Hey folks,
I just went with a fellow busnut friend (Steve5B) and picked up a used Carefree 20' awning. It was on a camper with flat sides. I want to put it on my 4108. Will I have any issues there? I have a welding and fab shop so if I need to modify anything, I think I can do it. But any suggestions on how to put it on is greatly appreciated. I just don't know if there are any "Rules of Thumb" in mounting one. This is my first experience.
My thinking was as close to the top of the rain gutter as possible. I'm also under the understanding I need to anchor the arms/posts directly outside from where the floor meets the wall. I guess so the lags tie into the floor as well.
Steve gave me some real good pointers but any help on how and where is greatly appreciated as I don't have the manual.
Oh, and as would be expected, the vinyl is ugly and "shot". (figures, huh.) Any suggestions there?? I think it's about 6' - 8' wide. Is it possible to go longer? It just seems kinda short when it's up so high. I held the tape measure up to the bus to get an idea of how it would work, but it's hard to tell since I have never had one.
Thanx for all the help!
Chaz
Chaz, see if this link works, Eric Brown (Ericbsc) here on the board is a Carefree dealer, and did me right when I got mine, needed the legs and hardware, which he got to me the next day :) I mounted the awning rail 6" above the drip rail on our Eagle, your bus might be difernt. Eric's number is 864-599-zero two two 0
http://www.carefreeofcolorado.com/techdocs.asp?m=01000000 (http://www.carefreeofcolorado.com/techdocs.asp?m=01000000)
here's ours, LR
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi457.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fqq292%2Fcwvanhagen%2Fbusupdateapril210026.jpg&hash=7277900720f4f79cf791447e9d2ed458fa320871)
If you can put the awning rail on your bus where the roof curve starts, you can use the straight arms, if the bottom of the arms can be attached to the side of the bus with no interference problems. Jack
Jack,
I think I can make that happen... But I will have to mount the top on the curve. (The curve starts at the drip rail) The small amount of curve along with the drip rail makes me think I will have to do some "adjusting" to the arms/posts whatever they are called.
Van,
Thanx a bunch for the pic and the link!!!! After reading thru it......... it think I have a bit of a job ahead of me. Since it is not new, the springs are unwound and I don't have the "straps", parts manual, etc....... it could be a treat. :o
I have to get an awning rail as we couldn't get the one off the camper. It was different than the one I seen on the link.
I hate to call and bother Eric but I may if I can't figure something out. I was hoping I could sort most of it out here on the board. But I may end up calling him anyway, if I can't find that rail locally. I'd hate to have it shipped if it comes in long lengths.
Thanx for all the help!!
Chaz
Chaz,
Check Carefree's web site. I found all the installation instructions for our used ZipDee on ZipDee's site along with a complete parts list. Awning rail should be available at any RV store. Jack
Quote from: Chaz on May 10, 2010, 09:35:19 AM
Jack,
I think I can make that happen... But I will have to mount the top on the curve. (The curve starts at the drip rail) The small amount of curve along with the drip rail makes me think I will have to do some "adjusting" to the arms/posts whatever they are called.
No problem. You can take off the "upper" arms, then put a bend in them. They won't slide all the way down the "lower" arms, and you may have to doctor them a little, but this works just fine.
Hi,Chaz.
My only suggestion is make sure you wear good leather gloves when you wind the springs....you probably dont need to ask why... ::)
Best of luck.
Mark
Chaz, do you have the aluminum protective cover with the fabric attached? if you do you must use a certain type of rail. the rail needed will have the open channel facing up as opposed to 90 out on the standard rail, my scanner is ca-putt.so I will try to take a photo of the ones I used, not a big deal. I also bought the 20' awning rail at CW under 20 bucks. It might be necessary to cut the upper portion of the arms, still no biggie. First get the rail mounted then plum a line down to the belt line which is where the bottom brackets will go. Now the fun part, slide the fabric, or the allumiguard into the rail. from the factory the springs are already wound , mine was used also and unsprung. I gave mine 7 whole turns, the side with the lock should be in the open position when winding to lock the tension the rear spring will need to be pinned though one of the two slots, this will get you started. If more tension is needed, pull the awning out all the way (once mounted) out, now you will need a 6 foot ladder and an assistant, disconnect the legs and manually roll up the awning by hand, this will add more spring tension, and reinstall the legs. good luck. V
Thanx Jack. I checked their site but didn't see anything. The link Van sent had some good stuff but didn't answer it all.
