mc9 RV ceiling padding (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTw9lMIlgq8#ws)
Cool way to handle the curve on the roof of the bus.
Melbo
That is a very good way to do that! you won't get any warpage and it's very strong.
Thanks for the video!
Mike, you have every mans dream wood shop :o
Gary
I commend you on your skills and your wood shop! Very Nice, but I would like to recommend one thing. If that's your bus your working on, ditch the pink panther insulation! If you get a leak of any kind, including condensation, that stuff will ruin any ceiling you put up including the sub ceiling! It would be a shame to have such good skills ruined due to insulation!
;D Nice work! Just a couple questions though.... What kind of screws are you using? Are you planning on insulating the heads of the screws to help with transfere of condensation or heat/cold? And I am assuming you pre-drilled the steel ribs...... As for the pink stuff, yaeh...... all the pros say not to use that stuff in a bus :-\
Im also curious what kind of fasteners to use to attach wall and cieling panels. I read something somewhere about filling the steel tubing with expanding foam insulation to keep them from sweating inside, transfering heat and rusting internally.
It sounds good on paper, but does anyone have any further thoughts on it, pro or con?
I would be concerned those radius corners would flex, but im not sure.
QuoteIf that's your bus your working on, ditch the pink panther insulation!
Yes I am going to replace it with Pink Board.
QuoteWhat kind of screws are you using? Are you planning on insulating the heads of the screws to help with transfere of condensation or heat/cold? And I am assuming you pre-drilled the steel ribs
I have been experimenting with different types, some have a counter sunk head and others are a flat head with a hex drive. I like the counter sunk the best, but I think a square drive would would be the best. The screws themselves are just zink plated steel, but regardless of the head type they all are driven so the head is flush with the plywood. I am planing on using a sub ceiling to insulate the screw heads from the finished ceiling. And yes I pre drill the steel frame, usually I drill the hole for the screws first, and then drill a second, but larger hole into the wood, the larger hole will help the screw pull the wood tightly to the steel frame.
QuoteIm also curious what kind of fasteners to use to attach wall and cieling panels. I read something somewhere about filling the steel tubing with expanding foam insulation to keep them from sweating inside, transfering heat and rusting internally.
I haven't decided what I am going to use for attaching the finished ceiling yet. Guess it will depend on what I end up using for the finished ceiling. I think the expanding foam inside the steel frame is a good idea and plane on using it, that is a lot of uninsulated area when you add it all up.
Thanks everyone for you comments and suggestions, I have never converted a bus before, so I really appreciate any experienced suggestions I can get. I hope I can answer any questions, if I cant maybe someone reading can.