Works better than OEM compressor. I guess I need new OEM compressor. 30 minutes for OEM 15 minutes with aux compressor. Just for you Craig.
John
Quote from: Jriddle on September 07, 2010, 06:31:26 PM
Works better than OEM compressor. I guess I need new OEM compressor. 30 minutes for OEM 15 minutes with aux compressor. Just for you Craig.
John
::)
i got one just like that but my tanks don't detach... bloody heavy too. :o
Brian
John,
If your saying it takes 30 minutes to air up with your engine driven compressor, there is a problem.
Yep there is a problem. Need good OEM compressor for a MCI/TMC MC-9 with 6V92.
John
stir, stir, stir lol
Quote from: cody on September 07, 2010, 07:31:08 PM
stir, stir, stir lol
Not today but have in the past?
John
I'm a little confused too, do you have one of these driven off your crank:
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.solware.co.uk%2F2005-images%2Fcompressor.jpg&hash=7184b8a4c78bc6cbc6797647f05208597e1d6fff)
:-[
John,
The best deal on a rebuilt I found was from JR at REI (Rebuilders Enterprise Industry) as I posted somewhere else today (800 489-9860). They charge more for the core than they do for the compressor but will give you some time to get it back to them before they run the core charge. They rebuild DD3's also for about half of what I paid for my set. Although my compressor seemed alright, we changed it when the engine was out in the hope of avoiding having to wrestle with it sometime in the future. The new one pumps much faster than the old one did.
Roy,
no, on mine the crank does the driving.
Thanks Lin.
I have been looking on EBay and they have a store there. For MCI $335.00 or best offer. Thanks to you I have a number and contact person I will give that angle a try.
John
John, if that is a Tu-Flo 700, that is a heck of a deal!!!
Jim
John, if the compressor doesn't have the Bendix rebuild tag on it I would save my money there are some crappy rebuilt compressors on the market a good one will cost a little more but well worth it IMO
good luck
Thanks all
I will be taking my time on this one.
John
On my bus the crank does the driving too, she's afraid to drive it lol.
Quote from: Jriddle on September 08, 2010, 07:29:08 AM
Thanks all
I will be taking my time on this one.
John
You might want to try cleaning and rebuilding your governor. I had an issue with mine once where it would not air up properly. I eventually cleaned it, greased it, and replaced the o-rings and it
has been working great for 6 or 7 years. The new one I bought to replace it is riding around in the toolbox for a spare.
Usually, one of the signs of a worn out compressor is oil passing through and coming out the dryer discharge. If you don't have that, you might just have a sticky governor.
Might be worth a try. Certainly cheaper than a new compressor.
My governor will stick everynow and then. Thanks I will give that a try.
John
Duh, thanks Craig for pointing out the obvious that I completely overlooked.
I took off governor and cleaned it. I went to get new o-rings and found Napa sells new one for $12.50. It does not say Bendix all over it but works well. I didn't get a good time to fill from zero but did time 90 psi to 125 psi at idle 8 minutes and at fast idle 3 minutes. The part Number on new governor is H284358.
Cody
I told you no Stir Stir Stir LOL
John
Just for reference, and you probably know this already, the normal test for compressor recovery is from 85 psi to 100 psi in no more than 45 seconds, and usually closer to 20 seconds. That's with the engine at high idle, or 1000 rpm, depending on if you have high idle. I found some tests that called for max governed RPN, but I don't think I'm going to stand on the throttle pedal for 20 seconds with a stop watch in my hand watching a pressure gauge... :P
Brian
Quote from: bevans6 on September 08, 2010, 11:23:42 AM
Just for reference, and you probably know this already, the normal test for compressor recovery is from 85 psi to 100 psi in no more than 45 seconds, and usually closer to 20 seconds. That's with the engine at high idle, or 1000 rpm, depending on if you have high idle. I found some tests that called for max governed RPN, but I don't think I'm going to stand on the throttle pedal for 20 seconds with a stop watch in my hand watching a pressure gauge... :P
Brian
Alright Brian you p&**%# me off with your test I had to get grease all over me (LOL). I went out and on fast idle it took over a minute to go from 85 psi to 100 psi. Now I had to dig deeper and found the unloader valves sticking. I removed them and cleaned them up now I still am testing them to see if they will stick again. But can go from 85 psi to 100 psi in about 28 seconds on fast idle.
Thanks
John
So, for us dummies, did you happen to take any photos of the unloader valves and how you cleaned them?
No But still have intake off and can get some.
John
Weel - If you think of unloader valve, and your own personal unloader valve, and pictures - do you really think that is a good idea?
28 seconds is right up there in the 'job done, lets watch this and see' category. It passes the test, it's very close to optimum, but it should not change much from day to day, it should remain pretty consistent. It's if it starts to change that you start to wonder.
Also, it's important to not have any governor delay time in there. You need to have the engine running at high idle, you need to make sure that nothing is calling for air, like the door cylinder closing, or the suspension airing up. Then you fan the brakes down to 80 psi, wait for the governor to cycle, and then measure the time from 85 psi to 100 psi. You are measuring JUST the compressor recovery that way.
Good job, though, very impressive!
Brian
I removed the intake and the unloader valves are there. Then removed the spring. The top picture shows valves unloaded.
After removing spring I removed the bar that bridges across to the valves. I then found that I had to load the compressor by fanning the brakes to get the valves out.
View with valves out and parts on bench. Now I can put it back together
John