I was hoping so, BG6. I guess it will be more obvious when I get into it. I can even cut and TIG it back together if need be. I'm just not sure if "length's" (arm's, post's, canopy, etc.) make differences on some of the stuff like when mounting or when it is open, etc. I guess it's probably not rocket surgery. ;) I guess basically, I just don't know what I just don't know. ;) And like I mentioned, I was curious if I can use a longer canopy.
You're a smart man, Mark. I tear my hands up on a regular basis so I REALLY DO know what you mean. :o ;D I just need to know the "rule of thumb" for how many twists the spring needs for how many feet I have of canopy.
Thanx again, guys,
Chaz
Chaz my awning is a ZipDee so slightly different but similar principles. I was terrified of the winding part, having heard too many stories about runaway springs. After Clifford's excellent coaching I can say its no big deal. He had a rule about how high in the air the wound spring needed to be able to hold the half-arm. That rule would no doubt be specific to ZipDees but the main point is that, as long as you don't ever disconnect the arm from the spring shaft, you should have no problems. With the arm for leverage you have great control of the spring. Van says 7 turns so that is a starting point. Try it and you'll know right away if it needs more.
Van, looks like we criss-crossed. ;D I think I understand but I will have to get the awning installation going to know what some of the pieces you are talking about are. It should be self explanatory I would think.
Mine does not have that aluminum protective cover you mentioned. Sounds cool tho. I was kinda scheming a way to make something to attach to the bus, over the top of it, to protect it. But that aluminum protective cover sounds cool...... But pricey, I'll bet. I guess I should figure that out before I go and buy a rail.
Knowing 7 rounds of tension is a good starting point helps a bunch!!! The other stuff about legs and locks, etc. I'm going to just have to figure out when I get started. I also intend to "call in some markers" from friends to help! ;D ;D ;D I will probably be the one wearing the gloves tho. ;)
Thanx again!!!!!!
Chaz
Chaz, here is a photo of the rails, being you do not have the alum cover use the one on the left (see picture) which is a standard awning rail
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi457.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fqq292%2Fcwvanhagen%2F004-4.jpg&hash=6c43fda20139a89b2abd4b70e46e06118981745f)
Chaz, was a pleasure talking to ya, here is what it looks like in the car port position.
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi457.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fqq292%2Fcwvanhagen%2Fbusupdateapril210009.jpg&hash=1d50ecfeee058677fe82719460e08f8fd0c028f1)
Here's the link I should have posted earlier, start with the Eclipse and search for the awning and hard ware you have, installation instructions for all, this should help, the other link was for the door awning, sorry bout that :-\
http://www.carefreeofcolorado.com/techdocs.asp?m=01000000 (http://www.carefreeofcolorado.com/techdocs.asp?m=01000000)
Chaz:
As was said, use good leather gloves when working with the spring. They are mean, veary mean. Tried to tell a guy that at Lake Powell, he did not listen, when thye let loose, his awning was caught in the wind, his hands looked like they had been in a meat grinder, he was going into shock, I was able to get him out of that and calmed down. Then his wife took him to Page to the ER. He was one sore puppy. He told me the next day, damn why didn't I listen. He also stated next time he would hire some one to do it.
ED
MCI 7
2007 Harley Trike
In beautiful Cornville, AZ
Will do Ed. I'm no stranger to tore up hands doing what I do. (presently 2 blood blisters and three cuts healing. All separate incidents. Three with gloves on.) :P ::)
Thanx again Van, It was good talking with ya. I went to that site and it looks like I have an older model yet!!! As I thought. It may be a predecessor to one of those shown. I just didn't see the same configuration to any of the hardware. I may try to take pix of what I have and post it, but basically, I think I can use the info of one of the models shown. Three of them look similar: Spirit, Fiesta or Simplicity Plus.
