Hello everyone!
I'm a total newbie here, so forgive me if I come off as if I don't know anything, because I don't :)
Anyway, I've wanted to have a custom RV made from a bus since I was a kid, & this year I told the wife the tax refund money was mine, since she got to say how it was spent last year. I found an MCI MC8 Crusader for sale for $5,000 with the following description:
"1976 MC-8 47 passenger motor coach with restroom. 8V71 Detroit Diesel with very few miles since rebuild. Allison Auto Transmission, new tires, starts quickly and runs well."
Here are the pics from the ad:
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.craigslist.org%2F3n63m03pb5Q55T65X5a4cc1535f3991d815f8.jpg&hash=341a74d36858d13917daf3919927232b94f9222f)
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.craigslist.org%2F3m73oa3l55O15P25X2a4c9159c33d078d17f3.jpg&hash=c1a5360346392e56373035d2af7834f5870de1fb)
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.craigslist.org%2F3k43p63l15O35Y25T2a4cdaf54b4e252b1dfe.jpg&hash=ec984fba6c4dbe18409f0f27ab36769221cc5e85)
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.craigslist.org%2F3k73me3p35O45W55S6a4c4af1f73c1e1716a7.jpg&hash=eadc41e604566c66be536349d2bfe71f5990e32b)
I did take a look at it, but I didn't really know much about what I should be looking for. I only saw 2 very small bubbling spots under the paint, & what appeared to be very superficial rust on the axles & where the paint had worn in spots on the main beams inside the cargo bays. Both front & rear bumpers didn't line up precisely, but I don't know if that means there is structural damage behind them, or if they just need readjusted. When I opened the cargo door & felt the flooring closest to the opening, it felt wet, but not rotten, & the inside did smell musty.
It apparently hasn't been driven much for the last 7yrs other than taking a few laps around a storage lot once a month or so since it had an engine rebuild. It sounded a little rough on start-up, with some noticeable vibration throughout the cabin, but after a couple minutes of warming up it seemed fine. The driver explained that the idle needed to be set higher so that it wouldn't idle so low at start-up before warming up. After that we did take it for a few laps around the lot & it did seem to run fine. It was able to shift into 2nd gear (sounded smooth), but they didn't have current insurance on it & we couldn't take it out on the open road.
The only other thing we noticed while checking it out was that the high beams lit up, but when switched to low, the high beams went very dim, & the low beams didn't light up. Possible electrical issues? I was also told that the air conditioning worked fine prior to the rebuild, & that it didn't at all after, so they think it was simply not hooked back up.
It did some time as a tour bus in Alaska (possibly Grey Line Tours), & not sure where else (Montana or Arizona maybe) prior to being bought by the current owners who used it as a team bus for a girl's drill team in the Seattle area.
I'm going to go back tomorrow to look at it again, & I'm taking a camera with me this time. I don't see many MC8's for sale very often, but when I do, they are usually asking for $10,000 or more. So, I'm wondering if $5,000 is a good deal, even with the possible problems that I can't foresee, or should I be trying to get it for less. I was told it was negotiable & the owner would take $4,500 for it.
Sorry if I rambled on, but I don't really know what info might be helpful & what wouldn't.
Any input is greatly appreciated, so thanks in advance!
Don
Toppdog, 4.5k seems ok. Offer 4k. Wait before you buy, someone here should be able to look with you. The new tires may be to old to be safe. The bumper corners are very ajustable. Any smoke when cold? Head lites typical MCI wiring, should be an easy fix. Check the floor from above for soft spots ( were wet ) Good luck Tom Y
Hello,
Welcome to this site, great bunch of gentlemen and a wealth of info. Check and see if the OTR is still working. I believe you couldn't
beat it if it is!
Steve 5B.....
That sounds like a pretty good price.
