Yesterday I was supposed to get my black tank drained. I had the guy on his way and I decided to prep everything. I put the hose on the tank valve and I gave a little tug.....
Oops. The valve came off and all the sh$t came out onto the ground.
They told me nothing would stick to that type of plastic and I had to get it spin welded. I should have listened.
Anyone know where I could find someone that could help me fix my tank?
To
try to clarify, the knife valve came off, there is still the white round part comming off the tank.
A picture would help. Is the part sticking out of the tank threaded - inside or outside threads?
Tell me if this photo works. I'm doing it all from my phone.
Sorry about the flow...
But this is spin welded onto my tank. This is what is sticking out.
http://s793.photobucket.com/albums/yy216/photolistic7/?action=view¤t=35ecfe36.jpg&evt=user_media_share (http://s793.photobucket.com/albums/yy216/photolistic7/?action=view¤t=35ecfe36.jpg&evt=user_media_share)
You could have washed it out before the pic :-X
You are trying to go from Styrene to PVC or ABS glues don't work it has to be done with a Fernco coupling Weld on glue #4807 will work styrene to styrene.
good luck
Another option is to get the proper spin weld fitting & use a router to spin it on. - Of course you'll have to make an adapter to chuck the fitting into the router, but it should be doable at home. If you clean it first. ::)
QUIT IT! Use a rubber sewer pipe connector. All you need is a $8 thingy and a screw driver....you already have the pipe you need cut to the length you want. Slip on the rubber. ???
When you find the guy that will come over and "help" with that project.....you will have discovered a TRUE friend. ::) I still love ya but I can't help you.....ever! ;D Not with that.
Is that the tank you bough down here in Eugene? Install looks good. Contents look shity. ;)
John
Ok I think I got the parts. I'll tell you how it stinks.. I mean goes.
looks like repair will be easy with rubber connector...smell well------flush with water---flush----flush---maybe something like toilet tank chemical or Odor B Gone...brings back memories ::)
Ok I got a 3" pipe to slide all the way into the white piece comming out of the tank and then on to my knife valve. The guy at my local RV place (top o'hill RV) told me to use 100% silcone to conect it all. Will this work? Then a pair of hose clamps on the outside squeezing on the pipe.
you can try it---silicone has to have something to grip to...but will fill voids if clamps will hold(compress) outside pipe...would be nice if you could put some sort of stop to hold against outside of valve to press back against tank for extra security...or looking at you picture a strap around valve tied back to your plywood....cheap extra support..
I would go with JohnEd, use a rubber sewer clamp with the two hose clamps. If you can get the 3" pipe inside the styrene nipple, so much the better. I wouldn't even bother with the silicone, a good mechanical connection is what you need here.
What is the outside diameter of the nipple coming out of the tank? Try to match the diameter of the n ipple and the PVC pipe, connecting the 2 together with a Frenco rubber sleeve. Just tighten the 2 hose clamps on ther Fernco fitting. I would also make a support for the PVC to help prevent future problems. Jack
Ok it WILL fit over the nipple on the tank and I can get the rubber connector to work on the blade valve with a 3" 3" pipe. But I DO have to glue the 3" pipe to the knife blade connector. Just PVC glue right?
Ok got it to fit over. So I'm going your way John. Thanks.
Picture of fix please
Without the poop!
Try not to take such a shi&y pic this time ;D
Jack looks like we have a new name for a Frenco coupling it is called a 8 dollar rubber thingy sorry JohnEd that's funny I don't care who you are.LOL you got the message across that's all that matters
good luck
I think you mean "Fernco"
sure did Lin I was playing with John to see if he could find it but I corrected it just for you.
good luck
Thanks Len. I wasn't going to say anything to "Cliffored". I thought Fernco sounded pretentious so I just got the point across. ::)
Thanks Clifford.......thanks a lot! Harrumph! :P :-*
John
Or.,
The plastics you are joining with silcone most likely have some sort of "mold release" on them. Remember the "purple stuff" (take note Clifford) that we use as a prep for CPVC? Its for the mold release "stuff". Silicone will absolutely bond to almost everything EXCEPT wax and mold release for starters. In the best of preps and applications the stuff seems to delaminate after time. For you that means a leak of epic proportions even if it is a dribble. At some time in the future.....eventually....sooner or later....bye the bye.
I didn't think this up. Every Hi Line that I have looked at has a rubber sleeve "thingy" connecting the pipe coming out of the toilet flange to the pipe that sticks up from the tank. The tank and pipe are never hard connected. I always thought that was to prevent damage due to relative movement and to allow the tank to be removed.
I am so taken with them, smitten actually, I will even install them on pipes I absolutely know go nowhere and carry nothing. ??? ::) ;D
The other john
I like the rubber Poop shoot thingy connector ;D ;D, used one to connect a 3" dump hose to the factory 4" lavatory dump valve. simply amazing how easy rubber stretches in the dessert heat ;D
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi457.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fqq292%2Fcwvanhagen%2Fde-construction005.jpg&hash=5f233d37f79100488130c8580ad0908ed3006b28)
I always use butyl caulking to put the sewer pipes together and it lasts but you can force it apart for repairs. Jerry
Gents,
This is what somebody recommended to us to glue onto these type of materials. It is made by the folks that make shoe goo. https://www.hardwareworld.com/Plumbers-Goop-pGJXKNA.aspx (https://www.hardwareworld.com/Plumbers-Goop-pGJXKNA.aspx)
I was amazed, that stuff worked! It actually stuck, when people told me it wouldn't. You won't believe it until you try it. We got it at our local plumbing supply store.
And no, I have no vested interest in this product. It just worked amazingly well for me.
God bless,
John
You mark my words: Somebody will complain to Mike about my using the word "thingy" and then Mike will step in and change it to witch-a-macallit. >:( :P ;D Wanna bet?
Jordan
Quote from: Oregonconversion on June 22, 2010, 03:38:57 PM
Ok it WILL fit over the nipple on the tank and I can get the rubber connector to work on the blade valve with a 3" 3" pipe. But I DO have to glue the 3" pipe to the knife blade connector. Just PVC glue right?
If these are Valtera or other RV-type waste valves (the black ones), they are ABS not PVC. PVC would be white.
You want to use ABS pipe with that and ABS cement. If for some reason you have no choice but to join PVC to ABS, you need a special cement called "transition cement." But it's better to use ABS all the way.
FWIW, I don't think a rubber "no-hub" connector will hold on the polystyrene fitting you have on the tank. Nothing sticks to it and nothing grips it, either. If it were my tank, I would cut that off and have a proper NPT-threaded fitting spin-welded in.
Lastly, silicone will not adhere to polystyrene, and is almost never the right material for plumbing applications.
-Sean
http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com (http://ourodyssey.blogspot.com)
As usual, I agree with Sean in theory, but as a practical matter, it is what it is. The tank is in place and I'm sure that cost and time play a large role here.
I would insert the 3" ABS into the styrene nipple with the goop of your choice (it wont stick, but it will make you feel better), then a couple of short sheet metal screws through both pipes, followed by the no-hub rubber boot. Keep the screws on top where waste won't snag on them.
It's not the perfect solution but it will "work fine and last long time".
Len
A no hub clamp may work better for you there is a difference in no hub and a Fernco the no hub is wrapped in stainless steel with 2 bands and needs to have the right torque on each end it is a good clamp used in commercial building to join cast iron pipe
There are just some pictures we should not see before the third cup of coffee ;D
Since nothing will stick to it, use some coarse sand paper to rough up the surface - then the rubber sleeve or goop of choice will have a mechanical 'tooth' to hold onto.
What a crappy project . . .