I just need to find a deal on a canvas now. ::) ;D
Thanx again,
Chaz
Sorry bout the wrong link. I have seen quite a few dealers on eBay advertising 89 bucks for replacement material cut and prepped for installation might check there first Chaz, remember those three models you mentioned all have the same legs and the upper and lower mount hardware are interchangeable with one another ;). You'll have it made in the shade in no time ;D
I have a carefree on my bus. If weather permits I will take some photos of how/where it is mounted. I am quite sure I have the installation instructions and can scan them for you if you still need them. It would be the weekend before I could do it. Just let me know.
If you can add the aluminum protective cover, I would Highly recommend it. Will add about another foot and will hold up much longer. My vinyl is starting to go away up there being exposed all the time.
Also, I know it may be tough on to do on a buffalo, if you can get it over the front door you will like too. Mine is not and would be nice if it was.
If you look on their website with the link provided by VAN, the Pioneer can make it a hand crank so you won't have to worry about the spring. So you may be able to add some length. Just remember you are limited by the length of your rafter arms and being able to tighten them up. :) But it looks like about 8' is all you are gonna get.
Thanx Van. I'll check out ebay first. I'm just usually skeptical about stuff on there. If anyone has any experience with someone - good or bad - I wouldn't mind knowing.
The legs do seem the same but it kinda looks like that's where the similarity ends. But I'll be looking into it further.
I'd really appreciate that Barnowl!! Pix help a lot. But they can also take a bunch of time to do. If you're busy, don't worry about it. And as for the instructions, I'm curious as to how old yours are? The ones on the site Van sent are for newer models. If yours is one of those, there is no reason to spend your time to send them. I can get them there easy enough. I'm just thinking mine is a quite a bit older model. ( maybe pre Civil War. :D lol )
I think I would actually like to add that Newbee. But, again, I'm not sure I can. The "age thing" has me concerned. I also read something that what I think they do to the regular canopy's is "weld on" (as it were) something to protect the canopy when it's rolled up. I think they just mean they basically "melt" another layer of something on the first foot or so from the bus to protect it. "I think"!! And as far as adding a foot or so with the aluminum protector, I would really like that but I am concerned about possibly having to shorten the arms/legs the way it is. I haven't done any final measurements yet, but I may have to do some "modifications". If anyone else has put one on a Buffalo, I'd like to know if anything like that has to be done.
Because of the "step" on the top of the Buffalo, putting it over the door would be VERY hard to do. The end would basically have to hang out in the air. But a smaller awning could maybe be put there.
The spring doesn't bother me and now that you mention using a hand crank for a longer canopy, I understand why they have hand cranks. I was curious about that. ::)
Thanx again for all the help!!
Chaz
It's raining hard today so no photos possible. My awning was installed sometime before '96 because that is when the PO quit driving it. My guess it was installed sometime in the '80s.
Cool!!!!!!!! I would guess that is somewhere close to mine. And you still have the instructions????????????????????? Wow.
As for the pix, no problem. If you get time, that would be great. If not, that's OK too. I still need to get a new canopy anyway. I looked on ebay and there are a couple on there a little cheaper but no "steals". There is a company there selling "blems" but no pix. I'm a little concerned about them. But they are only running about 120.00. tempting.
Thanx again!!
Chaz
I THINK I found a brochure on my awning!!!!!!! Here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1975-Carefree-Awning-Motorhome-Travel-Trailer-Brochure-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem518c334808QQitemZ350244521992QQptZMotorsQ5fRVQ5fTrailerQ5fCamperQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1975-Carefree-Awning-Motorhome-Travel-Trailer-Brochure-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem518c334808QQitemZ350244521992QQptZMotorsQ5fRVQ5fTrailerQ5fCamperQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories)
At least that is what my canopy looks like!!
