We also need to buy a jack for the bus. I am thinking that a bottle jack would be best. We have a regular 20 ton bottle jack, but it takes forever to raise the bus.
What kind of air powered bottle jack is best? Should I go with a carquest brand, or HF freight brand? It obviously has to fit under the axle, so fairly low profile.
Thanks a lot.
God bless,
John
John 316, I would look at northern hydraulics and buy a Torin jack if it is available in the style You want. I have two of the Torin's and as they are made in japan the quality difference in the Chinese stuff versus the Torin is very obvious! I assume all of the torins are made in japan but only have the two of the same model! The fit and finish of the torins is heads and shoulders above the other stuff. I would also not trust any of the seals in the harbour stuff from the first minute after it is received. Just My take probably not worth enough to buy a cup of Joe! Regards,John L
John,
Thanks for the reply. Is the the jack that you are referring too? http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200305255_200305255 (http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200305255_200305255)
The jackpoint on our bus is next to the axle (I couldn't fit the jack under the axle anyways). My question is, could I get that jack directly next to the axle to a jack point? I am just trying to figure out the distance between the ram and the outside "wall" of the bottle jack.
Thanks.
God bless,
John
John, I have two of the stubby's, the 92006 is too tall to fit under My jack points. I do have a old blackhawk that in order to use I drive the bus up onto a ramp to get the extra height! The stubby's will go under the jackpoints with a half inch aluminum plate under them. The torins are a good product at least so far. Regards John L
I have the harbor freight 30 ton to do my jacking...recently blew a tire to rim..lacked 1/2 inch going under front axle so I just drove the bus up on a block of wood..with spare on it has plenty of room under the axle...Bob 2 yrs old and no problem
John,
So you are saying that the 20ton is too tall for your lift points...correct? Our lift points (they are like special tabs midway up on the back of the axle) are 13 inches tall, so we can get the 20 ton in there. I am just wondering whether the jack is skinny enough to fit right beside the axle.
If that doesn't work, then I can take Bob's suggestion and get a couple of nice blocks.
Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it.
God bless,
John
One thing, no matter how good the brand and the fit, never ever work under the bus with only the jack supporting it. Always block it up after jacking before working under it. Any bottle jack can fail and you don't want to be under the bus when that happens.
John,
I, as well, have (2) 20 ton manual jacks. I made a stainless steel replacement handle which is about 22" long. This is still a work out, but I can jack without getting so far under (read tight) and the additional leverage eases the grunting.
I use the SS handle to push & position the jack, but have a rope tied to it to pull it out. So far it is working out.
OT: Junkman, I have a Blackhawk floor jack (roll around, not a bottle) and am looking for a rebuild kit. Any suggestions on sourcing ? ?
Thanks,
Gary
Not having much experience in such things, I purchased an air over without a return spring. I would not do it again! The return spring and a rope are a great way to go!!!!!
After some thought I purchased a 12 ton, its 3/8" shorter and 11 pounds lighter than the 20 ton!! Makes a big difference when pushing it around under bus.
Like Gary I also made a handle, about 2 foot long. Being a poor boy I could not afford stainless so I made it out of 1/2" galvanized. I hit one end of the pipe with a sledge to collapse it a bit and cut two slots in it with an angle grinder to fit the ????? relief valve???.
HTH JIm
OK well I have plenty of experience here!
I have several of the Harbor Freight jacks, and several of the Torin Jacks and even a Blackhawk and a SOB (some other brand unknown)
Well with the use the jacks get around our place I have seen an almost brand new 12 air assist fail the same as a 20 ton air assist HF that needed help starting from day one! (once it has a load on it it goes by itself!)
The Torin blew out a seal and lost hydraulic fluid everywhere while jacking the steer axle up, and came down in a hurry. (good thing I was in the pit!) I have to admit I never contacted Northern Tool to see about a replacement!
All of our jacks see regular abuse/use and I strongly second Mike's caution of not getting under a bus without a safety stand, block, or jack in place. (I used to do it regularly, but I'm older and don't have a pit anymore ;))
John, have you measured the jacking point with a tire down? You might be surprised! I would always carry several run up blocks. Setra's come with them from the factory! seriously! (and two jacks a stubby and a regular!)
Also you guys might want to consider using 12 ton jacks over 20 ton jacks. And I have never seen anyone jack up the whole bus using one jack!
A 12 ton will pick up any one corner of a bus just as well as a 20 ton, and they are usually smaller & lighter.
FWIW ;D BK ;D
BK,
You are correct about the abundance of capacity of a 12T jack, I lilke the 20T jack as it has better ratio/leverage, the 20T is easier to operate, but is slower and needs more cycles.
JJRbus,
I laughed about the SS matl for a handle, I work for a food company and I watch the scrap bin in the machine shop. Otherwise, I am just a barefooted niave kid from W Va trying to get along in the fast lane of NJ...
Makin Soup, Feedin America,
Gary
BK, being the quality ride that the MCI'S are they came with a run up block located up under the driver! The big quality imports do not need the blocks as You know the high quality rigs never break! LOL By the way the reason the torins You have probably broke is because as You and I know to a redneck 20tons means 20 times! Call Me what you want except late for supper boys. John L