As always, most would suggest you factor in an hour or two careful review by a qualified 2 cycle diesel mechanic. This is money spent that prevents you from having a $5,000 bus and a $15,000 nightmare. Have the mechanic arrive before the engine has been started and make sure it is cold. Let him check out all aspects of the mechanicals, let him drive it around the lot, open up all the electrical panels and look for "shade tree" work or serious electrical chop jobs. If the bus has a bathroom carefully inspect the floors as mentioned. It may also be wise to take pictures and send them to this group so they can do a virtual tour and help out some more.
Remember that all motors are "recently rebuilt". Get a copy of the invoices, verify this information carefully and if cannot be produced then run for the hills! ;D
If someone will stretch the truth about a recent rebuild, they might also be hidding other issues.
Good luck!
Grant
Get the documentation of the recent rebuild, all bus sales seem to advertise a 'recent rebuild', however, it's not logical that anyone would dump 10 to 20K into a rebuild and then sell the bus for 5K, also check the date code on the tires, one of the worst things you can let a tire do is sit in the sun, they'll dryrot and become unsafe, you can figure in 300 to 500 per tire to replace them with new ones, an oil analysis will give you an indicator of the condition of the engine and won't break the bank, also stock up on fuel filters if you buy it and learn to change them without loosing prime lol, algae likes unattended tanks and will plug a filter and leave you on the side of the road quickly. One of the cheapest ways to spend money is to have a qualified bus mechanic look it over for you, especially one familier with MCI and the particular quirks of them, if a bus mechanic gives you the thumbs up then 4K would be a good price keeping in mind that you'll probably put another 4K into it quickly in the form of new tires, possibly batteries, belts, fluid changes, filters etc. The wet floor indicates water seepage, this is very commom and can be quite time consuming to locate and fix, common areas for leaks are under windows, behind clearnace lights, loose rivits on the roof, remember that water can travel a long ways hidden along structural members before it hits wood and settles in so a wet area might be an indicator of a leak that might be a conciderable distance away from the wet area. And remember going into this madness that there is no known cure and it can be quite costly but vastly rewarding.
Well.... I'm not as optimistic as the rest. This sounds like a rust bucket waiting for a sucker. And I love the looks of an MC8.
It's an MC8 that you say has a wet floor. That water didn't buy a ticket to get on the bus! It's leaking. Probably in the clearance light, but all that water is running down
inside the wall, and corroding the wall framing away. The bubbled sides is a prime indicator of a problem.
A fresh rebuild that idles rough? Granted, a cold engine will idle rough at first but usually a hit on the fuel and it'll smooth out on all cylinders. Ask to see paperwork on the
engine rebuild and compare mileage. If they "can't find" the paperwork, it isn't a fresh rebuild.
The front end framing will be rusted away. Bang your fist on the panel below the windshield and you'll likely hear rust falling inside. Do the same on the side panels above the drive
axle. You'll almost certainly find that the dash is rusted out at the center windshield bar.
The rust you see in the rear cargo bay is the air beams rusting out. Common. Difficult to fix properly. Maybe the beams have already been plated. If not, take a squirt bottle of
soapy water and see how many air leaks you can find on the beams and bags. If the bags are original, they'll be needing changed.
Tell the owner to get insurance on it so you can drive. Under no circumstances should you consider buying it without a good long test drive. That test drive should include
taking it to a top mechanic in the area to give it once over (at your expense, of course).
The headlight issues are common, and not difficult to fix, though that year had 24 volt bulbs originally. Probably was poorly converted to 12 volt bulbs. Not difficult to bring it up
to MC9 wiring.
So you have the money to buy the bus. Then what? Do you have the money and time to tear this bus to the frame and rebuild it from the ground up? You need to identify
how deep you are willing to get into this project.
While $4500 may seem like a cheap price for a whole bus, it could be the most expensive purchase you ever make. Tread cautiously on this one. You may find it makes more
sense to save the tax refund for another year and find a better shell.
