Looking for a new head. It has to be a low profil model. I was looking at one it the camping world mag. it is a Aqua-Magic stye plus cost around 190.00. What is everone else using, style. make and est. I would like to go with a china this time, Iam replacing a plastic one. I looked at Ron's Web but he does not show the size I need. Low profile 12" in height.
May I ask why you wish to use such a low WC? Doubt that CampingWorld sells anything that's not decent quality.
In answer to your question, I have a "Bravura" installed. It has worked flawlessly. As one that usually has a group of musicians around...drinking adult beverages, the potty has been proven durable! We test the best! ;)
Cheers, JR
I have a Sealand Traveler 510+ with china bowl. it's not low profile. It is actually about the same size as a residential toilet. Nice toilet and not terribly expensive.
Ross
I put Sealland Traveler in 2 buses. This last one I put Thedford. Wish I had put Sealand!
I also have a sealand china toilet ,I was worried the plastic ones might break ...I'm 280lbs ;D.The sealand has worked perfectly so far.
I go with Tim on this one. The sealand stands up to the big man test.
Devin
I think I gave 150+/- at RV surplus in Elkhart for mine.
Where is a good place to buy the sea and land.
www.ardemco.com
www.Ronthebusnut.com
I used the Thetford, Aria toilet. I am very very pleased with it. China, looks great, works better than my home toilet, few issues with skid marks. Pricey. bought it from Kearbey RV. EVen if you don't buy the thetford, stilll a fast inexpensive place to buy toilets or other RV things. Free shipping on some stuff. http://kearbey.homestead.com/
If skid marks do become an issue there is always the trick of spraying it with Pam, once and a while before use.
Sealand China directly over tank, low for me and i dont think iwould want it lower and i think it is adjustable height, I open the valve as I sh :o purge ::) so it goes right in. make sure you leave room around it to reach around and wipe. Installed a sink shower nozzle on the supply line for rinsing or washing skidmarks.
are we talkin sh crap or what ??? :D
8)
I have the Sealand Traveler 510 china bowl with standard sized toilet seat. I weigh almost 300lb and supports me fine. The only complaint is that the bowl isn't as steep as I'd like and sometimes have to do break up the bricks before it'll go down (big boy makes big s---). What's nice is that you can get designer colors-mine is platinum (light gray). Also, it is the same toilet as the vacu flush, with the addition of the insert in the throat. But- there is nothing more reliable than gravity. My black tank is on center line running fore and aft with a 3ft horizontal pipe from the toilet to the tank. It works everytime with no problems. So I have proof that you don't have to have the tank directly under the toilet for proper operation. I ordered mine through Camping World. Good Luck, TomC
What is the difference between:
the Sealland Traveler and the Aqua-Magic stye plus?
They are both the same price.
I like how the Sealland you can raise the foot petal to add water. Can you do this with the aqua-magic?
I guess my question is what features do each of these have or what features is one lacking?
Thanks...
I recently got a Sealand on Ebay for around $130.
What model? the 500 series?
Quote from: Ross on September 05, 2006, 06:46:02 PM
I have a Sealand Traveler 510+ with china bowl. it's not low profile. It is actually about the same size as a residential toilet. Nice toilet and not terribly expensive.
Ross
What is the difference between the 500 and 510+ series? Is the 510+ just taller? If so sounds nice...
The Thetford toilets with foot pedal will add water if you step down only part way.
For anyone who wants to go high class with the Thetford Aria, PPL Motorhomes has the best prices I could find.
I started with a cheap plastic in my S&S, When I did the bus I put in a Sealand and I thought what luxury, this is the way to go. Later I used my friends Aqua magic style plus, I put the Aqua Magic in my bus!!
The important dimension in an RV toilet is the distance from the waterline to the family jewels!! With the Sealand I had to be cautious or Mr Happy could go for a dip, this is not a problem with the Aqua Magic.
Also and this is subjective and my opinion but I find the finish is superior on the Aqua Magic, I belive it is eaiser to keep clean.
HTH Jim
*** With the Sealand I had to be cautious or Mr Happy could go for a dip ***
LMAO - Are you just braggin now :D
I have the Microphor in my bus has no foot pedal,cables or gears to brake and does not have to be mounted directly over the tank and uses 1 or 2 quarts of water depending on the model good luck
Quote from: luvrbus on December 28, 2008, 03:19:52 PM
I have the Microphor in my bus has no foot pedal,cables or gears to brake and does not have to be mounted directly over the tank and uses 1 or 2 quarts of water depending on the model good luck
I have heard good things about the Microphor toilets. How much is the whole setup? Is this the toilet that needs 12V or 24V and has a controller? Sounds complicated.