Chaz, You can retrofit arms, or covers to your roller. Carefree has the uniguard, or alumaguard. The owner/install manuals on the wabsite will be colse enough to get all the info. you need. And as said before WATCH THE FINGERS!!!! If it gets away from you it is like a meat grinder!! Good luck! Ericbsc
hi this guy is good to work with and he knows his awnings and rv parts he sells on e bay and has a place in fl. known him since 99
he as even came to costa rica a few times he dont sell junk i known because he checks all fabric before selling the day i was there
he was throwing out fabric that was damaged i brought a few home with me if you want tell him john from costa rica sent you
e bay tomsrvpartsclearance # 250258692587 crown
Thanx Eric and John,
I emailed the guy you told me about on ebay to see what he has. Hopefully he will have something I can use. I appreciate the lead!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Kudo's,
Chaz
Chaz,
Sent you a big gmail attachment of pdf files. Pics will have to come later. Just ran out of daylight getting the manual to pdf.
Barn Owl
Got it!!!!!!! Thanx Laryn! It didn't want to work at first, but it came up. I just breezed over it but didn't notice anything about my one main question: Do I HAVE to attach the bottom of the leg at the floor line of the inside of the bus? I'm just wondering if the distance from where the awning is mounted to where the bottom of the leg is mounted makes a big difference. I know there are some adjustments on the pieces, just not sure of the parameters. I guess I will find out when I do it. I just wanted to have that figured out when I call in a couple markers from friends to come over and give me a hand. I'll look it over a little better tomorrow.
Thanx again for doing that!!!!!!!!
Regards,
Chaz
Chaz, they recommend mounting the lower leg mount at the belt line for rigidity, it will flex in and out if just mounted to the panel alone, adjust the leg length to accommodate the height of the roller. This is not to say the lower mount cannot be mounted higher if needed, as long as you add some support behind the area needed to prevent the flexing that will occur with the awning open and the weight is on the legs. If your side panels are part of the support structure, the height of the lower bracket might not be so critical. install the awning rail first then measure down( plumb) to accommodate for the length of the fully collapsed legs, so you do not end up short, you can then extend the measurement if needed.
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi457.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fqq292%2Fcwvanhagen%2Fbusupdateapril210022.jpg&hash=cbb21d57c675bf6fb47258b06f66ed78a6c4d3f3)
I only had to extend mine 1 Hole to match the bottom, had I gone higher, just would extend that many more holes.
When I get the pics to send I think it will help a lot. Needs to quit raining....arghhh!
OK, barring rain tomorrow, I'm going to give my awning a shot. A buddy stopped by today and we sized it up. It looks as tho the largest outside aluminum "arm" piece if you will, (the piece you see when it's stored. sorry, I don't know the proper name.) needs to be cut down. That piece is over 6 feet long and from where I need to mount it at the top to the floor line, it's only about 5 feet. Van's picture shows that piece.
We laid it out on the ground and it seems that since the awning is very adjustable with all the sliding parts, we "should".......... again......... "should" be OK. I'm just a little concerned about cutting that much off.
(Wow, Rain just started beating down. Maybe it WON"T happen tomorrow! :-\)
Oh, and where I bought my "track" for the canopy, the guy told me that I should extend the track past the ends of the canopy at least a foot. He said it helps support the ends on the canopy when you are driving down the road. ??? ??? I dunno. I'm thinking maybe one hole would do it. Whatcha think??
I bought enough s.s. screws to put one in every hole and they are spaced about every 4" to 5" or so. I thought that would be enough. And on top of that, since I have a Buffalo, and it's a 20' awning, the front arm will be between the "D" window and the "odd ball" shaped window so I don't have room for that much track in front of the awning. If it is that critical, I can weld a little tab under the track on either end, to help support the ends. Thoughts??
Oh and one more thing, the canopy that is on it - that I am definitely going to replace - is only about 6 feet long. Hope that doesn't screw me up. I need to go with a 8' canopy.
Thanx again guys!!
Chaz
Sorry you don't have photos from me. My phone line took a lighting hit and I have been out of internet for a week and Verizon still has not got me fixed as of today. I am posting from work which I have to do during a break. Also I had to buy a new camera last Friday because the on/off switch came up missing on the old one, and wouldn't you know it......Not one of my children know anything about it! On top of all that it has rained on me just about everyday I am at home, and the sun shines everyday I am at work. For some reason the awning gods don't want me to help you Chaz. I will still get the photos, but it has not been easy to this point. As for mounting goes, it is my opinion that you can attach it to just about anywhere you want to on the side of the bus. The bus skin is strong enough to handle it. Mine has not been attached anywhere special.
