Well, the deal is half done - I saw the engine, paid for it, and next week I will go back and pick it up. It sure looks like a brand new engine, the paint is still on the exhaust manifolds, there is no overspray on wiring and such like you get with a rebuilt. I pulled the valve covers and the heads look like they came out of the machine shop yesterday. It has N80 injectors, and the seller had the engine number reviewed by the local detroit shop, they said it was set to 350 hp. It is an 8V71T industrial engine.
The governor has these markings: DW-LS, 3-80, 892 1497 is the serial number I think, and under that is 500 - 800. I think that means it's a dual weight, limiting speed governor.
It has something I have never heard of before - an "exciter ignition" which looks for all the world like a coil, it has a low voltage spec and a high voltage spec around 18,000 volts, it is from Livingston Industries. Any idea what that is for?
Thanks, Brian
That is for the heater inside the block that will need to be removed pretty standard on military engines can you give a turbo number from that engine sounds like a military engine
I am not home and have no way of checking the serial number
good luck
the coil in question;is it like a glow plug or pre heat to help start engine in cold weather?..good find. Bob
I went and got my new engine today, brought it home in my 2500 Dodge Ram. It squatted down pretty good, but not on the bump stops and the truck rode and handled the weight fine - the payload on the truck is supposedly 3,000 lbs for that model.
The numbers on the turbo are 5103294, which I would think is the serial number, and the part number looks like LA0134. The governor is a DW-LS, which is what is on truck engines anyway, it has the speed lever and the stop lever. It has N80 injectors.
Brian
Looks military rebuild to me Brian notice no paint where the starter was, let Donald tell you what has to be changed on that one,fwiw a 350 industrial 8v71 T should have N75's injectors for 350 hp and N70's for 335 hp I think that is going to be a little more than 350 hp with that turbo number and N80's injectors you have your work cut out for you
good luck
Wow! To me that looks like the perfect turbo setup for your 5'r. It looks like it has the larger oil cooler to facilitate also cooling an automatic-but that engine is too powerful for the MT644, and the HT740 is too long-so you're sort of stuck with a manual transmission. With N80, it should put out 370hp and 1150lb/ft torque. Detroits last version of the 8V-71TA also had 80 injectors and put out 400hp and 1200lb/ft torque-but there's were the extra horsepower comes from-the aftercooler. I think this engine will work well for you. Good Luck, TomC
Seeing it in the good light I also agree that it's a rebuild, but I hope a good one. Everything I look at looks new, and perfect. The shipping cradle it's mounted in is a high quality piece as well. I was wondering about the large oil cooler - is that something I should consider keeping? It covers up the area where the oil filter is on my engine. I agree, lots of work to do.
Brian
Quote from: bevans6 on November 15, 2010, 04:18:35 AM
. . . ., lots of work to do.
Brian
The way I see it is that if you're adding to the performance because you want to & have a choice - it is fun. ;D
If it's broke & you have no choice but to fix it - then it is work! ;)
So it sounds like if you want to go to an automatic you can just change out the injectors and drop the hp down to the range you need.
As much as I like my automatic now, I would keep the big injectors for power and find a manual that fits. More fun blowing by the trucks up the hills...
Leave it up to us keyboard mechanics to spec. out your new engine swap!...
JC
My next door neighbour came over and unloaded it with his "little" forklift, no problems at all. Next step is to build a cradle to let me pull the engine out of the bus before snow flies, and once I have them side by side I can start serious work.
Brian
I like my auto too much to ever have a manual. :) The 644 is rated for 300 hp and 780 lbs. of torque with a Gvw of 50,000 lbs. I weigh just under 30,000 lbs. Supposedly my 8v71 has been bumped up to the mythical 318 hp although i have also been told that it would only really be about 308 instead of 318. I wonder though, just how much of a "fudge or safety" factor they have in that rating for the 644? I would think that they would want to be a little conservative in their figures.
Better buy you a complete set of gaskets from Don or Dale at Bus Parts when you start buying the gaskets one at a time from DD it will cost you big bucks while a set will cost 200+ and you will have extras when you need some
good luck
What about an allison mt-654. I have been told it would work in that app. I have one with a good 8-71n that I am going to pull in a couple months.
Eric, what I think the deal is that a 644 or 654 may work with an 8V-71N, at circa 300 hp and 800 ft lbs of torque, but wouldn't work with estimated/guessed 370 hp and 1150 ft lbs in my new 8V-71T configuration. I liked TomC's explanation of one of the torque requirements on a automatic - if it shifts up with foot on the floor and the engine in it's torque band, it has to pull the rpms down to meet the new ratio with the clutches. That has got to hurt...
I am going to use my Spicer, and get the clutch effort down to a reasonable level by hook or by crook...
Brian
I've been running am mt654 behind a Cummins M11 set at 400 hp and 1450 tq. It's been in there for 2 years and it still preforms great. I currently weigh 30,000 lbs. I know what the rating is for the trans and drive accordingly
I just put my coach on the road in march after a ten year conversion( ITS TRUE!). We have put over 6k miles on it so far. The thing shifts great and smooth. I would use it with the new setup except for the electronic engine. I am changing to an allison 4000 mhp. Tom may be right about the rating I can't remember. I do know my 05 eagle weighs 38500lbs. and we tow a 16' with stuff and two bikes.