucks air on a part tank of fuel will make bubbles in the fuel down the back, causing power problems and prime problems.
happy coaching!
buswarrior
Primed the system with a garden hand pump plumbed into the primary filter, still no hit, took the valve cover off, the injector control tube does not move or rotate, I took out the pins out and disconnected the rods at each end of the tube, it still does not rotate, sound like stuck injectors?
When the engine is cranking the rocker arms are not touching the top of the injectors...
If injectors are stuck is the next step replacing the injectors?
Thanks,
Rick
Pull the injectors and soak in acetone on lacquer thinner it may save you some money
good luck
I read somewhere and cannot find it now that on the 4103's the rack will stay in the no fuel position until you press the fuel pedal? I did this several times but it did not seem too do anything. The only thing I see connected to the injector control tube that would prevent it from turning other than a stuck injector is the shut off rod at the right end and the governer rod at the other end of the tube. I have disconnected both of these rods.
Dallas?? Anyone heard from Dallas?
Go find him over on BNO.
The rack isn't in the shut off position, is it?
happy coaching!
buswarrior
If you have one injector stuck in the no fuel position with the old style fuel rod they are all closed, that is same with one stuck open that is why the oldies have emergency shut down
Kind of like the old Christmas tree lights!! ;)
Quote from: Rick59-4104 on March 06, 2011, 02:42:49 PM
. . . When the engine is cranking the rocker arms are not touching the top of the injectors...
Ouch! That's bad.
Hopefully it's an issue of gum and not rust. In addition to the luvrbus soak treatment you could try carb cleaner.
On future starting attempts, be sure to have a 100% positive stop plate ready to immediately choke this engine, in case of runaway. Even "gagged" it could carry on for some time, and you won't be able to stand the eye-burning smoke for long, so it'd also be good to be ready-N-able to quickly cut the fuel supply too.
---
My personal experience only. New W_D 40 will not start and engine as the propellant( which was propane) has been changed to something else so paint sniffers won't use it.
Big John
Cliff,
You're right, I was thinking of my Dodge Cummins pickup which is 26 lbs.
Rick,
I'm pretty sure the 4103 and 4104 are the same, when it is shut off and air goes down the rack is in the run position.
I had some stuck injectors in a 2cyl. detroit what i did was use a socket where the rocker rides and give it a smack to jar the plunger loose then it worked to make sure the motor was worth putting new injectors in. i would say they are stuck so you will need to do some thing to get them loose or replace. just an idea. that worked for me. if you try don't hit it full blow right off the get go mine i didn't have to hit real hard for them to brake loose
Yes, I would like to get the injectors unstuck and see if the engine is worth sinking any money into without putting new injectors in....underneath the valve cover everything looks good, no rust or built up deposits so I think they or some are just stuck. Might take a piece of hardwood or a brass rod and lightly tap on the tops of the injectors?? Is this something I should or should not do?
Rick
I have a couple of sticky injectors and Don Fairchild advised hooking a pump up to the fuel rails in the head and pumping paint thinner through. I wouldn't even consider cranking that engine until the injectors are all free and the racks are all moving evenly. The book says that the governor puts the injectors in the full fuel position when the engine is stopped. It goes to idle fuel when it starts and gets up to around 500 rpm, and goes to no fuel to stop or on overrun.
Worst case pull all the injectors and put rebuilt ones in. One sticky injector can lock them all in full fuel and cause the run-away.
Brian
Depends on what governor and shut down he has Brian he working on 6L probably has the shut down up front on the head mounted to head and fuel rod not on the governor and FWIW only the old 2 screw fuel rod will let the engine run away you will not have that problem with the single screw spring loaded rod
good luck
Lots of good discussion here. But a basic diagnostic tool in a case like this for me is Ether. It should fire with ether, shouldn't it? We've started many a two stroke and four stroke diesel that had fuel problems using ether. Obviously you don't want to run it for any amount of time but a good shot of ether with a good starter and properly functioning valves should start it. Then diagnose your fuel problem. This engine sounds to me like its got something else going on?? Compression + ether should = revolutions.
Fred
Fred is right, it should start with a small shot of starting fluid, the air intake system is completely separated from the fuel system.
I presume the 4103 has the small ether cup on top of the air box, a very small squirt into the cup will make it at least start unless something really major is wrong.
One of the worst things that can happen in a trouble shooting exercise is to get some test result wrong. You are making mistakes from that fork in the road onward. In this case it is that a DD will run on ONLY either. Now I think it should and that makes sense to me BUT people here say that either only works if there is fuel getting to the engine so there is at least some fuel and either in the cylinder. I guess that would limit its usefulness to conditions like a restrictive filter, low fuel pressure, cold block....but at least some fuel getting thru. I don't know but I think you should determine if this lie is true.
Good luck,
John
I always opted to use copious amts of either and run it on the either while spraying the stuff in the intake but RW says I am lucky to have not killed myself. Ha, I out smarted the Universe again. Or was it....? Be careful. You know, don't try this at home.
Quotepeople here say that either only works if there is fuel getting to the engine so there is at least some fuel and either in the cylinder.
