Since the P.O of my bus blessed me with this outer door handle I would like to change it out for a regular locking truck or rv type. In order to do this I'm looking at removing the entire aluminum panel and replacing it because I'm going to have holes in places I don't want no matter what I do.
I was planning on replacing it with aluminum but due to cost and availability I'm sort of wondering about 14 gauge steel which is still expensive enough as it is. I guess I could even go with 16 gauge.
Any thought on the ease of putting in my locks or weight on hinges etc? Any thought on rivets for such material and weight?
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi807.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fyy359%2FPaladin_MC8%2FIMG_0930.jpg&hash=e864772247841ade445999ca3b0bd46cff6c2ca2)
Get a bear claw latch and a truck paddle handle.
But I do love that handle......... ;)
been using 18 ga cold roll on projects for years..takes paint well.Just used to sheet slides on new project..4 by ten ft sheet $56.....Bob
If the two holes that are shown in the picture are all that you have to deal with, why not just put the door latch of your choice in one hole and a dead bolt in the other. That would save you the work and expense of new skin. If there are other holes, not shown, then that method won't work.
Good luck, Sam MC8
Yeah, there is another small hole just above the door handle. I really hate the expense and hassle of replacing the panel but I don't see a better way round it.
Find a good heliark welder and have them fill the holes. They can make it where you can't see it.
What is the door frame made of? Is the current aluminium skin the stock skin? I ask because of potential corrosion problems where dissimilar metals meet. Bare aluminium and steel like to corrode badly if not insulated. Anyway, if it's aluminium, I would replace with aluminium, personally, if you like the bare metal look you have. Steel - 16 gauge is plenty heavy, it's pretty tough at 1/16" thick, and heavy. Stainless steel is another good bare metal option, just be really careful working it, drilling holes, etc, it is tough to work. Sharp tool, slow speed, heavy pressure. If the tool isn't cutting, the stainless steel work hardens instantly and you have a real job on your hands... Select rivets to match the showing panel, again to prevent corrosion. And yes, you could TIG weld in patches and metal-finish so they can't be seen. But you would have to finish the whole panel or you will be able to tell where the work was done - it will be the shiny spots!
Brian
I believe though I'm not sure that the frame is made of aluminum and I did think of the corrosion issue but thought I could coat with Dicor or something in between. I thought of doing that anyway for some added adhesive value and maybe some mild insulation from thermal transfer.
I thought of having is tig welded but yes, I didn't think it would leave it without marks and the cost would probably be near or more than just buying a panel.
Since my bay doors and the opposite panel on the drivers side are shiny and I'm not sure if I'll paint them I'm thinking maybe biting the bullet and buying aluminum sheet and paying the $$$. I just wish the guy hadn't put that handle there and after he did it so did he but it was too late.
Why can't I ever find that elusive money tree?
Can you figure out away to make the difference an asset and accent it (maybe with paint or wood veneer) ?
Aluminum sheet is really not that expensive, you really should price it at a metals dealer. Now when you consider all the other options mentioned, the aluminum becomes downright cheap. Rivet on a new skin and your done. Every other option will just be more work and more expenses for poorer results.
small hole above existing handle.........for a courtesy lamp?