If you doubt what I say about the rust, you should take a look through my project website. http://bus.gumpydog.com (http://bus.gumpydog.com) By the way, I started with an MC8, and there are
photos there of some of the rust on it. It actually was not as bad as the MC9 I ended up with.
craig
I do not want to throw cold water on your dreams. :'(
I have been there and done that my self a time or two bought a PD-4104 from a church for $2000.00 many years ago and it turned into a money pit after all was said and done and getting it roadworthy the dollars I spent I could have bought a later model coach in much better condition.
I noticed on ebay motors under buses there is a ex Greyhound MC-12 for $8,000.00 buy it now granted it has a lot of miles but it,s a better bus than a old MC-8 that might have unknown problems corrosion and other items or issues.
Note! I have no interest in the MC-12 as I own a GMC converted Buffalo P8M4905A.
You might want to look at a used converted coach that is finished it's a better deal money wise that trying to convert your self.
Call Sam Caylor at Caylor Supply 785-878-3405 and he can tell you what to look for with any MCI as he buy's MCI and parts them out.
Hope this helps don't rush into a old clunker just because it's cheap. ;D
jlv
The market is flooded with buses for sale, and most of them have rebuilt engines, yeah right.
Look at 20 buses before you open your wallet. Check for rust as others have mentioned. It's cheaper today to buy a older converted coach, hard work already done, lots of money saved and you can use it now instead of waiting.
I know nothing about MCI's as others here have posted that do know, but I still look at buses for sale across the nation from time to time. The prices are way down compared to when I bought our Eagle in 03.
But then again, it might be a diamond in the rough. Look close and deep!
Whatever you decide, spend wisely and have fun doing it. You only live once, just try to minimize the downers. ;)
I have an 8 and if I had it to do over again I'd hold out for a MC9. Lots more stainless in the 9's especially in the front area below the windshields. I had to replace all the front structure on mine, it was badly rusted and it is a southwest bus. Also under the back cap is a problem area. Push on the front stainless and I bet it is mushy all over.
That's the same bus I bought. Mine was a nothern Canadian bus (lot's of road salt).It has rust issues (plating the beams, rust in the bays, etc) I rolled it over a pit and pressure washed all the crap off of it. My thought was that it will never see winter driving or road salt again. I paid $4500 for mine. That one looks in a lot better shape than mine was.
Just my two cents
Greg
Don,
Welcome aboard. Sounds like you have already been bitten by the bug ;).
I agree with some of the others. If it appears that it has much rust, I would hold out for a MC9. BUT, if this one is in decent condition, and IF it doesn't have the rust issues, might be a decent buy. I would see how low you can get the guy to go, who is selling the bus. He has been sitting on it for a while now, so that is in your favor.
Sam Caylor would know what to look for on that bus. However, if somebody asks his advice, it is also a nice gesture to order from him too, when you need a part (and not haggle about the price). He is in the business of selling. Sam has always been good about his pricing, and I know I have said this before, but I will say it again (this is for everybody, Don, so don't worry it isn't directed at you). I happen to know that it irritates him to no end, when a busnut calls him up and asks if he has a part in stock. He tells them yes, and the price. Then if the busnut haggles about the price (which is already a great price), Sam told me, it makes it to where he doesn't even feel like selling it to the guy. So remember, everybody, Sam's prices have been good (from what I have seen), and he does want to help the busnuts out. So when he tells you a price, take it....(okay, sorry for the rabbit trail).
As far as asking advice about what to look for on the bus, I would try calling MCI tech support. Tell them what you are looking at, and ask for the guy that has been around a while, and somebody who would know the MC8. You should get a good answer.
God bless,
John
Thanks for all the responses, they are very helpful!
After reading the advice here, I went to have another look, & here is what I found:
1. No smoke on start-up.
2. Low beam bulbs were actually cracked (I think I witnessed one of them blowing out on the first visit).
3. There was one soft spot on the flooring where the plywood is rotted out, but everywhere else it didn't seem near as bad. There is a cracked window on the side with the bad flooring.
4. I didn't know what OTR meant so I don't know if it is working (over the road something or other?).
5. I banged on the panel below the windshield & over the drive axles and couldn't hear any rust falling down.
6. Most of the rust I saw appeared to be minor & only superficial, except for the spare tire area & the compartments on either side of there.