I have let that one pass several times to avoid arguments and making someone else wrong. With that being said, I can demonstrate that ether works very well by itself.
Don't hold back next time ;D ;D ;D
John the friendly
Quote from: Barn Owl on March 08, 2011, 07:30:26 PM
Quotepeople here say that either only works if there is fuel getting to the engine so there is at least some fuel and either in the cylinder.
I have let that one pass several times to avoid arguments and making someone else wrong. With that being said, I can demonstrate that ether works very well by itself.
Barn Owl,
I'm curious how you'd demonstrate the ether-only engine fuel? Although I'm of the opinion that it's not workable, I would be more than open minded to other views.
---
I tried starting fluid about 4 short blasts 2 or 3 different times directly in the air intake while cranking the engine over (removed the hose from the air filters) while making sure the emergency shut off was open....It did not even hit nor did I get any smoke at all out of the exhaust... It did make a slight knocking sound when I put the starting fluid to it., same sound I have heard when using starting fluid on tractors...but did not try to fire.
The injectors are in the down position, Paul and I talked today and he suggested that the first time I cranked it with the valve cover on the injectors were pushed down and stayed down due to some crud in them. This makes logic to me.
I sent Dallas an e-mail about my problem, he said he would call in a day or so...
Rick
Rick,
I'll try and call today.
Dallas
Quote from: Rick59-4104 on March 09, 2011, 02:19:39 AM
I tried starting fluid about 4 short blasts 2 or 3 different times directly in the air intake while cranking the engine over (removed the hose from the air filters) while making sure the emergency shut off was open....It did not even hit nor did I get any smoke at all out of the exhaust... It did make a slight knocking sound when I put the starting fluid to it., same sound I have heard when using starting fluid on tractors...but did not try to fire.
The injectors are in the down position, Paul and I talked today and he suggested that the first time I cranked it with the valve cover on the injectors were pushed down and stayed down due to some crud in them. This makes logic to me.
I sent Dallas an e-mail about my problem, he said he would call in a day or so...
Rick
The auto ignition temperature of Ether is 338 dgrees F, #2 fuel oil is about 500F. On paper you would think the Ether would go off well before diesel, but perhaps the Ether is drawing away more heat through evaporation. If the low limit temp for starting is 40 to 50F, even though its not hot enough to ignite fuel oil, its still hot enough to smoke, ive seen em smoke at much colder temps and not even knock. Maybe thats enough to light off the Ether, and maybe without any fuel its just not getting hot enough for Ether alone.
Also, on an engine thats sat a really long time, its very probable the rings are gummed up and not sealing like they would with clean fresh oil on them. This is a good candidate for Marvel Mystery Oil IMHO. You need to pull the injectors anyway to free them up. While theyre out, pour a couple tablespoons of MMO down each injector hole, crank the engine through by hand a few times, and leave it sit a day or two while you play with the injectors. You wont need any Ether when you get it back together, the MMO should light it up by itself if the engine has any compression.
I'm sure others more knowledgeable than I will comment but I suggest that if you pull the injectors, be very careful to keep track of them and return then to the same hole.
Quote from: Len Silva on March 09, 2011, 08:53:23 AM
I'm sure others more knowledgeable than I will comment but I suggest that if you pull the injectors, be very careful to keep track of them and return then to the same hole.
Why? They don't interface with anything...do they. Not like a valve with the seat and guide. Rocker arm contact point?
Thanks,
John
I was just told by a very knowledgeable person if a 671 valves are out of adjustment = no compression = no hit even with starting fluid. Makes sense to me ;)
Rick
If it ran going in there the valves can't get out of adjustment just from sitting.
Yes mal adjusted valves will prevent it from starting. What else did the mech. that did that touch? Hopefully, not the brakes.
John
The guy was a wrench turner, how good I don't know. I'm thinking he did some tinkering after he got the bus home, hard to say but I am hoping this is the problem along with Injectors... I will give him a call and see if he can remember if anyone "adjusted" the valves. Will be a couple of weeks before I can get back on it, have a show in Amarillo Texas next weekend to get ready for.
Rick
To cause a no-start, the valves would have to be adjusted so tight that they aren't seating.
If so, the engine would roll very easy and "wheeze" compression through the exhaust.
Within range of the adjusting screw, I don't think the valves can be set so loose as to cause a no-start.
As long as there is at least a bit of play at the bridge, or probably rocker if the original 2-valve head, indicating that the valve(s) can seat while the cam is "low" that's enough of an adjustment for a test run.
---
After talking to Rick today, it seems that there is between 1/4 and 3/8" play between the top of the injector and the rocker. It could be that they are all frozen in the down position, but not likely. I think it's more likely the rockers have been loosened s much they can't make the injector pop.
Since the rack is stuck, even with the fuel shut off solenoid rod and governor rod disconnected, there is either at least one injector that has a frozen rack or the rod itself has rusted in place. PRobably a stuck injector.
Rick is going to perform some localized testing to see what is holding the rack closed when he gets a chance.