Well, My Buddy, Rusty, and I got it on this weekend. At least to the point where I think I will be good. I still have to get a new canopy to finish it. But it's up and looking pretty good.
I mounted it to the floor line ,but to do so, I had to cut 18" off the aluminum arms that is the exterior part you see when it's closed. (3" wide and heavy) I will only have 6" of over lap but I intend to make 2 thumb screws holds per side to "hopefully" help hold it. I'll weld on 4 small 3/8" thick blocks, tap them and insert Heli-coils for extra holding strength in the aluminum. I'd use Riv-nuts if I had them.
Bottom line, I certainly did not want to cut that much off but I had no choice if I were to mount it to the floor line and it's pretty tough to go any lower. ::) Then, while drilling at the floor line, I find out that there is some sort of framing or layers of framing there that lag bolts will not screw into so I ended up taping it for regular bolts. There was a lot of meat there. I'd say, at least 3/8" to a 1/2" thick. I'm also mounting the center pole so I can remove it, as well as the lower mount, so my bay door will open and stay open.
Thanx for all the help guys. I too will get pix when it's done if someone needs to see how I did it.
Thanx again,
Chaz
I got an awning coming but I can't figure out how to get the old one off!
I know I'm not the slickest slide on the playground but.............. ??? ??? ???
I assume the end caps need to come off but I've tapped on them as hard as I care to and they won't budge. It has some years on it. 20-30 maybe, I don't know.
Any suggestions???????
Chaz
Chaz,
First what brand is it and model if you know? Spring inside roller is under tension, have you released all the spring ternsion? Jack
It's an older Carefree. Oh yeah, springs are as limp as............ well, let's not go there. ::)
There are three 1/2" long sleeves that look to be rivited on the outside of the end caps. I think they help keep it from unrolling when up. I don't know if they go thru or not.
OK, Carefree owners, your turn. Jack
Chaz, did you take out the screw that holds the end cap to the leg? I'm lost now, is this another awning? Grab some pix of the beast so's we can take a gander ;)
P.S. Take one of the awning you just put up too ok? :)
Took photos today for future readers/searchers. Front, rear, top mount.
Here are the pix of the awning parts. It's my understanding this is an "original" Carefree awning.
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi58.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fg279%2FSkulptor%2FMotor%2520Coach%2FDSCN2005.jpg&hash=9d32c1849f09bf9805fe76a06f5f8352c08c7930)
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi58.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fg279%2FSkulptor%2FMotor%2520Coach%2FDSCN2004.jpg&hash=bdccd93be45a6825dca6dac6acd7f72dfb4c0e88)
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi58.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fg279%2FSkulptor%2FMotor%2520Coach%2FDSCN2006.jpg&hash=81d5ca9d602891122c7c6f2ad4896d3e0aef8b9a)
As you can see, I modified the bottom of the arm for two 3/8" locking knobs. Maybe over kill but I don't like things to break. ;)
Now that it's mounted, and I don't have to worry about messing up any paint, I think I'll have most of it sand blasted and powder coated to match the color I want to paint the bus.
So how do I put the new canopy on?? Do I have to beat those caps off?? I hope it's easier than that as I tried tapping pretty hard - to the point it was distorting - and it didn't budge. And I don't think there are any parts available for it either.
Thanx guys,
Chaz
Got my new canopy a couple minutes ago and still no one knows how to put it on? Dang. I guess I'll just try beating on the caps harder. I can't see any other fasteners except the rivets holding the round spacer/rings/studs/ whatever. I don't want to drill them out if not necessary as I don't know if I have any to replace them with.
Thanx Guys,
Chaz
Removed
Thanx Dallas. I can't see if they go thru or not but since you think they do, I'll take the shot at drilling them out. I'd just rather not open that can if it isn't necessary. It just seems odd that a person would have to go thru all that to change a canopy. It is, what I'm told, an "original" Carefree so maybe that's just the way they did it in the beginning.
