Anyone know where I can get the glass for a '53 Flxible Visicoach? My windscreens are as old as the bus... which means they're showing their age... My poor coach looks like it's wearing white-rimmed glasses! o.O
-Mac
check with Marvin Carter 405 seven six nine 4216, he may have some left from Aussie imports. worked for me ... he might have headed south by now, might not answer soon
also remembered another possibility I found, RV Glass Solutions (http://www.rvglassexperts.com/) claimed to be able to supply them awhile back
Bill
Thanks. :) I'll give him a call...
-Mac
Try Coach Glass in Eugene, OR. They used to carry some Flix glass.
just my 2 cents but why don't you keep the glass project until last [if they are watertight] and work on the insides,as the bus will run without new windows. i would be working on a re power to a nice diesel engine and getting tanks and living accommodations squared away then install the glass. just my 2 cents...
Good point Dezi but...... when you are working on an older bus, even stuff that may be available today, may not be there in two years.
I would say shop now for windshields and get them if you find a good deal. I would not install them until you were ready to roll.
very good point.... i just kno i have done things like buy batteries and floor and sheets and blankets for my 34 foot airstream and they all went to waste as i never even got it out of my yard and had to sell her at a great loss.
Oh, I'm working on the repower first, of course.... but... The glass leaks and is impossible to see through at night. And, as was said... Old coach parts are damn hard to find, so if I can find a good deal on glass soon, then I'll have to take it (once I have the $ in my pocket to do so, of course)...
The primary reason for looking for the glass now though, is that I know it's hard to find... And the glass that's in it is toast. The seals are shot and it leaks badly... The upper end of the cab is pretty rusted as a result, which will require some sheet metal work before I can put new glass in. For the time being, I'm going to seal it all up with some plumber's putty or something, just to keep the water out. If it still leaks, then I'll go with the dreaded silicone... But since I'm not planning a paint job any time soon (kindof pointless with all the thru-hole rust), I'm not concerned with the difficulty in removing it later. I'll eventually pull body panels entirely, ban them back out into shape and clean 'em up before putting them back on... but that's a whole different aspect of the project that really isn't even on my mind right now.
My priorities are... Power plant (to make her drivable again), front glass (so I can see), and then arresting the rust action that's going on... Everything else after that. :)
The engine that's in her now is just... unusuable. Much of my 1100 mile trip back was spent doing between 30 and 40mph... 60 to 65 on a slight downhill grade, and crawling at 20 on slight uphill grades... Just not something I want to repeat! The poor old engine is just too tired out. I'm hoping that the guy I located earlier in the year still has the parts I need to do the repower... I'll call him once I have the $$ in hand. If he doesn't, then I'll start looking elsewhere for the parts.
-Mac
Mac.
Metal foil duct tape is fantastic as a temporary seal. It lasts a very long time, even out in the weather.
Mac - except for the fact my windshield surround was pretty solid, you're into some of the same metal work I spent the last 3 summers on - my log (http://mars.ark.com/~red58/sitemap.html), for whatever help it may be, and at the bottom of that page links to other picture albums
Bill
Len, that's a good idea... but the rot condition my bus is currently in calls for something with some fluid qualities... The tape would be useful in some areas... But putty or silicone would definitely be required for others... Thanks for the suggestion, It'll get used... Probably for more than just sealing leaks. ;)
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Wow, Bill... I'm impressed... And a bit envious... :) Your li'l girl looks GREAT! Though, I do think you faired better in the rot department... There isn't a single lower panel on mine that won't require new metal. The bottom skirt all the way around is practically gone, held together with thin wisps of metal that hasn't rotted away... But that roof raise yours has... All I can say is NICE, and at the same time YIKES! Lol! It looks to have been a real pain in the rear end to have worked around and modify things... The fellow that did it originally took on a huge project, to be sure... It's too bad he only half-assed it and warped so much of it where the lower end meets the body... Looks like you took care of those problems though. :)
I've added your project to my Projects link section on my blog... Since I'm not doing anything with my bus right now, I don't have anything really to write about... so, my blog is currently about pretty much anything else until I can get started.
I was curious what it looked like under the skin up front... With your pics... now I know. When I get working on mine, I may just have to put some additional reinforcement up front to make a better cage for the driver's area... For a bus, these old gal's seem to be pretty flimsy in that area. I might have to do some re-engineering to make it a bit stronger.
I'm 6'0" tall... The inside of my bus seems to be about 5'10" from floor to centerline... I've been mulling over a roof raise, but honestly... I just didn't want to spoil the classic design and look of her... After seeing yours with one already done, I have some ideas of how I can do it and still retain the original look. I'll photoshop something up when I get around to it and post the pics. Who knows, maybe I'll get around to doing a complete digital design of mine before I even get a rivet drilled.
Anyway, thanks for the link! You've done some great work on your coach... Hopefully mine, when done, will look half as good. :)
-Mac