The exhaust valve rockers seem to be so tight (little or no lateral or vertical movement when the valve is at the low spot on the cam lobe), that they aren't allowing the valves to close, hence, no compression, or not enough to allow firing of the engine.
There is also no air line to the fuel shut off solenoid...... this all leads me to believe that there is a problem that can be cured with a set of injectors, or at least soaking the existing injectors in paint thinner and pumping paint thinner through the lines.
We shall see.
Just an idea, I have bought construction equipment that someone had purposely mis- adjusted things for the reason that no one else could move or use the piece. I went through weeks of this after buying a yard full of stuff from a guy that had money problems before he died. The kind of stuff that normal thinking would never figure out. Think out of the box - good luck.
Quote from: Rick59-4104 on March 07, 2011, 11:58:19 PM
Yes, I would like to get the injectors unstuck and see if the engine is worth sinking any money into without putting new injectors in....underneath the valve cover everything looks good, no rust or built up deposits so I think they or some are just stuck. Might take a piece of hardwood or a brass rod and lightly tap on the tops of the injectors?? Is this something I should or should not do?
Rick
you need to make sure your close to center on the injector top is the main thing my two cyl looked good under the valve cover also
QuoteI'm curious how you'd demonstrate the ether-only engine fuel? Although I'm of the opinion that it's not workable, I would be more than open minded to other views.
OK, most recent use was on a Honda XR80 that I bought. The carburetor was in a box and I needed to know if it had any chance to run. Sprayed a shot of ether and ran. I know that is a gas engine so I had to dig deeper to confirm the diesel engine will run on it. For starters grew up on a farm and I worked for an excavating company in my early twenties where both places I was exposed to, and was taught, to use ether to solve a multitude of problems. One of those was lost prime etc. But I have never been schooled in diesel mechanics so I talked to six of the diesel mechanics where I work and asked them if diesels will run on ether alone. All said yes and many had quite a few stories to support it. I say if it burns by a match then it can be fuel for something. One mechanic did say that the new Cummins trucks will not hit on ether alone and didn't know why, but thought it might ignite to far before TDC and cause it to lock. I have personally never used it on an engine that didn't have fuel in it at one time or another, be it gas or diesel. If you can point me to a link or something I would like to know more about the mechanics of how ether works. The more I know the better I can use it. I only have what I have experienced or have been told.
Quote from: Rick59-4104 on March 09, 2011, 02:19:39 AM
I tried starting fluid about 4 short blasts 2 or 3 different times directly in the air intake while cranking the engine over (removed the hose from the air filters) while making sure the emergency shut off was open....It did not even hit nor did I get any smoke at all out of the exhaust... It did make a slight knocking sound when I put the starting fluid to it., same sound I have heard when using starting fluid on tractors...but did not try to fire.
The injectors are in the down position, Paul and I talked today and he suggested that the first time I cranked it with the valve cover on the injectors were pushed down and stayed down due to some crud in them. This makes logic to me.
I sent Dallas an e-mail about my problem, he said he would call in a day or so...
Rick
I'm not sure what you mean by "air intake" but ether on my 6-71 is injected into a bolt hole 9you remove the bolt and spray) Shooting ether into the air intake (before the filters?) is a little too far away to be effective for starting or diagnoses.
zub,
That bolt hole should be in the top of the 671 air box. It originally had a small cup into which was inserted a plastic capsule of ether, when the lid was closed a sharp point inside the cup punctured the capsule and the ether was discharged.
According to the driver's manual he was then to stroll casually back to his seat and hit the starter switch. Some small delay is important. I've tried it immediately after spraying the ether and it doesn't work as well as after the small delay.
This system requires only a tiny bit of ether. I would guess, I haven't tried it, that spraying into the air intake takes quite a bit more ether, especially if it has to go through the air filter.
Even on my small generator engine there is quite a delay after ether is sprayed into the air filter before it fires.
Update on starting the 1952 4103,
After a couple of months of being too darn busy in the spur shop to look up I took a couple of days off and pulled the injectors, all 6 were stuck a lot of WD-40 and PB Blaster and several hours of working them back and forth they were free, just installed them, bled the fuel lines and I have a running 671......Nothing like it!!
Off to town for more diesel :( some antifreeze, oil and filters and hope to take her on a short run down the road in a day or so if brakes check out and she builds air and I can shut her down from the cockpit.
Found some receipts from the previous owners trip from Tulsa to NW Arkansas looks like a little over 20 years since she ran last.
Just wanted to thank all who helped and post the reason she did not start on my previous attempt. Maybe this thread will help someone down the road...
Bought a set of 671 tune up tools on e-bay a week or so ago so will try and give her a tune up, I have a local former DD mechanic to help me run the rack and the best thing is he works for cold beer. I went to high school with the guy and I knew he used to have a truck repair shop but just found out a couple of weeks ago he worked on a lot of Detroits over the years.
Life is good...
Rick
Quote from: Rick59-4104 on July 01, 2011, 10:12:13 AM
Update on starting the 1952 4103,
That is awesome news Rick. After I get back I'll have to make plans to come see it. Maybe I'll drive mine over, lol.