As far as rivets, I'll let ya know. I'm sure I would have to buy a box just to get 6. And I'm not sure where to go. Goggle will probably be my best friend. ;D
Thanx again for the info and offer!
Chaz
Drill the rivets out of the cap knock the cap off and there should be 3 rivets that locks the spring and they usually go through the fabric unless you have the plastic lock.
Wow blood tore up hands and a trip the ER to change a awning doesn't get better than that Chad lol sure glad I have Zip Dee's
good luck
Wow! Mine is a little newer, but just the same the newer ones have the slot molded into the cap like ours, drill the rivets, and make sure the thing is unsprung . LOL! FWIW I don't know how old the Carefree co.is, but last weekend was the 100th aniversary of the RV ;D ;D good luck Chaz and keep us posted(it ain't over til the large lady sings ;D) ;)
So, not to rob your thread here, Chaz, but if anyone has ZipDee. . .our Prevost has those and we finally got the courage to pull the large one out. It seems a bit ratchety. . . doesn't roll in by itself. . . you have to rotate the tube by hand until it's pretty much up against the bus. . . and the 2nd time we rolled it back. . it sure seemed like it was hanging during a section of the process. . . what kind of a mess are we going to get into to see what's going on? We did rewind a spring many years ago on what was likely a Carefree. . . and it was really simple, but I'm thinking this is all enclosed. . . any advice. . . is it something that could be just because it hasn't been used????. . sound like it just needs tighting winding??? I feels fine when you pull it out. . just flip the locks and tug and it unrolls fine. . not super easy like it has no spring inside. . . . you pull firmly to get it to come down. . . and when you spin it by hand to roll it up. . . it does seem like it maybe tries a little to help you. . . because I can rotate it from one end and the entire awning rolls. . . any advice is appreciated!
I supposed that when we need new fabric, there's not much chance of getting a logo put back on it like it has now either. . . ??? Christy
Christy, Zip Dee is the easiest awning to work on by far check and make sure the tube is not bent first then adjust the tension at the back the tube are easy to straighten and you may need a new ratchet on the front end.to adjust the tension remove the lower arm at the back and pull the rod from the tube turn it till the arm stays about 2 0'clock high your good to go if any problems have Larry call me at home I'll pm my number .
BTW Paul has a Beaver on his awning maybe a xchange lol tell me what color and roll out width and I can pick you one up in OR this summer I know a guy that has the sunbrella fabric for Beavers with the emblem.
Or you can call ZipDee with the code from the cover and they will send you one with the emblem,use the ZipDee web site it tells everything about the awning and how repair and adjust if unclear talk to Richard there
good luck
Christy,
Well, I guess for all intents and purposes I was done with this thread as I got a LOT of great info from fellow bus nuts. And my sincerest appreciation to all those who helped me. And as far as you commenting on it, I think that is fine. But if you are going to add questions and possibly take it away from the original topic........ ya might want to rethink that.
Again, I was pretty much done with it as I think I have my dilemma solved, but if I was still working on figuring it out, I have to say I wouldn't really appreciate it. I may be off base here in my thinking, but a separate thread is usually the best bet. But I'm not really concerned about which way this thread goes from here........... just sayin.
Hope you get yours figured out and maybe this is a good thread for that now. As you well know, something as simple as they are - or should be - can be frustrating a lot of times. And this is the BEST place to get a plethora of valuable info from people who "been there, done that". It really helps further our love and maintenance/creativity of these big beauties.
Chaz
p.s. speaking of which, I just noticed we have 700 pages of topics. MAN!! How cool! Thanx folks!
Good deal Cliff! Here I was thinking that when we replaced the big one, we'd lose our Beaver emblem! We're just trying to keep this coach as original as possible. . . we plan on having it for a LONG time! I'll take a closer look at the awning and definitely take a look at the hardware that is inside the roller tube. . maybe that's where our problem with the sticking lies. Thx, Christy
While camping I took a photo of the end of mine. Mine look like hex-head screws. I looked at a 2006 trailer and it's caps attached the same way.
