I have a 4106 and I pulled the dip stick on my 4 speed manual transmission (Spicer) and it is dry. Where do I add fluid to this and what type does it get. Please help.
http://pulse.yahoo.com/_YAGMXA2WTSXESK65TS33KOQAAI/album/photos/detail/page (http://pulse.yahoo.com/_YAGMXA2WTSXESK65TS33KOQAAI/album/photos/detail/page)
Here is a link to the pictures I hope is works'
My Spicer, which is in an MCI, is quite happy with 50 weight motor oil. I actually use a synthetic 50 weight transmission oil. Yours may need gear oil for the v-drive gear, you may want to check in the manual.
There is no Obvious cap to put it in. Where do you go when you add to it?
What do you use? Patience and and old squeeze bottle, like an old Lucas additive bottle wiith a tapered cap. I use 50W Valvoline Racing oil in mine and it still cost mealmost $3G to replace the gearbox this spring. If only we'd pay more attention to the fluids in these old buses we'd savee ourselves not only money but a while lot of aggrevation.
Try to remember that our old buses were built at a different era, no quickie oil changes back then. Greyhound and Trailways had shops built just to accomodate them for maintainence because they were the life blood of the line.
An old bus? It sure is a patience and a character builder. But tooling down the highway with you and your family inside is the greatest reward a builder can get for all the effort.
Treat the old girl like you would your Mom. Be patient and caring and you'll be more than satisfied with the result.
NCbob
There is a large pipe plug on the top of the transmission and you add engine oil 40 wt.
you can just pour it down the dipstick tube if you want to, that;s how mine is filled..
Brian
The 4104 four speed Spicer has a huge (about 1.5") pipe plug right on top of the trans about a foot from the dipstick.
I'm very surprised to hear the 4106 doesn't have this plug even though I know the trans are arranged differently.
Mine calls for 50 wt mineral oil. I'm sure you can use 40wt, mine had 30wt when I got it, but 50 will probably be better. One thing for sure, do not use 90wt.
This trans has a pump to circulate oil which is the reason it doesn't use 90wt. The big GMC trucks of that era use Spicers and also use 50wt because they also have oil pumps.
Hi Madmike,
I looked at the picture of your transmission in the link you posted and I see one pipe plug to the left of the reverse solenoid that you can put oil in. That plug lets you inspect the bevel gears but I think the oil you put in that hole will go into the transmission. I also see the corner of the other plug under the reverse shift lever and you can fill through that hole also. The book I had for our 1962 4106 called for 30 wt. motor oil.
I would check to be sure that the low oil pressure switch on the filter housing is working and that the low trans. oil light comes on (on the dash) when you turn the master switch on (before you start the engine). That light my save your transmission if you rupture a transmission oil line. I hope you haven't already damaged your transmission from being too low on oil.
Good luck, Sam MC8
OK. I did like most people always say and that is to check the manual. The transmission holds 21 pints of oil and the Manual says to use the same as you use in you engine, I have been putting in 40W so that is what went in. She took one gallon and is still a little low. I will order up more oil and top her off. My dip stick does not read for Hot or Cold so it is a little low on the stick. I will check her hot to see where she is out. I had thought about going down the dip stick but it is so narrow I thought it would take for ever. I did put it in the Filler Plug just to the left of the Dip Stick. It was a 1-1/2" plug, true to the advice I had been given. (Thanks for all) She is new to me and I am learning every time I get to take her out to play. I just don't want to mess something up because I was not checking. For the Record, I do not get any warning lights from engine temp to trans low! The only one I get is Oil Low when starting. My Temp Gauge Does not work and that is my biggest concern. I will keep on looking her over and report to all. Thanks so much to the member of this board for Helping me and keeping me on the right path.
Madmike, the original wiring scheme in these coaches was very good. If you can restore the lights and gauges, you really should.
For example, these came with a current detection circuit that would cause the stop indicator to work if all the bulbs were good, but not if one bulb was out. And all circuits other than the starter motor are protected by circuit breakers.
For what it's worth.
Tom Caffrey
Tom,
The stop Light, turn signal, an low oil ( every now an then work) Oh yeah and the AC light works but I dont think the A/c Works. Nothing else on the dash has lit up so far. Any ideas?
The most important question now is where did that oil go? Transmissions don't use oil, they only leak it. If the leak is not obvious then it is probably the front seal and that oil is getting all over your clutch, only leading to more problems down the road.
Fortunately, the old GM buses are about the easiest to pull the transmission and fix the problem.
My trans leaks like crazy. Since these trans have an oil pump I think it is going out the front main trans seal.
Since my engine leaks so much it is hard to tell which is worse!! I have to add a couple of quarts to the trans every 1000 mi or so. The dipstick makes it easy to check.
I think both main seals are gone in the engine also.
What has got me off my butt to check it is that the engine shutters when you start to let off of the clutch. I am catch all the gears but that shutter when taking off has got me worried. I just spent 3k to have the clutch replace and I don't want to mess it up. I don't know of any mech's in my area that I can have check it out. I am going on a long trip in two weeks and with out the temp gauge and trans light I will not sleep well at night.
Mike you need to get under there and look for loose bolts. When mine was shuttering I found all but 3 of my driveshaft bolts gone. I had my trans in for about 1000 miles before it started. I found it the day it started to shake but only because I was looking at something else.
I will take the advice and get under there even more. I know the bell housing is missing one or two bolts but I am going to put the working gloves on and get under there to check it out better. I love my bus but I do not have the money for any more major repairs. I would hate to have to scrap it.
Your clutch shudder is probably caused by oil on the clutch (maybe from the trans?), or, it could mean a loose engine mount.
Mine is bad to do this but I'm not surprised because it leaks so much oil.
Check your engine mounts for shudder cause. Order some new ones and replace. Not a bad job, just messy. The oil you're losing has wiped out the mounts. Trust me I know from experience. Should have changed when the engine was rebuilt.
You really, I mean really, get the water temp, low engine oil pressure and low transmission oil pressure working. If the low oil lights don't illuminate when the main switch is turned to on, prior to starting the engine, you have a problem with, most likely, the pressure sender.
Bill