Sounds like the Aqua Magic style plus is the one for me. I want to keep Mr. Happy dry and happy.
Best place to find sealand china toilets is at Bontragers, they had a bunch of pallets of them discounted to sell. I didn't ask how much but they normally sell for less than half price and often a fraction of the lowest price you can find in other places, I have no connection with them other than that they are my favorite shopping mall lol and good people too lol.
I have the Thetford Aqua magic V in the old style. No Mr. Happy problems EVER and a cheap, dependable and easily repaired toilet. Mine was made in 74 so go figure the cost per mile or seating.
I would only sink more money in this feature IF I did not have a straight drop into the black tank...or near straight. The microphore will pump the stuff anyplace you want to place the black tank and I think the location can be above the toilet. If you don't need that you should stay simple and cheap. Macirators are a cruel joke except in the Microph system as I think the plumbing for that bad girl is nly 1.5 inches..
Make certain that you design in two vents for the black and gray tanks and a vent at each sink. Disgusting, intolerable conditions await those that deviate from this design criteria. Vents need to go pretty much straight up to the roof.
HTH,
John
Quote from: JohnEd on December 30, 2008, 11:42:01 AM
I have the Thetford Aqua magic V in the old style. No Mr. Happy problems EVER and a cheap, dependable and easily repaired toilet. Mine was made in 74 so go figure the cost per mile or seating.
Make certain that you design in two vents for the black and gray tanks and a vent at each sink. Disgusting, intolerable conditions await those that deviate from this design criteria. Vents need to go pretty much straight up to the roof.
John
As an alternative to punching multiple holes in the roof, I used "Studa" (interior check valves) valves at the sinks. 7 years and no issues...or odors.
One roof vent t'eed into both black and grey water holding tanks is suitable. An RV style vent cap will make for a water tight seal even in a curved roof area.
I'm also using an Aqua Magic pot. It is offset by about 2' from the black water tank. Never had any problems at all with the setup. When assembling the 3" drain pipe, the edges were radiused for 'improved' flow. Not sure it was neccessary, but what the h..
I would guess that the noise associated with macerators would be intrusive for some? Not really familiar with the newer units...but was a little too familiar with marine units.
JR
I used the same setup as JR with the vents and never had any problems either, We also used the aqua magic china and love it very easy to keep clean.
JR, Jim
"I used "Studa" (interior check valves) valves at the sinks."
Ya'll have any info on these
Did y'all use these instead of traps?, or put them in after the traps?
Interesting, learn something every day :)
I believe they are also referred to as studer or studor vents. I used them in my home when I remodeled the kitchen. You Must still use a P trap and the vent must be at least 3 inches above the P trap.
Now as far as the
black/grey vent having to go thru the roof, I would have to dissagree! My vent exits the upper side of my combo tank, goes upward to just above the tank and returns back downward thru the floor. Once thru the bay floor, it turns and goes rearward for about 4 inches. I have had no problems with drains or most importantly, no smells EVER!
Ace
104,
Don't understand why you want a low toilet?
Take my word for it, as you get older you will want it even higher. Even if you aren't old like me it is much easier to mount and dismount a higher seat.
I have seen RVs with a raised platform under the toilet so a high profile toilet would be too high. Perhaps the OP has something similiar in his bus to raise up a low profile toilet.
I sure can't argue with "actual" experience and don't want to. I had a young engineer working for me that shared one day that he thought experience was the most OVER RATED commodity in the world. I knew he was destined to fail and it only took him six months. NOTHING and I mean NOTHING succeeds like success.
That said: I think the double vent out of the black is some kind of spec. That advice about minimizing the penetrations through the roof is out of Da Book, as well. When good advice contradicts you gotta make an informed decision. That 74 Winnie has a roof that looks like a vent farm and I know they had solid motives even back then and the :science" of handling Poo and drain water hasn't evolved all that much. My advice is "no matter how many got away with cutting corners, go with the spec." And I am not saying anything any of you have done is cutting a corner. At the construction phase I would do some research and find out what the opt spec is and try to follow that. If it became an issue I would be thanking the spirits of buses gone by for the knowledge that I stand a pretty good chance of doing it your way. What is the authority in matters plumbing a RV and what does it say? Anybody have that book and is willing to share?