Had simular problem....soaked it with wd-40 in any hole I could get to..problem curred...saw a guy (pro) do it at a rv rally and charged the guy 140$ might be worth a try....Bob
Christy ours was behaving exactly as you describe last summer. I started out spraying every type of weasel piss I could find in both ends but eventually changed the idler (non-spring) end. The little teeth around the outside of the gear inside were broken up and several of them were jamming it when it tried to turn. Like Clifford said, its not that hard to do but I did have the master to train me. My son & I changed the idler in a campground last summer - a drill and a couple of rivets is all you really need to do it.
Thanks for the info. . . we'll attempt a repair AFTER we get home, ha ha. . . as I don't want to have to "sail" all the way home! Christy
Thanx Barn Owl. That definitely leads me to believe I have to drill out the rivets as Dallas suggested. If I don't get rained on this weekend, I'm going to call in some markers and get some friends to help me. I'm really looking forward to having it on and working. I hope it works out.
Thanx again........
Chaz
Chaz, I think you'll be fine, and you will dig how groovy the shade is.LOL! Glad I got ours up and completed, 110+ today here and not a cloud in site, oh boy! Good luck! ;)
Got'er done. :)
But I gotta tell ya, this is one finger pinchin S.O.B.!!!!!! :o :'( I guess I need to play with it a bit more to get use to it. But I think it's going to take me and another guy to set it up. It isn't the easiest thing to do. I'm also seeing straps in my future for both ends. Pulling the arms over to start is a bit on the hard side. I believe straps attached to the top would be a big plus. Then extending the arms gave me a couple nice blood blisters.
I also think I need to get a little more creative and possibly put some sort of support in the middle for going down the road. It's 20' and it was on another camper for 30+ years with out an issue, but it seems like it could use the extra support. I might try to do some modifying to the center support arm and make that happen...........maybe.
Oh well, it's what I got. It looks good and hopefully I'll get the hang of it and get lots of use out of it. It will be handy for the Tom Petty Concert. ;D
Thanx again for all the help folks! It's greatly appreciated!!
Chaz
Chaz,
One man can set it up easily. It sounds like you don't have the pull strap on it, without it you would probably need two people. There is a flat strap that rolls up with the awning, as you pull it, it unwinds the awning. The inside end/tip is wrapped around a rod that rest in one of the slots on the roller. When extended you can slide the strap to one side or the other, then one or so wraps around the support arm, it is out of the way. I know a photo will help, give me some time (week or so) and I will get one posted. The end of my strap broke from many years of sun exposure and I replaced the bad section by sewing on a strap I cut from a tie down. When rolling back up just slide the strap to the middle and as the awning retracts it rolls the strap back up so you are ready for the next time.
Dang.
Well I guess that's just typical for reinventing the mousetrap or doing something for the first time. I did not realize that a strap was needed - or maybe even two as it did not have one. I will have to get creative - yet again - cause I am not taking the ends off the arms, which lets the tension off the springs and then unrivet the caps to put a strap on. DANG!
I'm thinking more along the line of two straps, one on either end that are just attached to the top of the arms. Would that work?? As it stands, it takes two people - well muscled - to pull the canopy down by the arms. I can see where a center strap could be a lot better. BUT, my awning has to be lifted off wedges at the ends so it can be pulled down. Does yours work like that too?? This is where being a rookie and not knowing stuff sux. :-[
Oh well........ I'll figure something out. Maybe pop riveting the strap in the middle....... I don't know. I need a break from it.
Thanx Barn Owl.
Chaz
There should be a slot in your tube full length of bottom..the strap slides in from one end...has a fat end that fits in the slot..the strap rolls up with the awning..Barnowl is right on...can buy replacement strap for around 10 bucks..use it to let awning up easy when retracting..a pole with a hook on the end will let you hook in the end of it to pull out or hold on it to retract.
Yup. I got three slots that run the length but I have to remove the cap to get the strap in. Not a good thing.
Like I said, I may have to get creative. ::)
Thanx
Chaz
Glue and velcro on the arms or drill a feeder hole on the very end the strap will never come out and will not damage the cap done all the time at RV shops when they forget LOL you are not in a club all to yourself
good luck