7. The rough sound on start-up does go away easy with the slightest touch on the gas to bring the idle up, & he showed me where there was a rod that you can adjust near the engine to adjust the throttle.
I made a short video of him driving as soon as he stated it up where you can hear the low & higher idle sounds. And I also took a lot of pictures of the exterior & the inside of all the compartments, etc. The video can be seen here:
Test Driving an MCI MC8 Crusader (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1JNFBC9ox8#lq-lq2-hq-vhq)
I will try to make the pics smaller so I can upload them somewhere too & then post some here.
Thanks again for all the advice :)
Don
Power steering sure works good! I obviously need to upgrade my steering pump! My bus had the steering upgraded to Sheppard style integral power steering up front, but they retained the 1000 psi steering pump.
Brian
Don,
It sounds like you are on the right track. With that added info, I would say, try to get it around 3.5 to 4K, if you can. Sounds like a good start.
I know we (here on the board), can talk down just about any bus. But you have to start somewhere, and you have gotten plenty of good advice.
BTW, it is OTR air. Over the road air conditioning. Meaning the bus air conditioning. If it works, I would say sounds like a good deal.
Where do you live? I might have missed it if you mentioned it.
God bless,
John
The air conditioning is not working right now. Apparently the reason they had to get the engine rebuilt was because a driver kept overriding the system that shuts off the air conditioning in order to cool the engine during a long trip to a very hot region of Washington State, & the engine fried as a result. He thinks they might not have hooked the air conditioning back up when they put in the new engine because everything was working fine prior to that & now nothing seems to work at all (blowers, etc.). The wires to the fan that vents the restroom were also disconnected & we could see it hanging down.
I'll try to post some pics in a bit.
Thanks again,
Don
The thing about OTR air is that even if it works, it doesn't always keep working, and it is such a huge system that it can be expensive to maintain. An awful lot of people take it out rather than fuss with it, myself included. For me, it would just be a bargaining point, I wouldn't actually care if it worked or not.
What I would care about is how long the suspension holds air, if the air brakes pass a DOT test and inspection, and if the engine is smoking or slobbering excessively. Along with all the rust issues you have been told about already.
Brian
Quote from: cody on April 14, 2010, 05:57:04 AM
check the date code on the tires, one of the worst things you can let a tire do is sit in the sun, they'll dryrot and become unsafe, you can figure in 300 to 500 per tire to replace them,
Check truck stops, school districts, bus companies etc -- there is no shortage of good used tires for sale, sometimes these folks are almost giving them away.
Don't be afraid to bargain, either.
Thanks again. Here is a link to the pics I took yesterday:
http://s962.photobucket.com/albums/ae105/ToppDog/MC8/ (http://s962.photobucket.com/albums/ae105/ToppDog/MC8/)
Oh yeah, I live in the Seattle area... forgot to answer that :)
The bus apparently was a Grey Lines Tour Bus in the Seattle area, & then went up with Grey lines & was in Seward, Alaska, before being bought by the current owners & brought back down to Seattle. The current owners never knew the actual mileage. The driver said the hub gauge reads 300,000 plus, but that the hub gauge could have been put there anytime. Maybe the pics will reveal something I missed. I mainly noticed the rust & damage in the spare tire area, where it also looks like it has been taken over a curb or two & pushed the floor up on the drivers side. Not by much, but enough to make opening that compartment a little tougher.
Quote from: ToppDog on April 15, 2010, 12:23:48 PM
The air conditioning is not working right now. Apparently the reason they had to get the engine rebuilt was because a driver kept overriding the system that shuts off the air conditioning in order to cool the engine during a long trip to a very hot region of Washington State, & the engine fried as a result. He thinks they might not have hooked the air conditioning back up when they put in the new engine because everything was working fine prior to that & now nothing seems to work at all (blowers, etc.). The wires to the fan that vents the restroom were also disconnected & we could see it hanging down.