Thanks all,
John
Our tanks vent thru the bay floor too, works just fine for us.
If you are considering a residential type toilet you might want to look at the pressure assisted types.
http://www.flushmate.com/
No upper tank to splash around and less water use (1 gallon per flush).
Hi Guy's,
Just so you know, busnut104 started this thread back in sept. of 2006.
Someone braught it up to current status by posting in the thread.
Happy New Year!
Nick-
busnut104
Jr. Member
Offline
Posts: 94
Toilet
« on: September 05, 2006, 07:47:33 PM
Can we ever discuss pooper comfort enough? Expiring minds want to know lol.
Quote from: Nick Badame Refrig. Co. on December 31, 2008, 08:26:44 AM
Hi Guy's,
Just so you know, busnut104 started this thread back in sept. of 2006.
Someone braught it up to current status by posting in the thread.
Happy New Year!
Nick-
So Nick are you trying to say we are still talking about old CRAP? ??? BK ???
Quote from: Busted Knuckle on December 31, 2008, 09:47:22 AM
Quote from: Nick Badame Refrig. Co. on December 31, 2008, 08:26:44 AM
Hi Guy's,
Just so you know, busnut104 started this thread back in sept. of 2006.
Someone braught it up to current status by posting in the thread.
Happy New Year!
Nick-
So Nick are you trying to say we are still talking about old CRAP? ??? BK ???
Yes & Yes...lol
Nick-
My vent is exactly the same as Ace's except it doesn't curve back at the end, it is straight down.
In fact, I think I got the idea from him a couple of years ago.
thanks, Ace.
Ahh what do you know? I'm good for something! ;)
Ace
Quote from: gus on December 31, 2008, 12:19:21 PM
My vent is exactly the same as Ace's except it doesn't curve back at the end, it is straight down.
Taken out of context-enough said LOL :D Sorry Gus
I looked through all of the posts and didn't see a comment about
Valterra's tiolet. They look good but the valves go out very quickly,
we replaced an ancient Thetford Aqua magic in our 4104 two years
ago a Valterra. It failed. valve wise, we placed the valve and it lasted
about four months, we now have an Aqua Magic. We replaced a low end
Thetford in our fifth wheel and were well satisfied. Caveat Emptor!
Blessings,
David
PD4104-2977
Winton, CA
Quote from: Len Silva on December 31, 2008, 06:58:43 AM
If you are considering a residential type toilet you might want to look at the pressure assisted types.
http://www.flushmate.com/
No upper tank to splash around and less water use (1 gallon per flush).
However, they need a reliable, continuous full-pressure water feed. I looked at the idea and discarded it after thinking about the RV campgrounds I've been in this last few months.
I'm going (so to speak) with a dual-flush residential toilet, 1.6 or .8 gallons per flush, with a cable-operated drain valve to isolate the toilet from the black tank while driving (if left open, the S trap would slosh dry and let in the smell).
The important thing when using a residential toilet is to have a BIG black tank with a level alarm, so that you empty it before it's full. If you don't, one flush too many would lead to a story your campground neighbors will tell for years to come!
Quote from: Blacksheep on December 30, 2008, 08:19:24 PM
I believe they are also referred to as studer or studor vents.
They are called "Air Admittance Valves" in the International Plumbing Code, and are made by Studor (www.studor.com) and other companies. They are seen as a shortcut, not as good as a roof vent, and because they are mechanical they can fail, letting sewer gas into the house.
They are acceptable "when installed in accordance with section 917 of the 2003 Plumbing Code and/or 2003 IRC; section P 3114."
They are intended as branch vents ONLY, even with residential systems, and with our coaches we MUST have a 2-way vent from the tanks. Remember, when you put water into the tank, you have to let the air go somewhere, or it will build pressure.
The reason they have to be above the P trap is so they will always be above the water level. For coaches, this means that you MUST have level alarms in the tanks, or put them higher than the sinks and toilet, so you will never keep putting water in while it's leaking out the AAV. You might consider mounting the AAV on the countertop (just use PEX from the vent hole in the tank). That way you will see the water stop draining long before you would get to the AAV.
In addition to the bottom waste tank vent I also have the "interior check valves" on drains thanks to the PO, so, I have no roof vents except the fridge.
No problems of any kind so far.
BG6,
Well said. Nice to see those numbers for reference.
Thanks,
John