I don't understand what he's talking about. I'm unaware of any system that shuts off the A/C to cool the engine. The A/C compressor is run off the engine crank shaft. The fans are
electric. Obviously, shutting off the A/C will reduce the horsepower and may reduce the load on the engine, and hence, may allow it to not run as hot. But I know of know system that does
that automatically or could be overridden.
I'm not sure I'd trust everything this guy is telling you. I think he has a vested interest in selling you a bus.
After viewing you PB album, I've seen a lot worse. It really doesn't look that bad, but picutres can be deceiving.
Take a hard look at the major mechanicals. Like others have said, engine, tranny and the condition of the brakes. It costs and arm and a leg to replace that stuff. If the drums are too far gone, that's some big money. These need to be looked at by a certified bus mechanic or bus nut. People usually get rid of something because it would cost some serious money to keep it in service.
I'm not trying to disuade you at all. Buses are neat but also can be expensive.
Anything from a damp climate needs to be disected with a fine tooth comb.
I hope it works out for whatever you decide, really I do!
Paul
Well, I looked at all your photos. The body of this bus is surprisingly in good condition. However, there are some serious water leakage issues inside and I can pretty much guarantee that you will have
rust issues in the wall framing, so plan for that. Even if you don't hear rust falling, it's gonna be bad. Also, because it's an MC8, you will have problems in the front end framing, too. May not be a priority
but the rust will be there. But, the body looks too be in pretty decent condition. Minor rust in the suspension, but looking at the rear bay photos, there will be considerable rust on the tops of the air
beams. If they are not leaking now, they will eventually.
Any MCI bus of that era will have air beams leaking if not sooner then later. Add the roughly $1600 for the conversion to eliminate the bags less your labor. My 7 lived it's life in the Phoenix area and I had a rear beam start leaking. I own my own welding shop and did a temp fix but looking long term I did the conversion. Wise decision. If you have the ability to do the conversion then add that to your expenses some day. I bought my bus blindly but also had the resources, shop, and friends with knowledge that eliminated a bunch of my concerns. I couldn't even buy all the stuff in my bus for what I gave for it and it was all basically new. You will get an overwhelming amount of advise here. The price they are asking is not much and probably valued right. All the advise you are getting is how much more it could and will cost you down the road. If you have the ability to do much of the labor then it's a no brainer. If you don't have that and the resources to handle such a job then you may want to look in a different direction. You have to admire those that build ground up busses but they have been around the block for years and want more than to save a buck. If all you want is something to throw an air mattress and a portapotty into and camp out 20 miles away or you want to full time in makes a big difference.
I think from looking at your photos this is a pretty clean bus. I'd guess the hub odometer might have been replaced when (if) the engine was rebuilt so that means its about half used up. Tires look good and like a matched set; thats a plus. Like Craig said you may find some rust issues, but this bus looks nice and straight and the rust issues I would say are probably manageable. But if its leaking that really sucks because unless you find the leaks you're going to end up with a moldy/mildew smelling coach.
The work involved in taking it from this stage to a useable conversion is probably 10x what you are currently thinking. I have a buddy who is converting an Eagle here at my shop and what he thought would be a 10 month project is going to be considerably more than that I think. Unless you're going to hire substantial portions of the work done. I agree with other posts here, you might want to wait and find something already done or partially done. These things can literally eat you alive financially or they can treat you pretty well and just nickel and dime you all your life.
Still it looks pretty safe to me and aside from some water leaks I think you've discovered a pretty darn nice MC-8.
Fred
I'm no expert but this bus looks very nice, all the rust I saw in the baggage bays looked like just surface rust. The electric box looked like it was almost new. I've seen a lot worse but the first thing you need to do is find a bus mechanic and have him go through this bus. The owner needs to get it insured so you can take it out and get her good and hot, then take an oil sample while its hot. Then have him pull the wheels and check everything, bearings, air system, air bags, and the engine. This will cost you a few hundred dollars but when he's done you will know what needs to be fixed and be able to estimate how much it will cost to fix. Plus you will be able to negotiate a better price based on what the mechanic finds. A good bus mechanic will know what he's looking for and if he says it's a keeper then get it, If he says walk away then run.
WVaNative
I confess that I don't understand buying a bus for $4K when for three times that you could buy a converted bus with a known history and usable now. That's actually exactly what i did. You lose the personal touch of stripping it and starting from scratch, on the other hand you don't need to strip it and start from scratch... Just a contrarian view. You can only lose money on a bus conversion, the comment about figuring the cost of doing the conversion at 10X what you think it might be rings a little true, and I would frankly wilt at the timeframe that many take to do all the work.
I restore old race cars for people, not the kind that are worth a million bucks. My honest advice is usually that if you start with a free, complete running race car, by the time I get it safe, fast, pretty, and right - it will cost about twice what it's worth. In other words, it has to be a labour of love...
Brian
Well,I noticed on the rear engine compartment access doors that some one has installed some aftermarket louvers.
I bet this old bus has a serious engine/radiators cooling problem.
A- Radiators tubes are clogged with rust and scale need to be reccored and or cleaned.
B-Seals around the two radiators are missing so the cooling air for the radiators is going around the outside of the radiators and not through the core.
Lot of issues you need to look at before money changes hands good luck!
jlv
Brian is right, the cost of building or buying a bus conversion is an example of how to loose money and lots of it, you have to approach it from the idea that the cost gets repaid in other ways, for some it's the value of getting away with family, for some it may be the value of getting away from family lol, for many the love of just traveling and meeting new people is enough to make the whole adventure worthwhile, I even know of one family with a bus that hits small campgrounds and the lady of the bus sits outside and drinks Boones Farm wine out of cut crystal stemware while her hubby fishes lol, each person has there own reason for buying and using a bus and there are all the right reasons as long as it works for them but to think that a person can recoup their money at some time down the road is probably not going to happen, it's a personal thing that each person has to justify for themselves, but for us it's a way of creating memories that are worth far more than the bus cost.
Thanks guys, I really appreciate all the advice. I wasn't thinking about looking at conversions because I have some specific floorplan ideas & I'd be afraid of having to redo it all. If I do this it will take me many years I'm sure. My son is almost 4, & I figured it could be a long term project we could work on together. I'm just scared to take the next step, lol.
Fear can be a good thing sometimes. You need to be careful when buying a bus. The general rule is to not buy the first bus you look at. But to look at a lot of buses and as you keep looking you will start to see things you would have missed before as you learn what your doing. We sometime let our emotions get the best of us when we see these old girls and that can cost you a lot down the road. The best thing you can do is get a good mechanic to go over any bus you are thinking of buying. If the mechanic says it might be a good one then ask the owner to insure it so you can test drive it. And if the owner will not insure the bus so you can take it out with the mechanic for a test run you will have to make a decision on what you want to do.
WVaNative
There is no need to make a owner buy insurance for you to test drive read your policy your covered for a test drive never saw a policy where you were not covered for 14 days in another vehicle.
ToppDog you are looking at buying a 32 year bus no inspection is going to find everything wrong it is like buying a house start with a good foundation, drivetrain engine, transmission, differential, and brakes check the radiator cores by seeing if the fins are loose check the engine rails for breakage and if you like the bus buy it and enjoy.
Owning a Eagle rust doesn't mean much to us we just repair it and go on with bussines.Buses are like wife's you take one for better or worse understand buses are easier to get rid of than a wife you can sell those for scrap or give it away
good luck on your venture
Interesting... Would that also apply to a mechanic I wonder. I don't have a CDL to test drive it as is. I wonder if that would still apply if I had a CDL permit.
Lets put it another way. Where is the bus and can you give me their phone number? For that price I would take a chance.....
Unless you really have a strong desire/reason for fully converting for yourself, and have a shop and skills to do it rather shortly, or dont mind jumping into steel tenting I recommend the already converted in a good shell since you have a 4-year old.
Important thing is to get to using it as soon as possible! Advice i received here and from George Meyer's when I was contemplating like yourself.
Even if you have to hang sheets for walls and strap in a porta potty and an air mattress.
There will be no shortage of things to work on with your son and you can go have some fun sooner. Plus you will most likely spend less overall ;) And you can also convert it later if you desire.
Do it your way safely :)
Everyone on this BB have their own priorites and what works for them may or may not work for you. Read all the replies and decide which apply to your situation. One thing that I think you will find that all agree on is have it inspected efore purchasing it. Even if the inspection finds a few things, you will at least know what lies ahead. Also, as already mentioned, there will always things pop up that were not found in an inspection. Good Luck. Jack
Well, the day before I was going to have a mechanic inspect it, someone drove up from Portland & snatched it up after looking it over for 20 min. :'( So, I think I'm going to take the advice you guys gave & hold out for an MC9 or an MC12. There seems to be a lot more of them around for parts etc. I did like the looks of that 8 though... ;D
Don't write of prevost XL in the 80's vintage...lots under 15 for seated coach...My understanding you Don't need a cdl for a bus used as a RV as long as you don't get paid to drive it..Indiana rules...I have never been challenged In any other state,an yes I have been stopped and inspected..Happy bussing
Get the magazine, even if your not real serious. you will be more ready when you find that deal. And it'll be the highlight of your month :), that is not family that is :o
Don,
That might be the greatest bargain ever. Very few here can make that determination. Actually, that's because it takes TWO. First get it to a DD dealer and have it run on a dyno and examined by an experienced TWO CYCLE PROFESSIONAL having all the diagnostics at his/her disposal. Second, get it to a charter bus garage to have the chassis evaluated by a professional. $3-400 for the DD guy and $2-300 for the one with bus creds. are numbers I have heard and all consider that very smart money spent. The people here should be able to clue you on how much to expect in charges and also of paramount import is where you have the work done and by whom. Give your location and they will supply directions.
Almost everyone here is trying to tell you that the MCI8 is an inferior platform. They are suggesting a 9 or 12 will cost a similar amt and be superior from a construction standpoint. Also consider that the availability of spares/used parts is an issue. For my money a good converted 8 would be a good choice if all was well but when you consider the prices today doing your own conversion on an old platform isn't a good idea. Under the best of conditions you can expect to only recover a fraction of the actual "equip costs" for a conversion and that is quite the sharp stick in the eye for a labor of love done correctly. Gumpy is the absolute authority on this and you MUST visit his sight and simply read about the coming adventure. He has done it all and thoroughly documented every step in his site. .BUT, you will be supported and advised through the entire life of your adventure by these folks regardless of your decisions.
My warmest wishes to you on a happy and fullfilling adventure,
Your friend,
John
Thanks a bunch! I agree. There seem to be a ton of 9's out there, & spending time here & reading up on other sites/books is teaching me a lot. I'll know a lot more by the time I'm able to seriously consider buying that first bus. ;)
You know how when you're thinking of buying a new car, then all the sudden all you see is tons of that car on the road? Well, I've been seeing a lot of buses lately. ;D
Quote from: luvrbus on April 16, 2010, 07:27:55 PM
There is no need to make a owner buy insurance for you to test drive read your policy your covered for a test drive never saw a policy where you were not covered for 14 days in another vehicle.
On my policy I am covered for at least 14 days if I buy a car. Lucky I asked about motorhomes because I found out that motorhomes are not covered unless I specifically buy coverage. No grace period. I had to scramble to get my bus covered by insurance just a few days before I was flying out to pick it up.
I assume I am covered for test drives of motorhomes, but I don't really know.
Personally, the simple elegance of an eagle easing into a park with the big detroit rumbling is enough to make me want to relive my wedding night, but a lot of people prefer MCI or other buses, I like iggles lol. Ive had kids look up at me at stop signs and ask if there was anyone famous onboard, I always quietly tell them it's the Swedish Bikini Team and watch as they try to peer into the windows lol. Life is good lol.